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Showing content with the highest reputation on 01/08/2018 in all areas
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first crack at stroganoff. missed slightly on some underlying flavors (pinch too much brandy and dijon), otherwise loved it and inhaled my helping and the wife’s leftover sirloin.7 points
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2 points
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I used thruhole ver in previous build and I'm sure I'm gonna use smt version next time........2 points
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Running the Soekris dam1021 I just received through its course. This one is the V4, 0.05% resistor version I am building for a friend. I got the 0.01%/0.02% version myself which I will be building for my son. Fairly straight forward to get it up and running after reading the information on the DIYAUDIO thread and on the excellent Hifiduino site. Using +/-10VDC supply (PSU of the original Wire headphone amp, LM317/LM337 based) and simplest SPDIF connection. The 10K pot is a log pot I happen to have so it's a bit wonky when adjusting volume. Buffered balanced out to the SS Dynalo. Now I am kicking myself for not getting a few of Kevin's diamond buffer boards when these was a GB.2 points
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Well today went a lot better. The little 400W battery pack still went from FL (full) to LO as soon as I connected it (which is inexplicable, because it's not measuring the car battery, it's measuring itself), so I called a local tow guy and told him I'm in the parking garage, so he can't bring his truck, and he actually seemed to brighten up at the prospect, and when he showed up, he showed up in a cab with his family, and he pulled out a battery pack that wasn't that much bigger than mine...alright, it "wasn't that much bigger" in the same way that a porn cock "isn't that much bigger" than mine (they are*), but it was rated at 1200 Watts and started her...er...I mean, my car right up. Hey, so now I had a way to warm the battery up and charge it! So I drove around for about an hour (including nervously stopping in the middle, briefly), and I will check on it again in the morning. *...or so I hear...blah blah blah...that's what she said...2 points
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2 points
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That is just too funny. This thread has had a lot of impact on the design of those headphones...perhaps we should ask for a consultant credit?2 points
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Yep - you might mount D1 on the separate board and use it's legs for connection to the main pcb1 point
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Maybe something like this https://plugable.com/2011/07/12/installing-a-usb-serial-adapter-on-mac-os-x/ Not sure if monoprice has anything1 point
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1 point
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1 point
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SMT only. Yep, the serial port is a challenge. There are USB-to-serial adapters on ebay for cheap though; I've used those successfully in the past.1 point
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( 2 channels x (2x Output stage current + 10mA for input stage )*sqrt2*360VAC + 4x 6.3VAC*1.5A ) * some_factor depending on how much overkill ~ 100VA * some_factor I usually end up using a factor somewhere above 2 and close to 31 point
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I think you meant the "50R" resistor in series with the 50R trim pot in the plate CCA. If so, yes, adjust the 50R trim pot so there is 1V drop across the 50R resistor will set the CCS current at 20mA. I run mine between 18mA - 20mA at different time. I know there are others that run as high as 25mA. Make sure you have plenty of heatsink - the BH runs much hotter than the Grounded Grid does.1 point
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Yes - For most applications I'd use just the center three pins. Yes - It took a bit of thinking to make the two sot23's fit.1 point
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Formulas for shielding effectiveness here http://mumetal.co.uk/ . They also do a standard range of mumetal deep drawn and hydrogen annealed transformer cans.1 point
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The B- is way higher than the cathode to heater level so it is impossible to separate them.1 point
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1 point
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