Do It Yourself

Please. Suggestions for a balanced SS amp to power LCD's. B22 seems to be the only one I can find. Thanks!

Sorry to start a new topic on this, but I thought if I posted it on a previous thread it would get lost. The issue with the original power supply was that it was noisy at times. I had originally measured < 2 mV power supply noise, and 3 - 5 mV noise at the amp outputs. But on re-measuring, the power supply noise was > 5 mV with the amp output noise measuring around 50 mV. In fact, the noise measured before and after the regulator was similar. Thinking the regulator was noisy, it was rebuilt with new devices, without improvement. Since the current source (CCS) in the positive supply line should block noise from the raw positive supply, the likely …

Hi guys I opened my 313 to see what was needed and as you know there are two sets of RCA inputs but one is supposed to be a "Tape out" They are paralleled and have two little resistors between the connectors. What are these for? can anyone post a pic if they rewired to better chasis mount RCA inputs? Thanks

I'm finally going to break down and start doing my own soldering, and thought that maybe I'd make some adapters so that I can use other sorts of tubes in my Singlepower (tube complement == 3 x 6sn7's). 7n7's should be easy --they're just a rewire. It was suggested that I try 5687's. Based on this: and other posts (mostly from Jacob), it seems that it's not a straight rewire. Anyone have any idea what the "schematic" would be? Any others that are straight rewires that I should also try? Thanks for any info.

I have two OBH-11SE's. One of them is broken -- it's mono; other than that, it sounds fine. I got it used. I suspect the previous owner was messing with it. There appears to be an additional jumper from Q9 to Q11 (similar to the one from Q5 to Q6) -- could this be the cause? Or is it a red herring, some sort of tuning thing? I don't see a stray dollop of solder anywhere, but I could be blind. Does anyone have any ideas? Does anyone have a schematic of the thing? Tell me what to measure and where, and I will.

Saw this stuff for sale on diyaudio and thought of you guys... would this be the proper stuff for making electrostatic headphone membranes? diyAudio Forums - ESL films any interest?

A really good article by Nelson Pass on class A, A/B and B operation... http://passlabs.com/pdf/articles/leaving_class_a.pdf

Does anyone happen to know a good place to get the parts to build one? Wanted to make one for my iPod Touch Thanks!

Anybody know what votage the Mapletree Ear+ runs at?

Ooh, this does look interesting .... Introducing δ1 (delta1), the first of a series of application modules for the LCDuino-1. I will add more info here, but for now here is a 3D render "teaser" of the PCB: The LCDuino-1 I/O processor - Page 20 - Head-Fi: Covering Headphones, Earphones and Portable Audio

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=82520 $249 plus shipping. You can run it at full power if you have 240 volts available for primary, or at 70% power if you run it as 120 in 120 out. Shipping for 100 lbs...

ok, I need a quick sanity check. Amplifier input impedance is somewhat arbitrary for the Pass F4, but let's assume 47k, which is the default. Output impedance of my preamp is 100k, with coupling capacitor. My soon-to-be speakers have a f3 of 40 Hz and the driver I'm going to use in my future-to-be speakers has a fs of 48 Hz (it's a 15 cm driver), f3 undecided. I'm considering a 3uF capacitor with a small bypass, maybe 10nF. So, I'm getting 1/(pi*47k||100k*3uF), or fc = 1.66Hz. Opinions?

LOW cost way to enhance/upgrade your Grado's...never understood why plastic is used on the stock ones. http://www.ebay.com/itm/322220921728?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649 I also wish Grado's earpads and headband were more comfy. Oh well, I DO love the Grado house sound!!

Looks like a DIY ESL? Best regards Moray James.

Corvette

These caps are extremely transparent in the many uses I did. Both high voltage 600 and 1000 volts I’ve used them in dc blocking and seem to have a neutral sound has anyone tried these in Amps and pre amps I’m curious to know what others think I’m not a fan of anything oil as I feel they color the sound. In addition in stat amp builds 400 vdc seems on the edge of max range why don’t builders use 1000 vdc rated caps ? ABD0000C255.pdf

Hi. I want to ask about Raspberry Pi Camera. I am absolute beginner. I want to make a project where Raspberry Pi camera send the image to the Raspberry Pi in greyscale and based on white or black, the stepper motor will rotate forward or backward. I want to ask, is it possible to make this project using Raspberry Pi or do I need to used other microcontroller also?

I've recently committed to being a DIYer and am now looking forward to building a DAC. I currently have a Fubar II DAC (PCM2702) and wish to improve upon that. For the DIY people out there, what DIY DAC options out there (with available PCBs) are available for me? Or should I just stay with my Fubar II DAC? Cheers and thanks, Nanoha

Has anyone ever looked at, or used these On Semi parts? Look interesting to me. (Mouser part numbers below): 863-MPSW56RLRAG 863-MPSA56RLRAG 863-MPSW06RLRAG 863-MPSA06RLRAG The "W" devices are rated to 1W @ 25C in free air.

Hi, I recently bought an L300LE, and unfortunately the mechanical part of the headset is rather poor...particularly the plastic frame and the headband adjustment, the former desitinated to break with use because it was too fragile, the latter simply does not hold the set position due to the weight of the headset...I had to put bluetack on it to lock the two slides in place the aluminum frame of the 700 is much better.. but the cost is insane! simply crazy! has anyone made anything DIY to replace these shoddy parts?

I'm just finished school about to be working as an electrician and my teacher swears by butane soldering irons. She's had the same one for 20 years. It looks like they can be used for melting heatshrink too. Does anyone have any experience with these?

I'm trying to fix my grandma's Westinghouse electric griddle from the 50s. The resistor (at least I think that's what it is) has failed. Unfortunately, whatever insulating material was used to encase it has melted, so there is no way to make out any part value labeling. Is there some general "close enough" value part I can replace it with or is an exact replacement the only way? I know this isn't audio related, but I thought I would try asking here before seeking out a vintage appliance repair forum (which I'm sure exists somewhere).

so, I've been playing around with some diodes on a power supply and found some I like, but I think I'm cutting it too close with the current rating. The transformer is 82VCT 50VA R-core and I have a 300mA fuse on each rail after the main supply capacitance, which is around 3000uF per rail. I wouldn't expect any more than 300mA per rail, hence the fuse choice. That being said, there is in-rush and the like to consider, and blowing a bridge isn't too exciting in my book. So, without admitting how stupid I was, and how low I went... in your opinion, what's a good rule of thumb?

That was seriously misleading.. I thought it was the official release of FPE's Front panel designer 4.0, but instead it was a email from Front panel Expert for their software Cetina CAD 1.3.7 This was followed shortly by another email for a 25% off promotional offer this month. My order is still going to go to cam-expert since FPexpert doesn't offer plexi, but I'm curious to see how their service compares to FPexpress and cam-expert. They've been out for a while now from what I know, but I haven't heard any mention of them before.

Partsconnexion: 15% off all film caps until Oct. 31st (20% off Jensens?) Soniccraft: 15% off everything (in stock only, check Specials page for a few exceptions)