Mister X

Nice X2. Pearl Izumi Thermal Arm Warmers on chainlove for the next 15 minutes or so....

Thanks. Hope you all had a nice day.

Happy Birthday.

That was the same concern I had with that one. http://www.potteryba...ask-table-lamp/ Works quite well with a 60 watt (equivalent) led bulb and it's easy to re-adjust when needed. Pretty retro though...

Buy.com has the Sennheiser HD228s for $31.95 with free shipping. http://www.buy.com/p.../210692707.html

The Ohmite C series is pretty close to what you have described but they have a spring loaded, cam lockable, clip deal. http://www.ohmite.com/catalog/pdf/c-sink.pdf Digi-Key # C247-025-1AE-ND ( http://search.digikey.com/scripts/dksearch/dksus.dll?vendor=0&keywords=C247-025-1AE-ND )

How about the Ohmite R series? http://www.ohmite.com/catalog/pdf/f-r-sink.pdf or Mouser page 2078 http://www.mouser.com/catalog/catalogUSD/644/2078.pdf

Mute has me scratching my head as well. The datasheet sez: Must be one of those "A bit more work to do" things?

A "McDonalds play pen" is a fitting description for either of the first two O2 threads in the DIY section at Head-fi. Give the 3rd one a week and I'm sure it will be the same...........

http://www.frontpanelexpress.com/fpd-doc/en/fpd_rawmaterials_alumnium_powdercoating.htm (the edges will be black if you choose to have the panel powder coated)

Nope. Oh and FWIW SuperBiiz has a slightly better deal on the Crucial drive then Newegg but the only one they still have in stock comes with a "transfer kit" http://www.superbiiz.com/detail.php?name=CT064CCA Add coupon code RUN4LIFE to get $10 off

Fix the wires, replace the swiveling cap and it should be good to go. (the one broken wire is a signal input not a ground)

Even though the 4th one works rather well, after RMAing a Force 3 drive 3 times I would suggest you stay far away from the Corsiar drives. I 3rd the Crucial recommendation and would go with this one --------> http://www.newegg.co...N82E16820148441 Edit: to many 3s in there I guess.

The primary advantages of the FR series are increased capacitance and endurance. ESR is the same as the FM series. Impedance and ripple current are also the same as the FM series for a given can size.... There are a few instances where increased capacitance has reduced can size which effects ripple current / power dissipation so its a good idea to double check the datasheet.

http://nikkiandjohn.com/

It"s been like slow death waiting for it. HBO: Boardwalk Empire: Homepage

Maybe a reference to a line from Pulp Fiction? "check out the big brain on Brett" http://www.moviesoundscentral.com/sounds/pulp_fiction/bigbrain.wav

Normally I would say they're to expensive for what you get but NCIX has the low noise 120mm (NF-S12B ULN) fans listed for 2 for $24.52 (CAD). Which is a pretty nice deal. http://ncix.com/products/?sku=47335&vpn=2x%20NF%2DS12B The problem is the Noctua 140mm fan (that is not an actual 140mm fan) is $22 (CAD) and it was a little to noisy for me. http://i23.photobucket.com/albums/b393/X86inside/fanz.jpg Edit: the little "adapter brackets" that came with the 140mm fan did come in handy when it was replaced though.

Good point... I hate that about that SOHA I the piano black thing to. How about stainless steel instead? Raw stock is pretty reasonably priced...even on ebay ( example: 304 STAINLESS STEEL 18GA. .048 SHEET 9''X12''* - eBay (item 300453682180 end time Sep-06-10 06:46:32 PDT) ) It would look pretty nice with the stain you used on the wood but I dunno about the rest of parts mounted on the panel.

What color do you have in mind for the top? If you're thinking about doing it black I would almost be inclined to do a piano black style finish on it. It's pretty easy to spray the paint, wet sand, wet sand, spray again if needed, wet sand, wet sand and then clear coat it (there are a ton of case modding tutorials out there if needed). Just takes a lot of drying time...

Did you try the phone book? I found when googling it usually helps to add the city or zip code.

Yeah, that's upload time. Read write speeds from the computer I have in front of me ATM are: (eye-fi card) (POS sandisk SDHC card)

After a few months I can't imagine going back to not using one again. With my LX3 the first image takes about 6 seconds, if I don't turn it back off every picture after that takes about 2 seconds. So yeah.. a little slow but definitely worth not having to mess with cables and or removing the card from the camera.

Headphone Adaptor for Power Amplifiers

Squeeze some out on a piece of paper to see if it has separated.