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Group Build: Dynafet

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  • Did some work on mocking up the chassis and getting into a more listenable state. I will need to get aluminum top/bottom and rear panels for this (not using the steel ones that it came with). I'm also

  • Finally got around to casing this (also posted in the What are you building thread. Needs a bit of wiring cleanup, and the transformer needs to get bolted down, but sounds great.  

  • Got both boards up and running with mods 1 and 2 above. Ran RMAA on it at 150mA, 100mA and 75mA bias. I think 150mA is probably the best. See what any of you think of the plots attached. Als

Posted Images

As far as what case we are going to use I think we need to wait till boards are finalized so we know their size and also know everything else we plan to fit in the case.

As for I/O what do people want? I was thinking for the back: SE/balanced inputs, maybe a loop out for each, SE/balanced preamp outs. Speaker if you think it's up to the task. Now do we want to use something like the e24 for switching power on/off with a nice lighted switch on the front? Matching switches for switching inputs and outputs? Single 4 pin XLR on the front or dual 3s? Or both. Two SE jacks or one?

As for the connectors I was thinking Neutrik for the XLRs and Cardas (OEM price) for the RCA and speaker (if we have it). Or if you guys are feeling froggy WBT but they have a minimum order to get the good OEM pricing.

Also what about volume pot? Dact? TP Joshua tree if they are available? If TP had the JT and Femto available we could make it with a nice display and have remote control.

There's always Dantimax...

Dantimax (elektronik) - Kits

I should stay out of these discussions as I plan on my SE set to interchange with a Dynahi under construction, I already have case, pot, etc. and plan a very simple rear panel as this will only be a headamp.

Edited by Pars

By the way i would like 4 boards minimum 8 boards maximum.

I'll build them myself...

Kevin if you need any help with the build don't hesitate to ask. >:D

Kevin if you need any help with the build don't hesitate to ask. >:D

Actually i do need help. I'm trying to find a single piece of burl walnut.

I would like it to be a single crack free cube of size 10 x 8 x 6 inches

or a piece of aged lignum vitae, same size.

Fine: I want 8 circuit boards. I will assemble them myself.

^

I'll look around. That may be hard to come by, but I have a feeling I know your plan, and it would be sweet as all hell.

PMed!

Edited by swt61

Kevin if you need any help with the build don't hesitate to ask. >:D

Steve does the soldering, Kevin does the chassis woodwork. :D

Also what about volume pot? Dact? TP Joshua tree if they are available? If TP had the JT and Femto available we could make it with a nice display and have remote control.

I already have case, pot, etc. and plan a very simple rear panel as this will only be a headamp.

Its look like that everybody want to do/have something differently and some already have case, pot, jacks etc and do not need anything.

I would suggest making a list of main custom things and letting everybody tell what they want/need or how they see it. Thus we can understand which and how many custom things we need in the future.

[*]Case

Good call. That maybe should go into a separate thread that only has posts for that.

Btw vvs_75 I still think you do nice looking work :)

Good call. That maybe should go into a separate thread that only has posts for that.

Btw vvs_75 I still think you do nice looking work :)

Thanks :).

Just want to be useful.

Another thing that I am definitely going to use in mine is an e12 board... actually the modified one I did up awhile ago and use in my Dynalo. This one uses a 555 timer, but more importantly has

  1. a manual mute switch; nice for changing headphones without worries
  2. LED drivers/outputs for normal and mute/fault states
  3. option to tie fault test ground (pin 2 of the opamp) to the amp ground

Most of you seem to be planning on doing balanced DynaFETs; the ability to deal with 4 channels (or more?) must be addressed if any are interested in this. Since this is Amb's design, even though more or less open source, it should be run past him to see if he objects. I suppose pairs of standard e12s would work for the most part also.

One other thing to consider is that if anyone is planning to go the speaker output route I'd recommend putting a Zobel on the outputs. I've actually worked up a little Zobel PCB that I'll be ordering a few of if is interested.

  • Author
One other thing to consider is that if anyone is planning to go the speaker output route I'd recommend putting a Zobel on the outputs. I've actually worked up a little Zobel PCB that I'll be ordering a few of if is interested.

A Zobel network shouldn't be necessary with the Dynafet due to the feedback design. If you want this sort of protection, and output choke might be a better choice. For example, say you're using a Piezo tweeter in your speaker design. In this case, the load doesn't tend to be inductive at high frequencies, but capacitive. In this case, the Zobel network is a poor choice and the output choke would better protect your speakers.

The problem is that the values in the Zobel need to be chosen carefully with respect to the design for optimum performance. With this said, the only person at this point who can really comment on this is Kevin, so I'll freely admit this is just speculation on my part.

Yeah, I could live with that I guess, at a push. :P

Well, here's what I really want. :P

No it's not overkill. Let's then do it for everybody! :D

Well, here's what I really want. :P

Looks good to me. With the exception of current monitoring all that could be done with Femto/AC1/JT/e24.

use the in-line non contact hall effect current devices for monitoring the

current. Same ones i used in the uberamp.

Allegro | Hall-Effect Sensors | Current Sensors

I was looking at those, but even the lowest-ranging ones seem to have a significant amount of noise - equivalent to 80mA RMS or so on the rail even with a moderate amount of filter capacitance (from page 9 of the ACS713 datasheet). Are they actually "good enough" in practice?

If so, I'll add a pair of those, an i2c ADC, and some temperature sensors right on the PCBs.

Actually i do need help. I'm trying to find a single piece of burl walnut.

I would like it to be a single crack free cube of size 10 x 8 x 6 inches

or a piece of aged lignum vitae, same size.

Fine: I want 8 circuit boards. I will assemble them myself.

Specializing in exotic hardwoods of the World

They also have an Ebay store... http://cgi.ebay.com/XXF-HUGE-WALNUT-FIGURED-LUMBER-2521L-EXOTIC-WOOD_W0QQitemZ360129433130QQihZ023QQcategoryZ84011QQtcZphotoQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1742.m153.l1262

They will be able to help - though Honduras Rosewood would be cooler, or Cocobola.

I was looking at those, but even the lowest-ranging ones seem to have a significant amount of noise - equivalent to 80mA RMS or so on the rail even with a moderate amount of filter capacitance (from page 9 of the ACS713 datasheet). Are they actually "good enough" in practice?

Well for the uberamp which idles at 1.5 ampere, they were great.

They are a little noisy down in the dumps. But really each rail should run at

200 to 300ma, so it may be ok.

They did at one time make lower current devices.

  • Author

still waiting on one last quote for the Renesas Technology parts... geez they're slow.

I've talked with Sowter as well, since I need a pair of input transformers for another project and got the following quote. The model is very similar to the unit on Voltron's Doshi preamp (see Sooper Secret Internals thread), but has upgraded features. The model isn't available on their website directly (at the moment I think it's OEM only), but is similar to the 3575. It is PCB mount with UPOCC wire upgrade. Since I'm pretty sure not everyone is interested in this, I got a quote for 6 pairs and including shipping from GB and shipping from me to you, I'm estimating $130 a pair. The next step up would require 12.5 pairs and would only net a 5% discount, which doesn't really seem worth the effort to me.

Soon I need to collect money for the small heat sinks and a deposit for some of the semiconductors to get the ball rolling. I think $120 for stereo build and $240 for a balanced build is a good start. If there are left over funds, they will go to the prototyping of the boards and free heat sinks to Kevin. I took these prices from Pars BOM. In actuality, I will probably be purchasing the 2SA1145 and 2SC2705 in bulk (sealed Toshiba packaging as they are still current part numbers) so if you have any desire for extra parts there will be a lot available. Also, if you want extra EDM heat sinks, please let me know as I can order them.

Also, I'd recommend the builders to take a look at the schematic and note areas which it is important to match transistors and resistors.

Thanks everyone!

So if we are a worthless non builder would the idea be throwing in an extra 50 percent in the semi conductor warchest?

Would it be worth attempting to match builder to buildee at this point for boards at any rate?

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