Do It Yourself

For fun and experience (and because the KSC75 cable is too short), I would like to recable the KSC75 in my Frankenstein HD580/KSC75. I've seen Mogami and Canare minis recommended. I was looking at Mogami W2799 and W2893 since people claim Mogami is more flexible than Canare. Is one of these better than the other for flexibility? Anything else I should consider.

I recently bought a Stax SRM-T1W and in speaking with others online, have heard that the PSU caps might be "dried up" and it's recommended that they be changed by default. Reportedly, the unit sounds/functions fine and is in "like new" shape cosmetically, but I'd like to do the most basic of these changes if I end up keeping the unit as a nearly two decade old bit of electronics is still a nearly two decades old bit of electronics, no matter how it might look. So I'm considering this project my (re)introduction to Stax and so am intrigued/excited about working through a few minor mods, mostly in regards to extending longevity. Can anyone here recommend the PSU cap…

I bought this Audio Note Kits HE-6 headphone amp and had it built by a well known Audio Note kit builder, digitalpete. The amp sounds great with planar headphones but I have a problem I need help with. The volume control has a terrible scratch noise when adjusting the volume while music is playing. It will also produce the scratchy noise when the volume control is even touched while music is playing. When nothing is playing the sound is there but barely audible. I emailed digitalpete and he wants me to ship the amp back to put in a new volume pot. In looking at the khozmo volume pot it looks like there are only 11 connections to solder and all are easily accessible so…

I ran across a weird problem the other night when using my Dynalo (headamp V2 board). I have an amb e22 DC offset protection circuit on the output, and when I have a set of headphones plugged in (T50rp fostex) and the volume turned all the way down, the protect circuit activates (cycles). Once I turn the volume up a little it stops doing that and works normally. Before I dig into it to try to figure out why, I just thought I'd ask here to see if this might just be normal? EDIT: answered that. My work dynalo does not do this, and it also has an e22 on it. Same phones (not the same pair) as well.

enough people have been asking for this, we finally decided to do it. It was easy from the current layout. Best to stick with +/-400v power supplies http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/kgst.jpg

Not sure if this is the place, but I need knowleadgable people abou the subject so here we go: I study design and I'm thinking about building a hybrid headphone/computer speaker, and was thinking about the difficulties of this. I'm uncertain if it's at all possible, because I'd have to meet the sensitivity and dB output of both a regular speaker and a headphone speaker. And I can't actually design one (I'll only design the prototype around it), so I'd have to use something that's already out there. Sound quality is not really a concern, it just needs to be acceptable. One thing I considered was to have a regular driver (sort of those used in laptops) with some kin…

I have a spare cable for the Omega 2, which had broken close to an end to the phone, and I would like to make an extension cable with it. I also have a spare Pro bias female connector, which I had taken out of my SRM-727A when adding a normal bias out on it. I was wondering, how difficult would it be to use such connector on the spare cable, to make the extension cable I need? Should I use any particular care (with solder, for example) on it? Will it supposedly sound as good as the Stax 'official' one? Thank you!

I'm looking to give my headphone cables a more professional look like this http://redsecta.files.wordpress.com/2012/03/650cable.jpg I want to find splitters like this guy used

Anyone have a minijack (3.5mm stereo, panel mountable) that they like? I am having problems with a flaky Switchcraft 35RAP whatever they are, and need to replace. I have some Kobicon that I have used with no problems so far, but looking for any other suggestions.

Hopefully I'm at the right place this time. I want to build a kevin gilmore blue hawaii amp. As a starting point I found the original http://headwize.com/?page_id=751 and the more recent http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/BlueHawaii-T2-Servo-v1-2.zip (needs LTSpice). Is there a recent version without servo, with PCB's and all that? CCS is yet partly diskussed, has someone experiance with "mu follower Output" to decouple the complex loads partly from the tubes (see schematic)? What about a PS if no 500V pnp is found? From the PSRR viewpoint I'd start with the concept: "care about higher harmonics, PSRR can start to decrease at a cut-off in the 1 kHz region. And: …

I was inspired by Frank Cooter's PTP wiring amps he took to the LA meet. So inspired in fact, that I was thinking on building Kevin's KGTT. Besides him and Kerry (and probably Birgir), is there anybody out there who has built it and could post pics of their builds? My first clumsy attempt at a layout looks bad and it won't improve until I get all the components and have an idea of their size and shape. Hopefully it was done right A wood case, which I have never done, also sounds interesting. KGTT Layout a.pdf

So I don't make mistakes in my latest build I was wondering what is reccomended most. Should I twist the AC power leads on a torroid being used in a DAC? Should I twist the DC power hookup wire that will go from the PSU to the DAC board? I'm assuming I should always twist the signal wires...

I have a 30" Monitor that is awesome, but the Video Controller chip has issues with the Lead Free solder joints going cold and causing Video issues. The fix is for the board to be re-balled with Leaded Solder. Anybody know someone who could do this? Here's pix of the board: It's the Altera chip with the issue

Has anyone used a Khozmo Attenuator? They look extremely well built. I wonder how it sounds compared to a goldpoint or a dact

I've got the permission from Dr Gilmore for a second run of boards, so let's do it again. Linky to the spreadsheet: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AoNVeoQi85GgdFVrMmtReVpWNVBsQUo2Sl9iSkItM2c#gid=0 Please take a look at the notes before putting your needed quantity. If you want something extra (like a single PSU or amp), just put a note under Extra Requirement column. The Megatron is not fully-tested so if you really want to try it, do it at your own risk. Silkscreens for the boards: + Megatron: http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5489/9229564952_a344b73826_b.jpg + KGSSHV onboard: http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5340/9224679066_7e0d75ce72_b.jp…

Looks like a DIY ESL? Best regards Moray James.

Just got a chance to pull apart a pair of beyer T1 - a bit scary but pretty straight forward apart from the fact that the cable does not seem to be removable - had to cut it inside the cup to get it out. Here is a vid - may be handy if you are thinking of recabling or just fancy a peek inside Any questions - just ask http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XC72mCFOIWo

This one has been brewing for a while now but since I wanted to build a nice balanced amp it moved up in line. Basic setup is the same as the old Dynalo but now with Super Symmetry input, higher rail voltages and naturally a bit more power. Input stage changed to THAT340 which is a quad bipolar transistor array with matched NPN and PNP pairs. It is cheap and easy to source so no jfet drama. The other transistors are new as well and the pinout is different to reflect that. Here is a look at the new PCB design which is pretty much ready: It is 138*86mm. Another thing from the same vein is a fully discrete unbalanced to balanced circuit that we have …

Frigate

Corvette

Could someone point me to a schematic for re-termination of a Jade with a Stax Pro plug? Thanks, Jim

I happened to be reading the Head-Fi DIY forum today for the first time in probably a month or more and came across a thread that pointed at Par-Metals site. The short of it is there appears to have been a semi-catestrophic fire at Par-Metals office/warehouse at the end of January which has currently halted all production of enclosures. I checked Antec's site (the one I actually care about) and they are very limited in what they have as of 2/4 but are saying that they'll be restocked in one to two months. Anyway, just figured I'd give folks a heads up. I can work around the delay on for my project so it's no big deal.

Hey everyone, I was wondering if anyone on here makes wooden grado cups as I have a pair of Turbulence X drivers and am in need of some wooden cups to help complete my Magnums I'm building. I have very positive trader feedback on head-fi if anyone is willing to help me out. Cheers, Erich

I recently picked up a wireless charger for my phone that works well aside from the annoying inductor whine. I was thinking of dropping some hot glue on it to dampen the noise, but thought maybe folks here might have a better suggestion of what to use. Any suggestions on a better damping material than hot glue? Thanks

Does anyone know where I can get instructions for adjusting the bias on an SRM-T1? I would like to replace the tubes and it seemed logical to find out. Then again, maybe not. Who cares? Seriously though, any help would be appreciated.