A question for those who have a zf.2 35/f2 distagon. Is there any play in the aperture ring? I recently acquired a used one and wanted to make sure it was an anomaly before contacting the seller. Unless it is locked at f22, it moves back and forth a bit and makes a "tuk tuk" sound. Even at f22, it still makes noise but less that at other apertures when rocked back and forth. Is this normal behavior or something wrong with the lens? The focus ring is smooth and there is no play with it.

OK, that is what I figured.  The glass should be better, probably "better" bokeh but maybe not worth the price or the weight on a DX (since the cheap 1.8 is available there). 

I'd be interested in thoughts on the Nikkor 70-200 2.8 vrII vs. the new Nikkor 70-200 f4.  For now, it would be used on a D7000.  From the reviews I've read here and there, the differences are not huge, at least for a crap photographer like myself.  But would like to know what you guys think.

 

Oh, and after playing with the Canon 6D, I'm sticking with Nikon.

I'm pretty sure the difference between the 2 70-200 lenses comes down to: Landscape (F4) VS sports (F2.

 

Does anyone know of the following:

Small flash - Ideally the size of a pack of cigarettes, perhaps slightly larger

Bounce head - mildly optional

"Thyristor" based automatic mode (no TTL) 

Safe for digital (6-12V)

CHEAP ($25-50, will scour ebay if you have a specific old favorite) 

 

What I'm looking for is quite common without the bounce head, but why should life be easy?

 

Put another way, I want a Nikon SB-400 that will work in idiot-mode on my Ricoh or Leica cameras. 

 

I am trying to get away from where I am now, with 3 camera systems and no compatibility of flashes... It would be nice if it fit in my new smaller camera bag too.

Thanks Ari.  I would need the sports capability.

Dinny, never get the low end of anything. That is the way you lose points.

Wise words, my friend.  I lost my head momentarily.

The F2.8 version will also be nice if (when) little monkey starts doing school plays and shit. 

 

Now someone needs to answer my flash query. 

 

Edited:

Sunpak 411 may be the ticket. Need to check whether it will blow up my GRD IV though. 

Edited March 18, 201313 yr by nikongod

I'd be interested in thoughts on the Nikkor 70-200 2.8 vrII vs. the new Nikkor 70-200 f4.  For now, it would be used on a D7000.  From the reviews I've read here and there, the differences are not huge, at least for a crap photographer like myself.  But would like to know what you guys think.

 

The biggest practical difference will be size/weight.  I'd recommend just going by B&H or the like and seeing which you'll be comfortable with.  Being that you can get a 70-200/4 and an 85/1.8 for less than the cost of the 70-200/2.8, unless you REALLY need the zoom to be wider aperture, I'd vote against the f/2.8.  The F/4 lens has more effective VR, is more flare resistant, way less focus breathing, better close-up abaility, and has sharper corners on FX (not that relevant to you).

 

Another possibility, if you don't mind the weight of the f/2.8 and want to save a few bucks, is to get the earlier version of the 70-200/2.8, which has soft, dark corners on FX, but is brilliant on DX.  This lens is easy to find used in the $1400 range, so $1000 off the new version, and none of the focus-breathing nonsense.

Or you could hop in the way back machine and go for one of the now-ancient 80-200/2.8s.  Man, did I (still do) lust after that lens...

I still shoot my push-pull 80-200F2.8D ED-IF

I'd be interested in thoughts on the Nikkor 70-200 2.8 vrII vs. the new Nikkor 70-200 f4.

I bought the 70-200 2.8 VRII a couple of years ago. It is much more lens than I need, but I do not regret buying it. The AF is fast (I would imagine that the lower light let in by the f/4 model slows the AF, but I can only speculate since I've not used it). Combining the 70-200 VRII with a 1.4x TC provides images a bit less sharp than with my 300 f/4, but it is still quite good. However, I still use the 300 mm f/4 since, even with my monopod, the combo feels lighter, and therefore much better for our outdoor hikes. With the 70-200 I have to use the Cotton Carrier or my back gets screwed up.

As for the 80-200, I almost bought one of the two-ring models, which I felt were the best value at the time I was buying. After trying it and comparing to the VRII, I found I wanted the VR and faster AF of the 70-200. KR has a little spreadsheet comparing all the models (http://www.kenrockwell.com/nikon/80-200mm-history.htm)

Edited March 18, 201313 yr by oogabooga

EOSD1752 by drjlo1, on Flickr

Bridge in the fog by Lord Nikon 12, on Flickr

very nice, ari.

I like.

Very cool shot, Ari.

EOSD1790bw by drjlo1, on Flickr

EOSD1790bw by drjlo1, on Flickr

 

If you look really closely, are there some bugs in that shot?

received a refurbished body with ~2200 shutter actuations on it today. was surprised to find a bit of paint loss and lots of scuffs on the body. is this normal for nikon or refurbished bodies in general? it seems to be a luck of the draw thing with these things. the serial number is 301xxx which gives me cause for worry as a lot of those bodies had the left focus issue. will have to find a cheap af lens to test with. big files are BIG. 

I once bought a refurbed 5d2 through Canon and except for the box (a generic Canon box), I would've been hard pressed to distinguish it from a brand new body.  From what I've read, that was generally experience most folks had when buying refurbed body from Canon.

 

If you're concerned with the condition/focusing of the body, return it/exchange it.  In fact, had I received one in condition as you've described, I'd return it, especially since refurbed items generally has very short (if any) manufacture warranty.  Was this bought through Nikon or a dealer?  

Edited March 28, 201313 yr by Salt Peanuts

received a refurbished body with ~2200 shutter actuations on it today. was surprised to find a bit of paint loss and lots of scuffs on the body. is this normal for nikon or refurbished bodies in general? it seems to be a luck of the draw thing with these things. the serial number is 301xxx which gives me cause for worry as a lot of those bodies had the left focus issue. will have to find a cheap af lens to test with. big files are BIG. 

 

Didn't realize you went with a D800.  Yes, the files are huge!  It is a very demanding camera in terms of shot discipline, hand-holding, focus accuracy, and even tripod technique.  Just about any shortcut you take, or weakness your technique exhibits will be noticeable at 100% on screen.  Be ready!

 

That doesn't sound typical for a refurb body to me, based on the experience of folks I know who have bought them.  I'd tend to go with just returning it and trying another one as well.  The AF issue is hit-and-miss, and I don't think you can really go solely by serial number range.

While I'm here, here are a couple of shots from my trip to the desert last weekend:

 

 

 

Adorama is closed until April 3rd so can't do anything about it. Took a few shots of the sky outside and the sensor is dirty as hell. No oil spots - just dust bunnies all over. Turned the camera over and found a very strong imprint of a tripod head. The body is definitely going back. It is amazing to actually be able to focus with manual glass using the viewfinder. Things actually go in and out of focus. Was never able to notice it in the D7000. 

It is amazing to actually be able to focus with manual glass using the viewfinder. Things actually go in and out of focus.

 

Kids today.