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Fleet week in SF with Grahame. USS Michael Monseur first up.

Inspired by Doug, I made a focaccia recipe from the NYT -- focaccia with herbed honey plums and prosciutto. The dough didn't rise as much as expected but it was delicious.

Was talking to my Mom on the phone, when something flew in the front door. I caught it out of my peripheral vision. Assumed it was a big moth, so I kept talking to my Mom. Once I hung up, I went into the bedroom to investigate. Whatever it was, Suzy had it trapped under a nightstand. I flushed it out, to find it was a big ol' scrubjay. Took a little work, but got the poor bird back outside relatively unscathed.

After seeing the new hotness it is pretty wild going 20+ years back in time to the older gen destroyers.

Remember to follow all weapons health and safety instructions.

This was good. Thanks for the rec. Dusty!

100 xicon resistors are barely more than the cost of 10 koa resistors. If you are planning to never build anything else the xicons are a waste, otherwise its good to have spare stock. With 100 resistors of each type you can also hand match the resistors between + and - of a channel and between channels 🙂 For the RT424012 you could use instead the RTE24012 which has the advantage if being sealed - so better if you are going to ultrasonically clean the pcb. IXCP10M90S is an issue - out of stock world wide. BC547BTA can be substituted by BC547B which is in stock at mouser - you just have to bend the legs a little otherwise its the same transistor. I don't see why any 1n4007 can't be used - its a generic jelly bean component. mouser has 2n3904 available from central semiconductor - again you may need to bend the legs

For anybody who is thinking about the Bonavita: the particular one I got for Heather does not have metric markings on the reservoir. It has “cups,” delineated with a range of dose in grams for 2, 4, 6, and 8 (it’s a fairly wide range for dose!). I tested it, of course: the cup lines are pretty bang on, assuming a 5 ounce cup. With a 15:1 recipe I have Heather adding “4 cups” of water for 20 grams coffee, “6 cups” for 40, and etc. it’s close enough. The brewer will use whatever amount of water you put in, so this is sort of important. Not every brewer has accurate tanks. It would be nice if it had metric lines on this particular one, but I doubt Heather will care if she is adding 590 or so grams of water instead of 600 for her morning two cups, and this makes it simpler. Certainly better than pouring in water and coffee by eyeball into a piece of crap and hoping for the best! I just realized that you might have thought I meant the Bonavita when I said it was “too tall.” Bonavita is perfect for her cabinet height: I meant the Ratio was too tall. I had looked at the Ratio first.

We Get Requests Oscar Peterson 1964 Just a taste:

Hello everyone, I had started to post my attempts to build a modified KSA-5 klone over in the "krell ksa5 klone" thread, when I realized that I should create an own topic because my build would not be an exact clone... so this here is then exactly that. I will copy the previous posts here and delete there! Cheers, Alex. Hey folks, here is a first view on my take of this amplifier. I want to be able to attach the power transistors on one side via an L-bracket to a single heat sink. The power distribution sequence layout was kept in place but of course I had to do a little re-arranging. The original input stage is more or less unchanged. Both the top and the bottom layers have copper fills for the ground plane. I omitted the relay circuits as I plan to do a separate pcb for this. The project was done in kicad. I redrew the schematic and created a fresh pcb. Just to be clear: I do not intend to make money off this and will post all source files free whenever the project has turned out to be a success. Kudos to everyone for the excellent work and efforts previously put into this project! I hope I can somehow contribute with my ideas. I would be very interested in your comments - many thanks in advance! Cheers, Alex.

Nothing compared to my other neighbors... Had six of them inside the fence yesterday. I don't believe these are of the jive variety.

i have yemenia coming from him. I’m looking forward to it.

I tend to buy in bulk when something is available (for expensive components: double what I need for a build, for inexpensive components like resistors, diodes, zeners, bc5XX, KSP92/42 transistors etc I buy 100), because: 1. bulk discounts, 2. free shipping if you spend above a certain level, 3. useful to have spares so if you make a mistake in building it initially or in 10 or 20 years time you can still service and repair the amp... 4. you never know when the there will be more stock. 5. you can sometimes swap parts with other people 6, you never know when ON semiconductor will delete the component or take over the manufacturer (as they did with Toshiba) and then delete all the useful parts 7. component prices only go up especially when they are no longer manufactured 8. you are less reliant on ebay or other doggy sources of possibly fake components. 9, more choices if you need matched pairs, or need high hfe/Beta etc I keep my inventory in an excel spreadsheet, so I know what I have and what I am getting low on. I also add to the sheet what build(s) each component is used in. Which helps with making decisions on quantities and buying priorities. for example I have 24x 10m90s because they are used in the golden reference hv psu - which I use in every build I can and are used in the modern t2 psu, T2 amp, and blue hawaii...

ER, I understood after I read it a couple of times. That's a beautiful unit but it's a luxury and I definitely get the limited counter space dilemma. As for the imperial measures, I'm all for them... LOL HS

That looks good enough to eat.

Perfect Imperfections Marla Cannon-Goodman 2021 Daughter of songwriter Buddy Cannon, and it shows:

SOLO Yiruma 2021 Example: and Voyage Esquisse Alexandre Souillart, Matthieu Acar 2021 Example:

Lumin just announced the P1 digital hub. Looks like the T2 streamer/DAC, but with lots of inputs (including balanced and RCA analog), and a linear PS....also adds a fiber network input that the X1 has. https://www.luminmusic.com/lumin-p1.html

Great! I think I got the missing diodes... odd, though probably irrelevant: the middle resistor in the reference voltage divider is 500 ohms in your schematic and 1k in the gerber silkscreen.

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1r3g2TAtBUaBdiMorTWX7yYgeJ7maQbYW?usp=sharing

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B7egryukiT7_TFlEQlBRejdVdDQ?resourcekey=0-nGWwBYQ_Uivj-ciBLYMeaA&usp=sharing

Had a nice 2.5 hour local ride. Also broke 4000mi on the odometer.

^^Nice ride! Daylight and daytime temps are beginning to conspire against longer road rides around here (not to mention kids' sports) so I made the most of the hour of free time that I had yesterday before dusk.

you probably want to find and use my protection circuit. less parts. and also does balanced if needed

The doctor gave me his OK two months ago so I'm finally recovered ... I haven't been able to train much so tomorrow I just want to finish and have a good time in the middle of the peloton with my friends and coleagues.

Indeed, the routing of the HT-rails is somewhat complicated, but my initial goal was to stick to the exact sequence of components as indicated by the original layout. I agree, that tidying up here and re-arranging to be more streamlined might be the way to go. The effects on the performance will probably be negligible. Regarding the arrangement of power output devices, the effect of mixing them up might not be worth the effort. If it saves some space I might consider this. Output protection circuitry is definitely a must! However a pure power on delay is too little. I was thinking of incorporating a protection circuit as outlined by AMB in his Epsilon12 muting delay & DC offset protection circuit. However, I will offer up a separate power supply for this with rather weak filter caps to ensure that the relays will drop off immediately after power off. Pulling current from the amps heavily buffered HT-rails is not a good idea in my opinion and fixing this issue by introducing a breaker contact parallel to the AC input power switch is not practical. Here in Germany we are required to break 230V power with both power leads (phase + neutral) and normal switches rated for mains voltage never come with more than two poles. Another option that I might include in the additional pcb for DC-protection is the addition of a DC blocking capacitor in the audio input path. Yes, I know there are many opinions on this topic out there. But after reading up on the topic in my favorite books "Small Signal Audio Design" and "Audio Power Amplifier Design" by Douglas Self, one sentence by Doug stayed in my memory: "In some respects, any DC-coupled power amplifier is an accident waiting to happen." He has also done respectable research on the effects of all kinds of electronic components and comes to the conclusion that coupling or DC blocking capacitors have no effect on linearity as long as they are installed in the low voltage or input side of an amplifier. Anyway, I want to give DC blocking a try and if I personally cannot hear a difference to the DC coupled version, then I will rather be on the safe side ... I like my headphones very much! And as a final note, I will definitely give the mods by my name twin above a go and see if I can even hear a difference!! Cheerio, Alex.

Reply Post from alexcp: The complexity of power traces looks excessive to me and suggests that an improvement could be made. If this was my board, I would try to shake it a bit, simplify, streamline, and make it more elegant. As an idea, you can try a different order of output transistors - instead of NPN-NPN-Thermal-PNP-PNP, something like NPN-PNP-NPN-PNP-Thermal, with power rails, the output trace and the ground running parallel to the edge of the board. This will bring in a different layout, which may (or may not) be helpful. Unless you plan to use some kind of off-board headphone protection, it would make sense to put the relay back. If you're not religious about the schematic, I'd suggest making the relay work for headphone protection, not just for turn-on delay. The amp seems to be reliable, but if you can avoid ruining some expensive headphones, why skip it? And of course - what would you expect - it would be great to make it possible to implement my mods (described above) on the PCB. It only takes two extra resistors and two small capacitors per channel, but the results are totally worthwhile.

Did she make you wear a bib? 😜 Seriously though, the other day I was drinking iced tea, and dribbled on myself 2 or 3 times. This 60+ shit ain't for the faint of heart. When my TICE stops workin', I'm checkin' out! (Not that I need it that often)

And you can save those shavings to decorate gift boxes. I'm actually being serious. I once wrapped a Christmas present with brown paper, and used curled shavings to make bows and decorations.