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Obvious reasons.

The good news is that the 100mA fast-blow fuses are intact. So the load should be fine. So it's just the power supply maybe.. I'll try ordering diode bridges tomorrow. Looks like it's time to replace them.

The diode bridge could be shorted or something down the line is making it pull a lot of current.

The L500 pads are virtually the same, a bit thicker but it won't change much. Same for the L700 pads but they will both also melt away. I always use the all leather pads from China now, cheaper and much better quality but you need to get them onto the plastic mounting plate from the original pads... which is a bit of a pain

My friend's L300 pads are melting. Will there be any negative consequences on the sound if he switches to L500 or L700 pads? Also holy crap the build on that X1 clone looks worse than some $20 headphone from the 1990s

It's an interesting unit Not the sharpest thing in the world, but it focuses quickly. The out of focus areas are warm and fuzzy, so it has good bork-eh. Probably best used outdoors.

Yes, Birgir, it looks like you're right... I installed a 3A fuse - This time he held out and didn't burn... I installed jumpers on 2 and 5... and it looks like smoke is coming from one of the diode bridges, D11, at the bottom... It's not much, but still... I immediately turned it off I'll look for a modern replacement... It looks like it's 30 years old and needs replacing... along with the d12... It looks like the problem isn't with the slow blow fuse...

2 and 5 is what I'd set it to and that is also likely not the cause, fuses blow for a reason so check for any failed parts. These amps are almost 30 years old at this point so they need to be refurbished.

I guess it would need extra spacing between the bcp and heatsink to acomodate the relays. Looks very nice, if you end up ordering boards for a finalized version, could I bother you with a set? I have a GRLV configured at 24V which could be put to work. I guess one of those mini dissipante cases from modushop should be a nice fit for this.

Thanks, Kevin. I'll try switching it to 2 and 5. And I'll install a 3A or higher fuse. And I'll test it...

I found this drawing... The jumpers are currently set to 3 and 5...

that is not one of the available options. the options are 100v, 120v and 240v some people think the 120v option is 115 but it is not. for 240v the 120v windings are in series. if you really want the 120v in series with the 100v for 220v, you have to wire remove all the jumpers and wire by hand

Thelma Houston & Pressure Cooker - I've Got the Music in Me (Sheffield Labs recording on CD) - Picked up at a local Goodwill on a whim based on the label. I was not familiar with the Sheffield Lab era but was intrigued by the cover, so I grabbed it. Have I found my newest obsession?

Hi Birgir Thank you for your interest in this topic. I just can't find a suitable slow-blow fuse =( Its dimensions should be 6x30 or 6.2x32 or something like that, it should be rated for 250v and 1.5a and be a slow blow.. So I thought I could use a higher-amperage fast-blow fuse for timing tests... Hi Kevin, thanks for your comment. Well in my 220-volt network, the voltage sometimes rises to 230... So I thought it would be a good idea to put jumpers on 3 and 5... instead of 2 and 5.... just to have some reserve... It seemed to me that it's better to have a reserve of -10 volts than +10.. As far as I understand, the power supply here is unregulated and exceeding the input voltage is a bad idea...

you do not have the jumpers in the right position for the voltage you need. the voltage rating on the fuse is meaningless.

An exoskeleton assist

Post Hipster, Home Cooked, AI Fish Curry

AI Fish Curry, Cooked by a "Post Hipster Home Cook, apparently

An actual music video

If the fuses are blowing, then something is wrong somewhere. Never use fast blow fuses, let alone 30A. If the fuse manages to hold and something is shorted, do you want to dump 2.4kW into the amp? No...

Hi Kevin Thank you for your interest in this topic. Yes, I set the jumpers to positions 3 and 5. When I bought it, it had a 220V 1.5A fast-blow fuse. But after a few months, it failed and blew. Today, I bought the same one, 1.5A, and even 2A – they both blew instantly. Since I can't find a slow-blow fuse, I bought several fast-blow fuses, 10-20-30A, and I'm thinking of trying them. But I'm afraid to do that because I'm not sure it's just the fuse.... By the way, I measured the transformer resistance on the 220V plug that plugs into the outlet—it's only 12.7 ohms. I'm not sure that's how it should be...

are you sure of the jumpers for the voltage you are using. if jumpered on 100 or 120v and you put 220 in it, fuse will blow instantly. but you do need a slow blow fuse.

Good day, dear gentlemens. my stax 717 blows the fuses at the input of the transformer 220v 1.5 fast blow. do i need test slow blow or fast blow 30A fuse? If I decide to install 30A, is there a safer way to do it, like connect it through an incandescent lamp or something like that? What is the normal resistance of the windings of this transformer in 717 should be at the input on the socket? When I bought it, it had a 220-volt, 1.5-amp fast-blow fuse installed. But according to the schematic, I need a 220-volt, 1.5-amp slow-blow fuse. But I can't find one anywhere yet. By the way, I measured the transformer resistance on the 220V plug that plugs into the outlet—it's only 12.7 ohms. I'm not sure that's how it should be... any advice is welcome

Rest in Soft Rockin Peace "& Crofts" https://www.tmz.com/2026/03/26/dash-crofts-dead/#

I got a little obsessed when I heard this song for the first time yesterday: