Do It Yourself

Has anyone ever looked at, or used these On Semi parts? Look interesting to me. (Mouser part numbers below): 863-MPSW56RLRAG 863-MPSA56RLRAG 863-MPSW06RLRAG 863-MPSA06RLRAG The "W" devices are rated to 1W @ 25C in free air.

Time to make some cables. I want to cover them in the soft nylon stuff. What sizes would I need for the following: 1) 4-conductor 22 or 24 AWG braid 2) Over regular Mogami Thanks!

So my mostly completed Beta 22 arrives tomorrow and I'm taking the day off to see if I can get her finished. What does that mean to you lot I hear you say? Funny you should ask.. I'll need all hands on deck guiding me through the precarious operation to bring life to my baby. I'm still not sure what's connected and what's not or how much work is left to do so I'll need some guidance on how not to blow it up Stay tuned... tomorrow will bring pics and questions

just finished one of these at school. Soldering, Learn how to Solder Kit worked after the first try. no solder bridges. no bad contacts. no cold solders. gentleman who runs the e.e. lab guided me and got me started and said that i could take on a project that has a printed circuit board. as with all else, he said i will learn good practices as i make mistakes. i have started looking into a speaker rig. the drivers are fostex 206e (96db efficiency) so i figured a couple of watts will suffice. the listening volumes will be fairly low. for the 206e drivers, this amp seems to be thrown around on diyaudio a lot for reasons of synergy or what have you. Zen Triode…

For the moment I have the beta and the EHHA amps, two boards each but only one Sigma. Until I get another sigma they are going to share. The sigma has four outputs, enough for the boards. Now, if I want to run both amps together is there any reason not to? I can switch on the heaters before the amps to warm up the EHHA. Any problems so far? Not ideal but I'm not worried about ideal at this point, just functionality. There's also the option of running the sigma output pairs through switches to turn one or the other pair off. Any thoughts on the best and safest way to do this or is what I suggested first fine?

I'd like to make an xlr (2 x 3-pin) to 1/4" female adaptor cable for use with my 4-channel balanced beta22. This is so I can try some headphones without having to re-terminate them first. Is it going to be safe to wire : left xlr pin2 signal to tip right xlr pin2 signal to ring left and right pin3 signals to shaft ?

Hallo Thar, I was just wondering whether you guys think it would be worth it to build a Sigma 11 PSU for my M3 (currently I have teh steps). I know that the Sig11 can supply more current and has tighter regulation, but would it make an audible difference?

I forgot to order the fusedrawer for a DD12.9111.1111 shurter IEC inlet. The part number I'm looking for is 4301.1405 Does anyone have one of these fusedrawers they don't need right now? If not is anyone placing an order with mouser soon that could order this one for me? The mouser part number is: 693-4301.1405 Thanks in advance, Manuel

Am I the only one to whom this is new? Parts Connexion

I have a strange question. I'm running to an issue paralleling four 2SK170/2SJ74 JFETs where the noise from the degeneration resistors is something I'd like to overcome. I'm wondering if anyone knows of a scheme where at most a single sources resistor is used (i.e. all the sources are tied together before this) and some sort of a a servo arrangement is used. I'm looking for a way to avoid super tightly matched devices as well. I understand the scheme used in the Xono and say the Vendetta phonostages, as well as a number of the Borbely designs, but these aren't exactly what I want. Feedback is acceptable as well.

PM me for Paypal account details Hello all I have discussed the idea of honouring Alex Cavalli aka runeight on the DIY forum with a few members and there seems to be general consensus that this is a just cause. Who is Alex Cavalli? He is many things; but for many of us he is an inovator of ingenious design and he has given selflessly of himself for the past decade. Here is a link to his website where you can see a few of his designs that have come to fruition and many have the pleasure of owning. Why now? Well simply put, in a recent conversation I had with him it became clear that he needed better headphones and I got to thinking that this would be one…

For what is to become the ultimate headphone stand... http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/headstand1.jpg http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/headstand2.jpg I'm looking for more of the 2 piece tube clamps pictured. 1.5 inch diameter. These have to be a stock item somewhere, i just can't find out where.

Hello Board Im working on a shitty little amp that assuming the stars and plannets are in alignment will be at canjam. at the moment, not 1 part has been soldered but the casework is done and being painted.... Now that I have cursed my project by admitting that it exists: The case (a cheap "BUD box") that I am painting with hammer-tone paint, because it will (hopefully) mask some of my horrific screwups with the drill and could not ever look even close to as bad as a naked BUD box. I painted one corner of the top a little thicker than the rest, should I worry? Im going back for coat #2 in about 45 min... Thanks Ari

I've seen posts here and there commenting on the difficulty of recabling the K1000, and it's definitely not something a novice DIYer should attempt, but I think most of the fear and confusion over recabling them comes from their unusual construction and lack of information regarding safe disassembly. I hope this guide will help clear up the process for advanced DIYers who are already comfortable recabling normal headphones, but wary about working on the K1000. A few notes before I begin... You should have your cable already built and ready to go before starting disassembly, so the K1000 is not left in a partially disassembled state, and complete the work on one ears…

I started this chat for us general wood monkeys in the hope of getting some good tips on finishing wood. I've managed to get my stuff to a decent level of smoothness and nicely sanded without too many blemishes but some woods have a honking big and deep grain. What is a good method of filling grain to get a very smooth surface without the filler looking artificial? I've tried wetting the wood to raise the grain and smooth it down, then using wet sanding to help fill the grain with it's own sawdust. That's not too bad on the finer grain woods, the coarser stuff is still problematic. I tried some various generic wood fillers with little success, so any hints as to what i…

I recently sold my Stello DP200 to laxx, and upon taking delivery, he told me that there is a problem: the headphone jack does not work. He tells me that he feels no physical resistance when plugging the headphones in, and there is no volume. The Stello is supposed to mute the pre-amp outs when headphones are plugged in, but laxx tells me that even with phones plugged in, the pre-amps still work. My first thought is that in the shipping process, the headphone jack became dislodged from the chassis such that it no longer grips the headphone plug completely. Does this sound plausible?

Hey guys, I ran the schematic of my moth to dsavistk and he offered some recommendations for a couple of places to upgrade the caps. Looking for 33uF 450V high quality cap, film for sure. They are cathode bypass caps. Right now there is a solen polypropylene in there, the only thing I could find which may be an improvement is the Obbligato film in oil cap, they have a 30uf and 70uF 630v. All of the really really nice film caps are around the 250v range, which I think might be risky in my amp as the schematic says for 450v, but the actual amount of voltage across that point is probably closer to 250. Also looking for a 220uF 500v cap upgrade as well that I beli…

a couple cool projects have popped up recently, one by Papa himself and one by John Curl's number one fan, Grey: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=120673 http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1484933#post1484933 Just figured someone around here might be interested!

I was looking around for something to bling my tubes around the base on the casework and found a nice and cheap way to do it for those little amps like the Starving student and CTH, EHHA and others with wee tubes. Looking around in Lowes hardware stores I found these solid brass Brainerd door viewers: If you unscrew the ends you end up with a pair of brass surrounds. One end fits the CTH and Ehha size tubes and the other fits the Starving student tubes so you'll need to buy two viewers to get a matching pair @ $7 or so each. When added to the case, you get this nice bling surround. They are pretty deep as you can see so you may need to trim them down depe…

My DAC has only one dual RCA output. I would like to use it with both of my speakers and headphones amp (but not at the same time), and don't want to disconnect and reconnect the RCA cables. If I add another dual RCA output by connecting them parallel to the existing RCA output. Would it be any problem?

So the optical in on my north star broke. The little plastic piece that swings up when you plug in the optical cable snapped off at the NYC Meet and I can't find it. So now when I plug in an optical cable, there's a lot of play in the jack. It works, but the cable can come loose very easily. What a stupid design. Has anyone had this problem before? Any suggestions how to fix it? In the alternative, if I decide to use the Coax input on the north star, I'd need something like the M-Audio transit to convert the optical out from my iMac, correct?

It occurred to me a while back that my rig has gotten to a point that in terms of headphone amps it'll be pretty damn hard to beat what I have and that continuing to build more headphone amps is probably pretty silly. Where does that leave me? cue JBLoudG20 and Reks Speakers! Now I was talking with Pete the other day about basic speaker amp projects, specifically the design set forward in the boozhound labs howto pages. I had been looking at that project for a long time and had gathered about half the parts that I needed to complete the build but I was thinking of making some changes (different rectifier and input tubes) and solicited Pete's advice to make sure I did…

This might be of interest to some here: Audio Origami - ReWires I will try this project sometime in the next two months or so, after I have played enough with the Thorens I just got to start my 1st vinyl rig. Just wanted to throw this out there for those of you who are itching to try something new. I have also read up on the DIY Altmann TT, but I'm guessing that's been discussed here before: The Altmann DIY Turntable And then there is the HDD mixing turntable: HDDJ: Turning an old hard disk drive into a rotary input device Well, plenty of projects to choose from!

I'd appreciate some advice here. My mini-dacs' xlr output volume is too high for comfortable listening. I intend to make use of attenuators/voltage dividers of type U (shown below) to manage the volume to a comfortable level. That I've seen here I've done some testing and the value of resistance that works best for me is an attenuation of 30dB (68K ohm on both pin 2 and 3 (the R1 positions)). The value of resistance I measure between pin 2 and 3 on my mini-dac when it's unpowered is 4450 ohm. I am presuming this is the source impedance and should be matched by the shunt resistance (shown as R2). My 4-channel rockhopper beta22 is fitted with two dact CT2 atten…

Hey guys, I need to put together a wallwart for a project I'm working on. Is there any place that sells empty wallwarts you can put your own traffo in? I'm looking to get a 24-36vac center-tapped output. Any suggestions on a plug with three contacts to use for it, also? -edit- found an empty shell and a suitable traffo at jameco. Any ideas on a plug?