Do It Yourself

Looking for some one to build me 3 pin XLR's To Rca , or 1/4"'s to RCA to hook my Begringer DEQ2496 to my headphone amp. Can anybody help me out?

Last year I built a pair of balanced cables to go between my Theta Pre and Classe amp. After they broke in, I was really surprised how good they sounded. I used DH Labs Pro Studio and a set of Neutrik connectors. The ground is connected at both ends. I've read that sometimes floating the ground is not a bad idea. I now realize that I could probably live with this cable for a while. Yeah, I like it! I also need to move my gear from it's current location (in between the speakers) to it's new home, in a rack along the wall and off of the damned floor. New rack is in the works. Anyway, I ordered a nice 50 foot section of DH Labs Pro Studio from Parts Connexi…

Got a couple pictures last night at last. It's been running for a few weeks now, I kept tinkering with it, but it's pretty much done for now. Built mostly from parts on hand, plus an old scsi drive chassis. I did buy a few resistors once I had settled on working values, if only to replace a couple series and parallel conglomerations. Obligatory off and on shots... Started with this lumber and chassis... [ATTACH=CONFIG]3086[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=CONFIG]3087[/ATTACH] There is another thread (dead bug psu) that shows some other pics along the way. The amp is derivation of the mapletree design; it has higher operating voltage, similar to his super, though t…

Hi guys and gals, I bought a gamma2 and I'd like to plug in to the wall and use the trasit to send it data across toslink to avoid ground loop issues. Does anyone have any recommendations as to what to buy for a 5v 300mA supply to use with it. Sorry for the dumb question but I'm having no luck finding one and I'm obviously looking in the wrong place.

I have some of these Chinese "CMC" type RCA Jacks. They have a knurled ring that has indents for some type of PIN wrench. What do you guys have for these to keep them from getting scratched up via pliers? PIC

OK, so I need to replace a resistor on one of my ESL-63s so it matches up with the one Kent repaired. Kent sent me very detailed instructions that I think I'll be able to follow. Basically I have to unsolder a wire, unsolder a resistor, install the new resistor and resolder the wire. The rest is just disassembly that can be done with a screwdriver. My screwdriver skillset is pretty strong so I think I'm OK there. I'm looking for suggestions for a soldering iron. Currently the resistor swap is the only task on my DIY schedule. To be honest I doubt I'll be constructing CMoys anytime soon, but who knows? So I don't need the best iron ever but I want to avoid buying ju…

I see that Panavises are highly recommended by a number of you. What base/head combination would you suggest as an initial purchase? The circuit board holder looks great, but there doesn't seem to be much expandability. I was thinking the model 350 (tray base, wide jaws) might be a better option because it can take a wire holder. Do the wide jaws work well for PCBs? Is the soldering station useful? Thanks for suggestions!

I'm sorta intrigued by this unit: anyone know much about it? Also, anyone heard the AVC TVC units from Diy HiFi (i.e. Django, etc.) 50/50% Permalloy Core Autoformer 28 step (Pair) | Diy HiFi Supply Of course there is the S&B, Sowter, and Jensen (and probably Lundahl) .. any others to consider? This would be used in conjunction with an active preamp. What is the general consensus of TVC used in this type of situation?

the stock cable on my sennheiser HE-60's is starting to fail (intermittent right channel) normally I recable all my headphones with mogami 2534 but I am worried about sending 600V down that cable... so I am wondering what kind of cable would be appropriate? or would the 2534 probably be ok?

Members pay a fee and can use some expensive DIY equipment: Ping - At TechShops, Do-It-Yourselfers Get to Use Expensive Tools - NYTimes.com

not sure if there is any interest, but ran across these: DODD AUDIO DIY

In my current situation I don't really have a designated area for electronics work. While trying to find a wife-accepted permanent location I've had to make due with a few impromptu work areas, all of which have really inadequate lighting. Funds are tight, but I absolutely can't afford to ruin another component attempting to forge ahead despite poor lighting conditions. I'm looking for something <$40 shipped (or bought locally) that can work well as a light for electronics work. Anyone have any suggestions on what to go for?

That was seriously misleading.. I thought it was the official release of FPE's Front panel designer 4.0, but instead it was a email from Front panel Expert for their software Cetina CAD 1.3.7 This was followed shortly by another email for a 25% off promotional offer this month. My order is still going to go to cam-expert since FPexpert doesn't offer plexi, but I'm curious to see how their service compares to FPexpress and cam-expert. They've been out for a while now from what I know, but I haven't heard any mention of them before.

Anyone else get the following email this weekend/today? modu Case made in Italy by Hi-Fi 2000 We would like our kind customer to know that the Galaxy, Slim and Dissipante series are now available in full aluminium see here modushop.biz and it is already possible to customize them. Click here modushop.biz Modu Staff A bit expensive, more of a jump from the standard pricing than I would have thought. Oh yeah, I got this email 3 times yesterday, and once (so far) today

33 Step 100K Stereo Volume Control tube Preamplifier - eBay (item 150423738955 end time Apr-13-10 19:23:07 PDT) No personal investment, but Craig wanted to know so I thought I'd ask

I finally stopped dicking around with psud and actually dead bugged this psu I've been mulling over. It's alive, and no parts were killed. Glad we don't have a cat anymore. Loaded it down, and it was pretty close to what psud predicted. Not knowing what the regulation of the transformer was, I adjusted the setting in psud until it matched the output, and it scales properly. Added a small resistor up front to bring the output down a bit, and I think I'm done. No electrolytics, with a shared C-L-C, then it splits into two channels, each having an L-C-R-C string. The output power tap is at the L-C jct, the gain stage tap is at the end. Rectifier is a 5V4GA I had on han…

Ooh, this does look interesting .... Introducing δ1 (delta1), the first of a series of application modules for the LCDuino-1. I will add more info here, but for now here is a 3D render "teaser" of the PCB: The LCDuino-1 I/O processor - Page 20 - Head-Fi: Covering Headphones, Earphones and Portable Audio

I'm looking for some new hex keys/allen wrenches. I have the typical cheap set and assorted ones that came with furniture, but those suck because they tend to corrode or get stripped by tight screws. I need a set that is well-made and has more torque than the typical L-shaped keys. I know Klein makes sets, but they can get pricey. Any recommendations?

I could use some help with a problem I have in my father's amp. It is an integrated tube amp, Sonic Frontiers SFC-1. The amplifier has a "direct" toggle switch, which sends the signal directly from the RCA input to the volume pot,and then has 4 inputs which go through an elna selector switch and a balance control. When using "direct" nothing is wrong, but when using any of the other 4 inputs there is audible distortion in the music. I went through the tubes, checked and replaced each one with some older ones and they seem to be fine, the situation continued. I've inspected the solder joints in the rca's and the elna switch andthey seem ok. the balance control is i…

As many of you know, APL is being flaky as ever so I might as well keep my 3910 since it works well for my needs and sounds pretty good. I do have two major problems with it though, first of it is 117V only and the second, it is not silver. The solution for the latter is pretty simple, I just bought a Japanese 3910 for very little money (which are champagne colored) so I'll just move all the trim parts over and gain a replacement drive too boot. That player hasn't arrived yet so I'll tackle it at a later date. As for the issue of 117V, well an outside step down transformer is just a pain so why not try to mount one internally? Since I was ordering some transform…

Gang, My Dad seems to have misplaced the wall wart for his EC/SS. I know it is a 16V AC wall wart, but I'm not sure what exact specs I should be looking for. Any help is appreciated.

Basically a two part question. I want to get some isolation feet for some of my gearses and speakerses. The speakers are easy, as I know they are M6. But... 1) How would I go about determining the thread size where I don't currently have a screw? In other words, the component has a threaded insertion point, but I don't know what size it takes. 2) For those components where I want to replace the current feet, what's the proper way to measure the screw so that I arrive at the proper thread size?

Twisted Pear Audio Looks like a new round of boards will be available for purchase this weekend. Get 'em now while you can.

heh, but seriously. If you only have room for a single jack, and want to support balanced (4-channel bridged) and single ended cans, what do you do? Two options as I see it. Use 4-pin jack and tie ground to the shell and/or case or use a 5-pin jack and have a dedicated pin for ground. If the first case, I'm not sure if there are 4-pin female jacks where the where the "shell connection" can be isolated from the case. If this isn't possible, then is 5-pin the only real option? I cannot believe this hasn't come up before. Thoughts?

I have some gear that I've had a long time and have not fired them up in a long time. 2 Adcom GFA-555s 1 Pair Martin Logan Monoliths They are all around 20+ years old. The amps have spent some time in the garage in South FL. Should I just recap the cross-overs in the spkrs and the amps? I'm afraid to power them up. The woofers need the surrounds rebuilt anyhow. Just worried that firing them up would take out the boards if the caps were bad. I think I know the answer but thought I would ask anyhow.