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Peach cobbler, to take to Milo's house for dinner.

early dinner.

FOTM! FOTM! FOTM!

earlier Now

And following up to Mikey's post (and the concert)...

Can the Lumin Shills tell me if it has HP out? I think you guys are all using HP amps, correct? Also, have the shills connected it to a speaker system? Good enough volume control to act as a preamp for a basic system I presume?

Diana Ross - Diana (1980)

Test Tone @ Home live right now: http://mixlr.com/illuminator/chat

BRB, just found out both Elder and Chelsea Wolfe released new albums.

Rage In Eden – Ultravox I like this album cover a lot more than the other versions

Persona 4 Golden has finally come to PC.

The Brooklyn DAC+/Bridge has a very good HP out that you can use single ended or balanced. You do need an adapter for balanced, but that just gives the opportunity to buy more shit. I do want to hook it to the GSX when it returns. You also have the option to use the volume as analog, digital or true bypass. I guess I’m a Mytek shill.

Mike has his connected to speakers but uses a preamp I believe. I have the T2 connected to the GSX-mini (ridiculously good). No headphone out on the Lumin and both Mike and I use it with Roon. If you buy reach out for the dealer we used I would not use the digital volume as a preamp but I'm superstitious about using digital volume past a certain point.

Yes.

the 2 n's need to be flipped. this error got there when changing from the 2s transistors to the bc transistors. edit: updated schematic cfp3rssfixedsssw - CADCAM.ZIP cfa3productionss.PDF

The bias in the E90 is run off the HV+ line so 600V. That is fine for Stax but the issue is that the ballast resistor is not the right value and there is a cap after it. Now you could just place a 4M7 resistor on the adapter but I prefer to go into the amp and modify it with a voltage divider and moving the cap. The issue there is opening up the damn thing...

If you like All-Clad cookware- https://homeandcooksales.com/?cjevent=32c177dcad1211ea811500a50a1c0e0b

Listening to ECM on Qobuz, I think.

Lumin for life!

Harlequin is worth listening to in the background just for the soundtrack:

I bought a pair of Kaldas RR1 cups/drivers/pads from the previous owner about 2 months ago. They squealed, Aumkar had generously replaced the headphones for him - and didn't require shipping back the original bespoke hardware. These were among the first RR1 produced. I've been totally stir crazy due to the lockdown. Though the most I'd played with electrostats was removing rotted foam from a set of lambdas, I figured this might be a fun project to tear down, and if I'm lucky restore. I modded an old Hifiman headband, and bought a cable from Mjolnir audio. I immediately heard the electric squeal, but it would periodically go away. I had a full 2 hour stretch of silence where I realized these were awesome headphones. Though I was biased towards my Koss ESP95X - after a head to head listening session, I had to admit I liked the Kaldas more for everything but treble. Unfortunately, the squeal and/or buzzing from the left earcup grew to become practically continuous. So I used Joamat's instructions to investigate and completely disassemble the left earcup. They were fairly easy to disassemble, except for one bolt that sits right behind the mini XLR connection. The mini XLR pins being so small, and me being TERRIBLE at soldering - I tried to avoid undoing the solder joint, but broke one of the wires. If you do this, be careful to undo the wired connections last, there are tiny M2 nuts that will fall out if you're not careful. After that, I found basically the same issue that Joamat found, the Bias wire was broken, and there were strands inside the female thread of the housing. It's possible that one strand got into the driver and caused the whine and buzzing. I liked the bolted assembly, and wanted to keep the headphones easy to disassemble, so I soldered in M2 terminal connections as shown. I had to use longer heat shrink tubing because I had wiring exposed at the mini XLR connection. I used a grinder on a dremel tool to make a larger hole in the cover - I found when I assembled initially, that I caused a short and lost volume out of the left earcup. To fix it - I ended up resoldering two of the wires at the mini XLR connection. Then I blew compressed air across the driver and stators, being careful to expose the driver for the most minimal time possible. Then I reassembled as shown including the two dust covers. Eager to test my work, I reassembled the headphones and connected to my Stax SRM 717. The left earcup was completely silent - success! Funny thing - the right earcup started squealing even louder! So I repeated the process of soldering terminal connections. When I reassembled, the right earcup still squealed. I was super frustrated, but went back and did the step I skipped, I blew compressed air across driver and stators. And that seems to have solved the final issue. I've now listened for about 10 hours with almost complete silence. To be honest there's been a handful of times, totaling maybe 30 seconds where I heard a slight buzzing, and thought "Oh no! Not again!" But shifting the earcup slightly cleared it immediately. My ears touch the dust covers, so I suspect it's a different issue entirely. Perhaps with a shift, my ear presses against the stator. The final picture is of my Frankenstein Kaldas RR1 conquests. I contacted Aumkar, not for help - but to suggest a few manufacturing improvements based on my findings. Aumkar was very kind, suggested that I solder directly to the bolts - and then informed me that he'd already incorporated all of the manufacturing improvements I suggested. So if you order a Kaldas RR1 conquest now - it will be more robust than the initial versions. Overall - I think this is a great product, and Aumkar has been a pleasure to chat with. If you're willing to buy an energizer separately, these sound better than the Koss, and far better than the L300/L500 I used to own. I hope Kaldas will produce a sequel. I like these headphones so much I'm having Vesper Audio quote out slightly thicker pads so my ears don't touch - and I ordered touch up paint to fix a couple spots I scratched or gouged during my project.

Shill.

I do always remove the damping inside the earpads so that's well worth it. The older ESP950's (remember they have been in production for 30 years) also had damping on the back of the drivers which has to be removed.