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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/16/2020 in Posts
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4 points
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Not difficult to recable the L3000 at all. Remove the earpads, screws (4 screws holding the earcups and another 3 holding the driver assembly in place), and you should get to the driver. I suggest a high quality silver cable to enhance the resolution, open up the soundstage, and tighten up the bass impact. I recabled my old pair with Moon SIlver Dragon Gen 1 but this was probably around 7 - 8 years ago before I sold it to a local friend. I recently recabled my 3000ANV with the left over SIlver Dragon and the work was not difficult at all. If you are handy with soldering iron, it can be done ..... just take your time and be careful. Take pictures before and after removing the driver holder assembly...you want to line up everything the same way. Here are some pics of my W3000ANV that I recabled last week. The internals are more or less the same as the W2002 & L3000. You can do it. While at it, get them reterminate with a 4.4 mm balanced connector. The L3000 isn't that difficult to drive and many top end DAPs of today can do wonder with these headphones. Plus, they do sound considerably better driving from a a balanced amp. They sounded spectacular out of my Balanced Gilmore Reference amp at that time.4 points
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Well it all depends on the glue. There is good glue and then there is not so good glue. Your welcome. Feel free to ask me any time with your technical questions.3 points
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1. Measure the diameter of the plug at the end of the cable. 2. Purchase appropriate diameter 6:1 heat shrink - https://www.cableorganizer.com/heat-shrink/heat-shrink6.htm - bonus, this stuff is adhesive lined. 3. See if a 2" section will cover and reinforce what you need, including grabbing onto the cable split housing so the whole thing can act as a strain relief for the worn cable section. My guess is if you do something like that, for around $30 (assuming some shipping) you'd have a nearly stock looking setup that'll last a long time if not abused. If nothing else, it'll buy you some time to figure out the long term recabling plan.3 points
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2 points
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I would terminate with a 4-pin XLR myself. You can always build a 4-pin XLR->1/4" phono adapter cable and use it with unbalanced amps, which is what I do with my DynaFET. I don't use portable amps anymore though, so the 4.4mm connector isn't useful for me. Plus, they are difficult to find, particularly a good chassis jack.2 points
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The Ocean - Phanerozoic II: Mesozoic | Cenozoic (weird title, decent music)2 points
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I, too, have re-terminated my headphones with 4-pin XLR and built a 4-pin XLR to TRS adaptor cable. Additionally, I replace the female TRS socket with 4-pin XLR on single-ended amp when I can. To me, the primary benefit of a 4-pin XLR connector for single-ended amp is to avoid the brief shorting of output when plugging and unplugging headphones with TRS connectors.1 point
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1 point
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@mikeymad, @cetoole and I were planning on having a re-cabling + drinking party during a coinciding staycation week after next. I'm just sayin'...1 point
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I was once a member of a team 4 pin XLR, but earlier this year I reterminated all of my headphones from 4 pin balanced to 4.4 mm balanced. Many top end DAPs are approaching a really good desktop system hence my suggestion plus the L3000 is super easy to drive. You can always make an adapter going from 4.4 mm back to 4 pin XLR or whatever. Furutech makes really good 4.4 mm plugs and Moon audio make a high quality male and female 4.4 mm as well...same can be said for Eidolic. I think you guys will think the same once you give a 4.4 mm balanced a try. Even my HD800 is reterminated with a 4.4mm Furutech balanced jack. Sony NW-WM1A DAP actually do a good job driving the HD800.1 point
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Yes, I have done the same for all headphones with a "detachable" cable. I think it is more practical to terminate it on a XLR-4 and then use an adapter if necessary to TSR 1/4" . By the way, now in large stores such as "Home Depot" they sell a cable covered with cotton in many different colors for lamps and decoration. This cotton coating can be great if you want to keep the original look of the new cable.1 point
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Many thanks - This is great advice. Sounds like I got a plan. To your point - at least get me further down the road for a few quid.1 point
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^^ Used to be for me too, but I bought a small multi-function travel router/range extender on sale, and I use that now with the Pecan Pi or my Ropieee box.....gives better reception too than standard Pi with no dongle.1 point
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I will keep an eye on the web site to see if they ever implement wi-fi connectivity. Ethernet-only is a non-starter for me.1 point
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Forgot to post this yesterday - had a good day doing old-school manual labor after spending a good part of Friday helping my neighbor clear a small maple tree that fell over in a wind storm Thursday. They're selling the house in 10 days and didn't want the tree or debris to cause any issues with the sale. So yesterday I set out splitting a bunch of it. It's funny. The older I get the more I enjoy manual labor. I hated splitting wood when I was younger. Then it was time for Lily and I to make a cake for Andrew's socially-distant, outdoor-5-months-late birthday party that we'll host today with 5 of his buddies. Vanilla tie-dyed cake (pic of that after slicing later today) with chocolate buttercream frosting. Outdoor theater screen and projector test complete. I picked up a cheap Onkyo receiver off CL and will use an old 5.1 Cambridge Soundworks system for the noise. Should be fun and the total investment was less than $200 which seems insane.1 point
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