Audio Accessories

Hoping to find a digital stylus force gauge accurate to 0.01. Really don't want to pay more then $100. Needs to last forever and ever. Any suggestions?

So, the AD2K box is a big pile of dogshit. The plastic covering inside actually fell off when I first opened the box upon receiving it. I don't feel like the headphone would be very safe traveling in it (or even for storage). The current case that I've been using for my HF-2 is just a tad too small (not enough height/depth) for my AD2K and I was wondering if anyone happened to know if the W5000 case (or another AT case for that matter) supported the AD2K? If so, any idea where I could find it? I did look at Pelican but would rather see what else is out there since they are a little expensive, like $80 for the size I'd need. Based off some very rough measurement…

How about ​The McIntosh McAire Yours for only ... $3000 http://www.mcintoshlabs.com/us/Products/pages/ProductDetails.aspx?CatId=LifeStyle&ProductId=McAire Oh, and don't forget the stand http://www.mcintoshlabs.com/us/Products/pages/ProductDetails.aspx?CatId=Merchandise&ProductId=McIntoshST1AccessoryStand A Bargain at only $50 (or use an aptX enable bluetooth audio receiver and some (active) speakers ...)

I have searched through every thread and all I can seem to find is people bagging certain cables but no real info on why they are bagging them or what to look for in a cable. So where's the good shit? The info I was told I could find on this forum?

Hi xuys and gals, I'm thinking of getting some XLR splitters for my setup and this device looks good to me and avoids ground hum issues: Amazon.com: ROLLS MS20c MICROPHONE SPLITTER/COMBINER: Musical Instruments Am I breaking any rules if I use this for balanced audio instead of mic-level audio? Also are transformers essentially transparent to audio frequency signals? Thanks in advance

Hey everyone, haven't posted here in quite some time. I have an aftermarket Senn HD650 cable that is a bit messed up. The left headphone connection is shoddy, and keeps cutting out whenever I move my head. I've done tests to confirm that its the cable connection, because my stock cable works perfectly. I have next to no idea what I'm doing, so I contacted Zach Collier from Enigma Audio to fix it, but he hasn't gotten back to me. Any other ideas where I could reliably get this fixed?

http://6moons.com/audioreviews/nanotech3/79.html Shark oil!

Golden Monkey on that other site (hidden in a 740C thread) mentioned the Tributaries - Silver Series video cable (could also be used for coaxial audio) sale over at AudioAdvisor. Of course ridiculous at $340 retail, but three coaxial cables at $30 isn't bad. Thought some here may be interested.

I guess that pole-smoker Ken has got another scam up his sleeve. From the $925 "super cotton" USB cable... "Using ALO's proven silver in cotton design to a USB cable that now proves to take your DAC to a new level. We start with a specially designed solid silver wire that is to our specs, purity, temper and gauge. Then we manually push the silver wire in a thick tube of 100% cotton. The advantages over this vs Teflon are huge, there is zero Teflon, PVC, or PE products associated with the ALO Super Cotton USB. We then use a special geometry to isolate the data from the VDC conductors, double sleeve these yet again and finish up with a black and gold mesh jacket. Wha…

(I am ashamed to admit this but) I have an old pair of Monster 1/8" -> RCA cables and they are directional. I was confused by this and looked up this on their website. It says: Why do the cables have directional arrows? This is done for shielding purposes only, a design where we do not solder the shield on the signal's destination. This ensures that any noise picked up by the shield will not be transmitted into your signal path. Can I assume that any other cable that I buy will not be directional? For example, I want to get the Blue Jeans Cable RCA-1/8" cable or similar and want to use it from my DAC or GS-1 line out to the Pico Slim. Also, I don't…

i replaced my crappy wall outlet with a cryoed pass and seymour 8200H from cryo parts like 2 weeks ago. i got a really nice improvement on imaging, and the blackground hash also dropped a bit, resulting in a better sense of transparency and speed. out of boredom i plugged my lavry directly to the receptacle. to my surprise the sound isn't that different from the clean, open sound i get from plugging my rig into the running springs haley. take the improvement i get from the cryoed P&S further, and you get the haley. the p&s is more expensive than the normal receptacle we use, but its physically larger, and the clamping mechanism is better built. it also doesn't …

check this out: Multicard-lovin' dual SATA HDD dock keeps the dream alive

Would like to use the other optical input on my Parasounds, so wondering if anyone has ever seen a ST optical to TOSLINK adapter? Searches are coming up empty, so not hopeful.

Ayre MX-R -- $10,000. Dog dish and Ikea coffee cups -- $7.50. Appropriately elevated speaker cable -- priceless.

So my headphone amps outnumber my sources so looking for a RCA switcher. One in and 3-4 out. Was eyeing the Luxman AS-44 Line Switch simply because it's pretty, can be found on eBay, and the matching P-1 would be involved, but can't find any photos of inside and open to other options as, after all, it's just a passive switcher. There's Goldpoint too. And yeah, I know the d-_-b solution would be to buy more DACs. Any thoughts?

Many of you probably know that I just bought this Samsung HTIB. All I need to finish setting it up is a pair of cheap 28" (more or less) speaker stands for the front L/R speakers. These Sanus stands at Amazon is the best deal I've found. Before I act on this, I thought I'd ask here to see if anybody knows of a better stand and/or deal. Thanks in advance for your advice.

Featured on Woot today is this: Kind of neat for $40. I may get it. Comes w/ 1year subscription that you can cancel and get rebate if desired. www.woot.com

wow, this is probably the real deal. it has replaced my wolff gain on the running springs haley power conditioner. wonder how does it fare against the vh audio airsine...

I tend not to spend much on digital cables, and due to the magiDAC thread, now need a short coaxial. Anyone have a recommendation?

I`m hoping that this EVAL-ADuM4160EBZ may be an affordable means to prevent a usb ground loop when its released. [url=http://www.analog.com/en/interface/digital-isolators/products/overview/over_iCoupler_USB_Isolation/resources/fca.html]iCoupler

Spearit Sound in Boston/Northampton bought out the inventory of Siltech America and are selling them cheap(er). I'm not associated with neither Spearit Sound nor Siltech. http://www.spearitsound.com/siltechsale/siltech_home.htm

Take a look at this. I'd pay $20 with ship. I don't think I want to pay more than a third of what I paid for my SR60 but I sorely need one before the padding gets shredded from putting it in my backpack. If you know of something else, point me the way.

I recently ran across an article entitled "Speaker Wire A History" by Roger Russell at McIntosh Labs. His article Wirebusters is a good read. *Note: The above information in no way reflects the opinions of any persons associated with Head Case, or its members, unless they state so.

Okay, consider this a recommendation coming from very low expectations, and I know they've been around awhile, but picked up one of those GE LED+ BR30 bulbs (battery backup, multi-color, or Bluetooth speaker extra "addition") with the speaker option and it isn't half bad. The surrounding can rattles a little with bass, and should be considered, but not the bulb's fault. I mean again have proper expectations (think of the same mono driver in a similar sized, cheap desktop speaker), but it's kinda cool if you have a use case. Anyone else using?