Do It Yourself

I have my little lathe on order and it's a cheap POS cos I'm broke so the question I have is..... If you too were a broke cheap-ass, what would be the one chisel you'd buy for doing stuff like woody cups and the like? I can't afford much so It needs to be small enough for detail and tough enough for roughing out the basic shape. Suggestions?

I recently picked up a wireless charger for my phone that works well aside from the annoying inductor whine. I was thinking of dropping some hot glue on it to dampen the noise, but thought maybe folks here might have a better suggestion of what to use. Any suggestions on a better damping material than hot glue? Thanks

As above. The 2 DACs I have already haa digital volume control which I believe are provided by the AKM/ESS chip. Thanks

Hi, my name is Miguel and I have been lurking in this forum for a while. Finally joined a couple of weeks ago and this is my first post. I am not knowledgeable in electronics and I would appreciate your help since I would like to use the JJ ECC99 tube in a Singlepower MPX3 as an output tube. Yes I know, Mikhail has made some horrible amps and has stolen a lot of money from many. However I already own the amp (bought it from Tyrion) and w/ Dr. Gilmore's help I replaced the diodes, verified the transformer is acceptable, and installed a couple of resistors to bleed the large power caps. I first came across the JJ ECC99 tube in a headphone amp by Dr. Lloyd of Mapletr…

A friend and I are both building Pearl IIs. A sizable portion of the cost is capacitors. I don't have enough experience to have a well developed gut feeling for value or any favorite brands. There are basically three flavors we have to chose: big-ish electrolytics that smooth power, caps in the RIAA network that are between the signal and ground and two coupling caps, smack dab in the signal path -one is two paralleled film caps of small-ish value and right at the output we have what is specified to be a 22uF electrolytic, bypassed with a film cap. There's an armload of these things, so just buying the fanciest boutique brands all the way through doesn't seem like …

I got to thinking, that my source outputs PLENTY of voltage, so I could possibly get by with a headphone amp in unity gain, only suppling additional current. Is it possible to properly operate the dynahi this way? I am aware of how to change the gain, and fortunately dgardner socketed the gain resistor for me. My understanding of gain tells me that this resistor would essentially be bypassed to run unity gain, correct? The unusual nature of that setup is what made me wonder if it were possible. Certainly I could stick in a 100ohm resistor to get to a gain of 2, right? At any rate, is there any point to this? I figured that lower gain would equal less noise, since the v…

I managed to pick up a pair of vintage RS-1 (wooden box, brown leather headband, no serial number). However there's no sound out coming out of the right driver. I'm able to unscrew the 1/4 plug and the wires seem okay. Looking into the grill, again the wires seem fine. I'll check the wires against ground with a multimeter when I get home. However, in case worse comes to worse, is there a knack to getting access to the drivers? I've read about sharp screwdrivers, hot water and hair dryer and even spoons ( http://www.headwize.com/projects/showfile.php?file=grado_prj.htm ) though it seems to have been done mostly on plastic or metal-bodied Grados and not wooden o…

That was seriously misleading.. I thought it was the official release of FPE's Front panel designer 4.0, but instead it was a email from Front panel Expert for their software Cetina CAD 1.3.7 This was followed shortly by another email for a 25% off promotional offer this month. My order is still going to go to cam-expert since FPexpert doesn't offer plexi, but I'm curious to see how their service compares to FPexpress and cam-expert. They've been out for a while now from what I know, but I haven't heard any mention of them before.

So I have a Bijou built by dBel84 (Don) and am curious about the negative feedback. With the pot turned all the way down (7 oclock) it seems to have no negative feedback and is perfect for my AKG 340's . As you turn the pot clockwise you get less and less sound. Am I supposed to turn the negative feedback up when using Grado's and Ultrasones ( I know everybody at head-case loves Ultrasones) If I turn it up too much it seems to loose a lot of the lushness of the amp. I am still trying to figure out the best spot for my low impendence phones. Anybody got any advice? Chris

Partsconnexion: 15% off all film caps until Oct. 31st (20% off Jensens?) Soniccraft: 15% off everything (in stock only, check Specials page for a few exceptions)

I've been playing around with vinyl rigs again for a while now. Some of you will remember that I was going to build a custom plinth for a Mitsubishi LT-30 a while back, but ended up just overlaying the plinth with Wenge. Well with my greatest resource at hand (luvdunhill) I opted for a completely custom table a while back. I purchased most of the parts earlier, but am just now finding a little free time to build the plinth. I went back and forth on the design several times, and almost ended up using some soapstone slabs. But in the end I decided on wood. Specifically the core of the plinth will be alternating layers of 3/4" MDF and Baltic Birch plywood. 6 layers to …

Oh effing snap. The LCDuino-1 I/O processor - Head-Fi: Covering Headphones, Earphones and Portable Audio

Well I traded for a pair of ALO jenna cable rewired 701s and of course the left channel is cutting out on me at the earcup. I have a 4 conductor extension that highflyin9 did for me a while back that is totally transparent to me so I thought I would use that cable to rewire these. Ken did a second entry so I am all set up to attempt to wire them balanced but I can't seem to be able to get into the earcup has anyone done these yet. I would stick with the jenna wire but it is all of 5 feet and I need a min of 10ft any help would be appreciated

I need a caliper for my guitar experimentation. Is there a better value out there than this one? I see this one on Amazon -- any good?

Got a regular 24v psu (no minus voltage), 100k vol pot and a small case. Best amp to build?

Any of you ever across this stuff? Discrete opamps and 78xx/79xx Vregs? https://sparkoslabs.com/ Wonder if the regs are any good and how they compare to Amb's o78/o79?

Anyone willing to make a Xhadow XLR chassis mount for me ? I am thinking of an aluminium plate (the depth of a gender modules' thread), A threaded tunnel in its? centre to accept the gender module and two or more bolt/screw holes near the edge to allow attachment to a chassis. a disassembled XLR connector is shown http://www.takefiveaudio.com/mall/images/zoom/601_2.jpg the shiny piece with the white core and gold screws in the back of it is a gender module. If anyone spots a design flaw please point it out. I?ve e-mailed Chris Sommovigo at Xhadow and the edited highlights of his reply were : I?d like to get 4 of these mounts so I can have Xhadow XLR c…

been working on this one a while, with all the popular transistors disappearing, I hope that this one won't go obsolete before the boards are out. I don't think so because Fairchild has said that the bc parts should be available for at least 5 years but onsemi said the same thing. This one is a diamond transistor input set, used as a voltage to current converter. A pair of Wilson current mirrors with input and output cascade as the VAS and a triple darlington output stage. http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/cfa2.pdf if someone knows of better surface mount parts to replace the bc series, I might as well do that from the start. ft >150mhz, hfe &g…

Hello! I am building a set of DIY headphones in a headphone shell that has a 50mm mount. I could also add an adapter to accommodate a 40mm driver. I am looking for a nice driver for this shell. I tried two different drivers from Aliexpress and neither were very good. Any suggestions?

so, I'm working on a rear panel for a preamp. I'm going to use the high-density Neutrik XLR connectors and some nice compact RCA connectors. So, what do you think so far? (rename the .txt to .fpd to see the entire panel, not just the subsection that the .jpg is zoomed in on) I still need to add a umbilical cable connector (6 conductor) and a barrel jack and tidy things up a bit... Opinions? Preamp-Rear.txt

Now for the dumb questions. I've never built a speaker cable. I want to do something quick and easy to test my AE2 speakers to see if the stock cable is picking up RF. Can I just use two separate runs of Mogami, using all four conductors? I won't be terminating at this point, just twisting the strands. Is this basic premise correct?

Now, Kerry is currently about to test the latest revision of the Kevin Gilmore Digital Attenuator, and since a few people have asked for a Group Buy we hereby probe the interest. Kerry is mostly inclined for the 50k version. Please put your request into the referenced Google spreadsheet. The information in the sheet in rgrds to price is from the former group buy and only to give an idea of where we might end with this group buy. As last time we will investigate cost of fully assembled boards as well as bare boards (with stencil) if people wants to DIY. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/131vk972PEIm-J4r5IbZT7IP7CAqoMfP4j0RfE0J0xeM/edit?usp=sharing Let me kno…

Anyone want to help this guy out? I'll send him here as well.

Hi everyone! I had a quick question regarding buying a wall plug power supply. I lost the power supply of a small amplifier that I have. The back of the amplifier says that the power requirements are 12 volts DC and 4 watts. I tried looking around on Mouser but couldn't find a power supply with those exact ratings (basically 12 volts dc, 0.33 amps, 5 watts I believe). I did however find a power supply rated at 12 volts DC and 5 watts. Is the watt rating the maximum or should I not play around and instead try to find a power supply with the exact ratings that are required? Do you guys have any suggestions as to what other sites I should look on for wall plug or desktop …

Been getting these lately: Dear Customer, Thank you for ordering from Mouser Electronics. Unfortunately, we are unable to obtain an authorization for your purchase from your credit card company. The most common reasons for unauthorized purchases are an invalid credit card number, an expired credit card date, or purchase has been declined as it exceeds the credit limit. Please contact us 852-37564755 to verify your credit card information or to provide an alternative payment method (such as another credit card or to let me know if you’d like to wire the funds in advance) so that we may continue processing your order. You may contact us by replying to th…