n_maher

First place I would look is by the AC power switch.

If it were me I would not try to solve a problem that doesn't exist yet. You like the E500/530, have essentially a brand new pair, and I'd bet that Shure will treat it like your warranty reset with the new headphones. I see no reason to buy or sell anything.

My guess is that the M3 is not the problem or part that needs tweaking if you're finding things too bright.

Amphion Ions, which I quickly found out are a touch expensive for computer speakers. At least for me they were. edit - Mike beat me to it, but didn't provide a link so I chimed in anyway.

Don't think that one hasn't been priced. The problem is that getting raw aluminum panels, machining them and then sending them out to be anodized is so far completely cost prohibitive.

Yes, and they also made the "Hertsens" badge as well. You'll see similar things from me in the future.

You should ask FPE if they can handle material thicker than 4mm, then you can just buy the panel from Hifi2000 and send it to FPE for fabrication. They allow you to send the material to be modified, I do know that for sure.

Nah already done the 325s, time to try something different so it's 225s this time.

The problem as I see is that depending on the thread pitch you could have a tough time with the max FPE panel thickness not being thick enough to do what you're trying to do. If FPE fails you might have a try with emachineshop.com, although they would probably going to be a lot more expensive.

Well done you. Me, some soon-to-be-modded Grados.

No but I've read enough posts by you today to start to wonder if you are, in fact, just a jackass. Prove me wrong, I won't mind.

Are you really this much of a jackass?

Geez man, you're working OT for this freebie huh? Kinda makes you look bad, at least from where I sit.

Are you seeing them in the disc manager or just the device manager. If you can see them in the Disc Management portion of XP you can try assigning one them a drive letter. Although really you should only see one of them in the Drive Manager since the other is supposed to be an inaccessible ghost, right? I'm guessing you're part way home but not all the way there.

Both those links take me to the same page, what does my link do for you that's any different?

You can probably ignore everything but Justin's posts. Try this. In case the link above is too much work for you your options are, DAC/No DAC, color and length of USB cable to be included if you ordered the DAC. That's it as far as I know. Right now, probably not. I'm guessing he's managing about 300 orders and that it may take a while to email you back.

And your wallet empty. Some of you guys pour money into connectors like it's going out of style.

The way that I see it is that assuming the DAC is wired properly it's likely that the case is tied to safety ground (the ground at the IEC). If your outlet is ungrounded then safety ground floats and the chassis carries whatever voltage is present. When you touch the case you're becoming the path to ground. I can't remember if you've already figured out if the outlet you're using is grounded but if it is then something really weird is going on. It's also weird that there would be any voltage present at the ground unless there was a short of some kind and that could be either on the AC or DC side of things.

Can't say I see anything particularly wrong with that. But if it's shocking you with any regularity I'd get it looked at before using it again.

T-minus a few minutes before Jacob is po' again.

Now why'd you have to go and ruin a perfectly good plan.

YGPM

Or we could just wire up that 4-pin jack on your beta22 and save you some money.

All you AKG fanboys look the same to me.

I'm starting it this weekend, can't wait.