Pars

Odyssey Stratos should be doable for under $700; check Audiogon and ebay. You should be able to get the balance of the 20 year warranty. I've had mine for 5 years at least. One of these has survived Reks for a few months so far, minus a blown fuse incident...

Yes. A no brainer to put it in.

Those look nice Smeggy. I'd like to hear some orthos sometime.

Balanced uses essentially a 4-channel amplifier to deliver stereo. Each driver is sent a non-inverted signal (L/R +) and an inverted signal (L/R -) for a push-pull of the audio signal. The cabling or more importantly the connectors are not really standardized, though I would guess that Headroom has done the most in this area. Common connectors are a pair of 3-pin XLRs (1 per channel), or a 4-pin XLR. Less common would be (2) 1/4" TRS plugs. Most people do something like recable (or reterminate if the cans already have 4 wires) with a pair of 3-pin XLRs, and then build adapters like a pair of female 3-pin XLRs to a single 4-pin XLR in order to ensure compatibility.

650s on late romantic symphonic (Mahler, etc.) just blow. Balanced out of a Dynahi even. Meh. This impression from a meet, but I listened multiple times (source SCD-1) and my opinion didn't change.

Counterpoint SA3000 (2 of them; tube, good phono stage) AudiogoN ForSale: Counterpoint SA-3000 Forte F-44 (SS; think Threshold; has remote) http://www.audiogon.com/cgi-bin/cls.pl?preatran&1232243569&/Forte-F-44- Coda (SS; no remote; also think Threshold) AudiogoN ForSale: Coda FET Preamplifier 02 Audible Illusions 2B (tube, no remote, asking too much) AudiogoN ForSale: Audible Illusions Modulus 2B

Well, you can start with the Test the amp section of Step-by-Step Assembly Guide. Also, I hope you did the Test the power supply portion of this as well. Given the state of the ground opamp, did you use C6? Also, measure the DC offset between IG and OG... should be 0mV or very close. If so, then check the L and R DC offset (L -> OG and R -> OG). Also sounds like you may have the LED In backwards as well. And I didn't quite get what you meant by this:

No shit. Same here, though we just have TV and internet service thru them. I found out the jackasses had us wired out at the box on a splitter off a port; musta done that when they added a neighbor and had run out of line ports. Not sure if they have fixed it despite promising to several times. Calling them about every 6 months has proven effective though, with dropped hints of Dish Net, etc. We got internet (std. speed, not the intro) for $20 a month for 6 months and they dropped the TV price also. Can;t get DSL (in a burb of Chicago!) as we are too far from the CO, and that would be AT&T anyhow

Ouch!! The dot corresponding to neutral, or to keep the windings in phase?

Ahh, thanks. I always put the dots the same way for instance if wiring a pair of 110V primaries in parallel. I wasn't aware of a meaning for the dot, so I'll keep that in mind.

Back before they had the wider neutral prong, present now even on two-wire plugs, common practice was to reverse the plug and leave it where it resulted in lowest noise. If you can try that on the receiver, it might help. As far as I know, transformers such as the one inside the Denon do not designate one of the primary leads as neutral and the other as hot, so it is somewhat arbitrary in how they are hooked up. At least in the transformer wiring diagrams I have seen, one side isn't designated as Hot, etc. (Of course, if this is wrong, someone please correct me ).

Agreed. I just don't get the thought process...

And then print those 76 print jobs as pdfs, then combine them. Voila, single print job...

Oh, much! Welcome to HeadCase!

Yes, but hopefully they put the money inside? Better than some vendors with a $300 case on a $500 $25 unit.

Time to resurrect this thread. The shit still sucks, and its only Dec. 1st; way too early to start this crap again!

Thanks Marc. I wouldn't need to parallel the secondaries, but have dual supplies, so one secondary per supply (channel). I may just use a 102VA Hammond 186F120 instead. Regarding the transformer you are having problems with: have you tried reversing one set of secondary connections? If that doesn't do it, I don't know. Could be a defect, but I'm not the most knowledgeable on transformers either.

I took another look, and also checked some of the other suppliers you recommended Marc. DIYGene has a 100VA R-core, and one of the secondary choices is: R80-34 (30-20-0-20-30)X2(1A).0-15 X2(1A).0-9 (1A) I would guess that the 30-20-0-20-30 windings would work as 60V windings from the ends? Or am I mistaken? Anything I would need to be concerned about as far as ground for the preamp goes, etc? I don't think so but thought I'd check. Also, Marc, was it your impression that these R-core trannys that you have used are light on their specification (i.e., a 50VA isn't really 50VA, etc.) I got a bit confused reading your impressions of these. Thanks, Chris

Happy Birthday!

Happy Birthday!

I got an email today from partsconnexion regarding their November sale, and they indicated that Zapfilters are back in stock at $214. They should be on sale at least until the 30th at 15% off.

happy birthday Aura!

How many you need?

Modified sigma22 kit from glassjar for morphsci's Audio Alchemy HPA1.0... Moar power be like good, ya know?

Look at Sonic Craft High-End DIY Audio Parts. They have the C series as well as the AC and Std. If you could use a K series (VK, etc.) that is what I would get, but it doesn't look like there is anything close to what you need. I assume you also checked Michael Percy Audio?