2.5" and I'm leaning towards double sided adhesive to fix the boards. Living on the edge here!!!

I'll use 10mm standoffs... I took the picture when I was marking out all the holes.

Edited January 20, 201214 yr by spritzer

Just use hot glue, Eric style

Put packing tape under it and bolt it straight to the bottom of the chassis.

Oh god, not the return of trevor something?

Close

You know, anodizing/powdercoating/painting is often an insulator, who even needs tape?

You know, anodizing/powdercoating/painting is often an insulator, who even needs tape?

Safety first and all that. You wanna do it right.

You know, anodizing/powdercoating/painting is often an insulator, who even needs tape?

Only a matter of time before someone sues par metals because their anodization layer wasn't thick enough to insulate their amp boards. That being said, any small scratch in the finish and you're heading for a fun fireworks show.

Sad day.. ^^ Safety people. Please ground properly unless you're wearing an "I R Spritzer" T-shirt.

Edited January 21, 201214 yr by Hennyo

You know, anodizing/powdercoating/painting is often an insulator, who even needs tape?

Heh. Tongue firmly in cheek

Perhaps I'll just leave the boards loose... adds a bit of excitement each time I power up the amp...

Edit. Yeah, tounge firmly in cheek since +/-500V are no laughing matter. Looking at the PSU PCB and I think it might even be prudent to use nylon standoffs if you plan on using the mounting holes in the center of the board. Those resistors are just a bit too close for my tastes...

Edited January 21, 201214 yr by spritzer

Is this the capacitor that fits C12, C14 in the PSU?

100uF/50V

EEU-HD1H101B

Edited January 24, 201214 yr by eggil

I used this: http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panasonic-Electronic-Components/EEU-FC1H101/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22ZOBEZetCii%252bbuqDJE2BU9s%3d

Slightly different lead spacing and diameter than the one you linked.

Either should work but are not the low ESR spec caps that were specified on the BOM.

Thanks. I Guess either one should work. The spacing in the PCB is actually 3.5 mm though.

that part was not in this BOM though: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/lv?hl=en_US&key=0Aq_FzyStz20hdEE1SDR3Q3JWZU5ydGpjZ2xleDA3M1E&hl=en_US&f=true&noheader=false&gid=1

Edited January 24, 201214 yr by eggil

Seems to be an error of ommision.

I built my KGSSHV off of an older BOM by KG.

These days, there seems to be a lot of differing BOMs floating around for the rev8 psu.

FWIW, the Mouser part number for this cap on my rev3 BOM is: 647-UPS1H101MPD.

It is 3.5mm lead spacing and low ESR. (better!)

ops. Nice catch. This is a bug in the script I used to generate the BOM.

No worries. Your BOM has helped me a lot!

I am starting to build the kgsshv and am atm searching for parts trying to figure out where to get the transistors. Mouser doesn't sell the ixis parts to europe and bdent has a 100$ shipping charge which is absurd for ordering 100$ worth of transistors. Do you know of any source for these either in europe or in the US which doesn't ask for the absurd shipping fees?

I am starting to build the kgsshv and am atm searching for parts trying to figure out where to get the transistors. Mouser doesn't sell the ixis parts to europe and bdent has a 100$ shipping charge which is absurd for ordering 100$ worth of transistors. Do you know of any source for these either in europe or in the US which doesn't ask for the absurd shipping fees?

Future electronics.

Just got my transformers from sumR. It was spec as follows:

100VA / Dual 117V primary ( 2 x 117V)

2 x 450V (@125mA output/ each secondary).

1 x 30VCT (15V-0-15V) 10VA secondary Core band Static shields

Decided to measure the secondaries. Got 490v x 2 and 36vct. This is about 20percent above spec. Is this normal? Getting all the others parts together now. Local shop is helping me with that and might be able to save on some shipping costs. The sumR transformer shipping costs to Singapore was more than the costs of the transformer.

You measured it unloaded, right? Voltage should drop once you load it with the power supply and amp.

Yup that's normal for unloaded AC output.

Once connected to the psu, the trafo output should be more in-line with the rated spec. (+/- 5%)

I asked the same question about a year ago when I built mine.

Both KG and SumR stated that's A-OK.

The SumR spec sheet should even state the unloaded voltage.

Yep, they do. The 490V reading is still slightly above my stated off load spec, but it might be because your mains output is slightly higher. Sometimes my mains outputs as much as 124VAC when it is suppose to be 117VAC.

Edited January 31, 201214 yr by ujamerstand