Do It Yourself

So I set up my lathe last night, and was itchin' to get to it today. I had a piece of East India Rosewood hanging around in the shop, and with nothing really in mind set out to make some wood chips. What I ended up with will probably end up as a post for a multi headphone stand, most likely with 4 hangers attached to a hub mounted to the top of the post and a round thick base at the bottom.

How would you make your own resistor of any arbitrary value? What natural material works well? I've made my own inductors out of tin foil, then capacitors out of mineral oil, and would like to move on to resistors. Any advice would be grateful.

What's the polarity of the Turbulent Labs driver? Is the green dot + or - ?

Hi, everybody! I'm novice here and signup being impressed mister Kevin Gilmore designs. First of all - thanks to him for making designs opened! Now i'm thinking about building Dynahi at a different manner than author. The main concept is to put overall amp in a comparatively small case such 3209: http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/3209-class-A-Full-Aluminum-amplifier-Enclosure-AMP-case-both-side-heatsink-/271986781371?nav=SEARCH So, PCBs must be rerouted. Here i want to offer another building idea, best to understand by photo and renders (for understanding dimensions - caps are 18 mm diameter and 35 mm height): There are several benefits in such layout. 1.…

Thinking about recalbing my K701s... Any suggestions for a good 4-condutor cable? \ I will be running it balanced. How does Mogami 2534 rate? Thanks Pete

Hello Board Im working on a shitty little amp that assuming the stars and plannets are in alignment will be at canjam. at the moment, not 1 part has been soldered but the casework is done and being painted.... Now that I have cursed my project by admitting that it exists: The case (a cheap "BUD box") that I am painting with hammer-tone paint, because it will (hopefully) mask some of my horrific screwups with the drill and could not ever look even close to as bad as a naked BUD box. I painted one corner of the top a little thicker than the rest, should I worry? Im going back for coat #2 in about 45 min... Thanks Ari

I have some gear that I've had a long time and have not fired them up in a long time. 2 Adcom GFA-555s 1 Pair Martin Logan Monoliths They are all around 20+ years old. The amps have spent some time in the garage in South FL. Should I just recap the cross-overs in the spkrs and the amps? I'm afraid to power them up. The woofers need the surrounds rebuilt anyhow. Just worried that firing them up would take out the boards if the caps were bad. I think I know the answer but thought I would ask anyhow.

I'm not sure if this is the right place but I guess DIYers should understand better whats going on inside the DAC. Basically the Northstar doesn't lock with the upscaling activated and just blinks wildly, If I turn off the upscaling before it starts blinking it will play without a problem but if I let a few minutes with it on, it goes wild and won't let me deactivate the upscaling. When this happens if I connect any transport it immediately does that even without music. Any idea what this could be and if it can be fixed ?

So, I want to build an L-Pad based headphone adapter so I can connect headphones to the speaker outputs of an amp. This is mainly for S&Gs, but if it works great then I have the added bonus of having my innate and poverty-enhanced cheapness vindicated. I was planning to use this information from Meier to optimize the impedance for my headphones: http://www.meier-audio.homepage.t-online.de/ - click on "tips and tricks" and look under the impedance optimization title. One thing I can't figure out (yes, I'm challenged with these types of calculations) is how many watts the resistors should need to be able to disspate. Let's assume I have an amp that maxes out aro…

I'm about to give my M^3 a major overhaul - new enclosure, sigma 11 to replace the current tread power supply, and a possible cap upgrade. I've never found myself using the bass control much and am considering removing it. It's removal would seem to remove 1 pot and a few caps from the signal path, which might be a good thing to do, especially if you don't see the need for constant bass adjustment.

I've agreed to build some Sennheiser open wood cups, and I'm wondering if anyone has a good source for stainless steel mesh? I'm thinking of using #12 mesh, and only need a small amount, about 1 sq. ft.

For the last few months I've lost all my motivation for DIY. I have parts to complete quite a few projects but all my motivation is gone... I haven't been listening alot of music too... I haven't fired the soldering iron probably in 6 months... Any ideas to help me get back DIYing? I'm sure some of you had this problem! Thanks in advance! Manuel

Just wondering if anyones tried Craig's teflon, pressure adjustable tube sockets? They're very $$$ ($70) but if I was building a 300B/2A3 amp using "the good stuff" parts, it wouldn't be totally out of line. http://www.eddiecurrent.com/Tube_Socket.html

I'm building a couple of cables for a friend and he'd like them to be made of solid silver. My first thought was to buy some of Homegrown Audio's prebraided silver wire. It's not the cheapest but it is the easiest route to good looking silver cables in my opinion. And for what's it worth I've done the google thing and seen some stuff like VH Audio offers which is actually more than HGA. The first couple of pages of links that I found yielded nothing useful so here at am, at the mercy of your help. My only other experience buying bulk silver wire (from a GB on head-fi) wasn't particularly good so I'm wondering if any one wants to point me in the direction of a good suppli…

What is the replacement of the stable pressure pipe? Z4 Anybody know, thank you! STAX SRM-007TA Z3, Z4 Bose sealed diode，

a couple cool projects have popped up recently, one by Papa himself and one by John Curl's number one fan, Grey: http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=120673 http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=1484933#post1484933 Just figured someone around here might be interested!

I need a caliper for my guitar experimentation. Is there a better value out there than this one? I see this one on Amazon -- any good?

I have all my parts and finally have some free time to balance the HD650 stock cable with 2 female XLR connectors. I have done some searching and these two threads in particular were the most helpful: http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?t=205655 http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?t=89411 My knowledge of balanced configurations is limited so I'll try and compile all the information I've gathered tonight:

Im interested in finding out as much about acoustic tubes and pipes as possible and so will be posting key and relevant information right here. I would appreciate any contributions around: -Who were the early manufacturers of piped sound translation apperatus, when did they first come out? -Models names and pictures? -Does anyone own a pair of headphones that make use of an acoustic tube, and are they any good?- whats your call on the worth of the tube?, will it go on... Cheers -Louis

Hello everyone, hope everything doing very well today. Few days ago I found two transformers in my dungeon, which named by my wife. I mentioned it has 16V out and double 110V in, so I guess perhaps could make something like stax srd-7. Then I made a pcb and give most places to voltage doubling rectifier, as same as srd-7, and... it works. Well somehow the bias unable to reach 580V, only around 490V, the sound quality, of course, bass section bit weak, so I have to turn the EQ on, then everything fantastic. BOM: 2 30W transformers 110-0-110 in 16V out, 1 50W transformer 220V in 110V out. 1 fuse @200ma 6 0.1uf 630…

My original Dynahi built in 2008 is still going strong and sounds just a good as they day I finished it. I replaced the 50K volume pot with a 10K as it should've been years ago. I believe KG said 50 was to high. With the 10K the amp sounds perfect but I think I've lost the use of the full range of the volume control. I only use the first 25% now where I used to use up to 50% or more with the 50K. Do you think it would be ok to switch to a 25K volume pot?

I'm looking for something small to put in my garage for blowing dust around, airing up tires, and perhaps using a small air tool with (finish nailer or something). Small and maintenance free would be nice. I've seen a couple pancakes by Husky and noticed that now Woodcraft sells a Woodriver unit that is relatively cheap. Budget is <$150. I've looked occasionally on Craigslist for something used, but nothing that is at all "new" has popped up... recommendations?

Or is there a replacement for it now?

I am probably starting to much thread here but anyway, here is another one. I heard about the Bamaslama amp, and now I want to build one. schematic: PSU amp Is the relay needed because of the power supply design ? Does it make a "plop" when you power the amp ? Can I use cheap dual op-amp or something special is needed there ? Then what kind of relay do I need ? Are all resistors 1/4W ? Do i need matched pair for the second stage tube ? What will be the DC offset like ? What is the filament wiring like ? What will be the approximate price to build it ? I will use cheap coupling caps in the first time. Lots of question as always,

So I am getting ready to order a Hakko 936 as my cheap-o irons have pretty much had it. Which soldering tips do you guys recommend? I'm not real big on single use tools, so which tip would you consider the swiss army knife for the Hakko? I will be soldering my first SMD parts so something that runs the gammut would be great. Thanks