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The Headcase Stax thread


thrice

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Stax never acknowledged the nomenclature, but the differences are enough that they need designating, so only by investigation -- both scientific and detective -- can we identify approximately when Stax made those changes.

 

And it requires someone with sufficient numbers of pairs passing through his hands and a knowledge of engineering to do it.  Hence why we trust spritzer to do it.

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On the site of Innerfidelity I came across this information of the SR-007. If this information is correct than it means Spritzer has a "Mk2.5".

SR-007 Mk1 early version - different driver frame plus some minor material changes, older style carbon fiber box.

SR-007 Mk1 late version - the version tested here and the most common of the Mk1's, S/N either 7xxxx or SZ1-xxxx

SR-007A/SR-007Mk2 - S/N SZ2-xxxx, Stax change the earpads, how they sit and introduce a port to the earcups. Sound is a mixed bag depending on fit but can be fixed to sound pretty much like the Mk1.

SR-007A/SR-007Mk2 - S/N SZ3-xxxx, often called the Mk2.5, Stax supposedly change the diaphragm which results in a much more forward sound signature.

We've spotted a unit in Europe having a SZ3 serial number but for the purchase date and its sound, it's quite sure that it's a mk2.

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The box means very little.  The oldest ones came in those crappy faux CF boxes but there were also some later ones that used them.  Probably just a supply thing. 

 

The serial number is under the arc's on the right hand side.  Also on the outer box which housed the flightcase. 

 

I've done the port mod now but left them completely stock in every other way.  I must say this is a very, very good 007 now.  :)  As expected the port mod mostly affects the bass and holy hell it is nice.  Very deep, controlled which shines when somebody put some effort into recording the drums.  It might not be 100% neutral (only more exposure will tell) but this sounds very nice indeed.  I'm sure the extra height of the pads is adding something to it but the pads could always be moved to the Mk1 setting easily.  The improvements also move up to the midrange, giving it a bit more heft and in true 007 fashion, voices stand out like on nothing else. 

 

So as it stands now, a great Mk1 is smoother but this one is more alive.  I need to dig out the 009 for a direct comparison but I fear it won't go well for the 009.  Imaging and bass really aren't their strong suit which the 007 excels at plus the detail they are digging out is just insane. 

 

Color me impressed....  :-[

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Hi everyone

I have some Stax SR3 New earspeakers with the common channel imbalance. Someone suggested that it'd be better to try and fix them myself than sending them off for costly refurbishment. However, having opened one of them  and removed what I believe to be the dust cover I'm a bit stuck as to how to reveal the actual membrane.

The acrylic unit looks exactly like the one DefQuo has posted here. Can anyone - especially DefQuo - offer a suggestion as to how to  open the driver unit to get to the membrane itself.

Thanks

D

 
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Ok updating this post now with results (about fucking time).

 

Had some SR-3 New's passed to me to have a look at and repair. This pair in pretty poor condition but had perfectly looking drivers (no pushed in dust protector or punctures). The only problem was no sound output, so thanks to Wachara's original suggestion while ago with informing me to re-coating my own channel imbalanced pair of SR-3 and 5's diaphragms using antistatic and professional ESL solution used to re-coat ESL panel based speakers I decided to try repair these as I've done so to the other 7 SR-3/variety based earspeakers.

 

This was the result of opening one driver up and no amount of re-coat could fix it which now distorts heavily and is about 30db's down in volume output to the other now re-coated and working channel.

 

DSC_0032_zps6iclymjn.jpg

 

DSC_0034_zpsncaj3q0a.jpg

 

Very smart engineering by Stax. Unlike later ES headphone models that have the diaphragm mechanically tensioned by a precision machine then secured to the stator and spacers, SR-1-5's used disc ring secured diaphragms and a spring that sandwiches the membrane with the perfect d/s gap between the membrane and stators.

 

DSC_0033_zpsxhb8z8pq.jpg

 

Perfect dust protector 

 

DSC_0035_zpsddhzgk6c.jpg

 

Diaphragm from good driver...

 

DSC_0036_zpstl1ywp0l.jpg

 

Bad driver

 

DSC_0038_zps6vlb0ytf.jpg

 

 

Comparison. See the crinkle and membrane sticking out a bit. Seem's the previous owner opened it and tried fixing it. Because the diaphragms have a pre-tension groove which must be installed the right side up during manufacturing process, the previous owner flipped it around and with the spring installed, it stretched the mylar out. Installing it back in the driver assembly outputs huge imbalance and distortion. The only solution is to re-diaphragm the whole thing.

 

Spritzer or Wachara, any idea what mylar um thickness these are and recommendations on next suitable replacement?

 

I tried a coated glad wrap and it worked too lol but I'm after a proper fix.

Hi I just posted my question but in the wrong place it seems.

I have some Stax SR3 that look precisely like the ones you have/had here. Can you explain how to open the unit to reveal the actual diaphram? I've removed the driver from the earspeaker casing and taken off the dust cover (thin film mounted on a gold ring) but it's unclear how to get at the mylar membrane which - I'm told - probably needs cleaning/attention.

Thanks

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During the weekend I did a complete re-build of my beloved Lambda's. Heavily inspired by 4070 I decided to do a closed housing.

The coloration from the housing was a bit hard to avoid so the combination is actually the best combo that even out the coloration.

Also the pads had been rebuilt, and certainly removes any etch.

The result is outstanding, no one can tell the difference between Rick Astley's "Never gonna give up on you" and Ludvig van's Ninth's ...

 

syAN0I.jpg

 

5gPJdp.jpg

 

 

 

Let's call 'em 007mkIII, as they are everything the 007 will never become ;o)

The sound is "sick as a brick" ;o)

 

(http://inhabitat.com/lego-headphones-bring-new-life-to-old-toys/lego1/?extend=1)

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The lego is very fitting...  ;D

 

Hi I just posted my question but in the wrong place it seems.
I have some Stax SR3 that look precisely like the ones you have/had here. Can you explain how to open the unit to reveal the actual diaphram? I've removed the driver from the earspeaker casing and taken off the dust cover (thin film mounted on a gold ring) but it's unclear how to get at the mylar membrane which - I'm told - probably needs cleaning/attention.
Thanks

 

There are copper pins that hold them together.  Pull them out and the drivers open up.  Watch out for the front stator wire which is very easy to break. 

 

do they stock the 007? I didn't see it listed 

 

Yup, 1600$ isn't bad at all. 

 

Edit:  As for the sound, I still like it a lot.  I know I'll have to change the springs and move the earpads to the Mk1 position eventually but I'm digging the extra harmonics in the bass region.  It's easy enough to move press the cups towards the head to hear how they should sound. 

Edited by spritzer
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