Do It Yourself

I'm taking a Microelectronics lab course and we need to pick a particular not overly complicated circuit we think is interesting that is in the literature to build and test. If necessary, we are allowed to make use of the VLSI fabrication laboratory but have to design the layout ourselves. Any cool ideas people have for this project? Edit: Forgot to say that unless we provide the transistors/opamps/etc ourselves, we are using bog standard parts. 2N390x BJTs and ancient 4007 MOSFETs. Opamps are some newer version of the 1458.

I was thinking about slapping this together on a breadboard: https://www.fairchildsemi.com/application-notes/AN/AN-6610.pdf The transistors listed (92PU01 / 92PU51) must be ancient as I cannot find them. I ran across somewhat of a datasheet here: http://www.datasheets360.com/part/detail/92pu01/3582415256795608549/?alternatePartManufacturerId=0 It looks like a Fairchild KSD882Y might come close? Or could I use anything capable of a bit of power (such as MPSW06/56)? It would seem that an Ic of 2A on the 92PU01 is pretty high for what might be required here?

My previous query(ies) may have gotten buried. Given the somewhat religious fervor this topic seems to generate on other forums (without much technical justification for the most part; just assumption), I would like to know people's thoughts on this. My take from other reading seems to be if not shunt then you are a) a dumb ass, or b ) you just don't appreciate the best. I did read a critique/analysis on topic that discussed shunts presenting a more uniform impedance to the load, but then went into a discussion of a push-pull relationship via a shunt, versus a push only relationship with a linear reg. My specific interest is in a Salas shunt vs. GRLV plus for a phono…

Got a regular 24v psu (no minus voltage), 100k vol pot and a small case. Best amp to build?

Is there a general preference?

Thought some of you guys may be interested in these if you had not seen them. http://toolguyd.com/...-storage-boxes/

I'll soon have the need to switch between two different sources and amps and I'm two projects behind even starting my preamp. I want to put together a 2 in 2 out switch. If I use 4P2T switches how should I manage the shield (pin 1)? Or should I use 3P2T2D and not worry? I'm just trying to see if I can get away with 1 deck instead of two?

Porn and the Art of Vacuum TubeFabrication - Weblog - Mxrk Now that's what I call DIY

Toying with the idea for my Dynamite. Anyone hear the Goldpoint smd design vs the Dact? How about feel? Just put in a 4-ch Alps blue velvet pot, to replace a cheapo I had. I also put in pre-attenuation resistors cause I had the old pot turned to almost off for the levels to be right. Much better.

I have 6 pcs 6088 tube, with this spec : I want to build tube Amps with 2x9v battery. Anyone has headphone amps schematic with this tube

Hi, I'm wanting to buy a VariAC. Here's one from MPJA, hows it look? 2KVA 0-130VAC VARIABLE TRANSFORMER-MPJA, Inc. This one seems to have the amperage to do anything. Les

Anybody seen these yet? Pretty damn sexy, really. Hopefully they are easy to get hold of...... Walnut Chassis with Aluminum Top Panel Steel Chassis & Bottom Plates with Walnut Side Panels Aluminum Chassis & Bottom Plates with Walnut Side Panels Example:

Does anybody here have any experience with hot air rework station soldering? Anything to look for or avoid? And, how does this compare to flood and suck or toaster oven soldering? I was looking at this one as being in my price range and having generally good Amazon reviews.

Hey, I'm having a slot milled that will accept a piece of aluminum bar that is nominally 0.5" wide. How wide should I have the slot milled in order to ensure that the bar can be easily removed? I'm not sure what the tolerances are on aluminum bar and not really sure what extra width to account for that doesn't require a hammer to (re)move the piece.

Hi, I know there are many schematics like this but this aims to be a very cheap amplifier for the estats and it should be better than the SRD boxes. The power supply for tube has +-300 V and there will be four windings on transformer for heaters. I know I can not trust the simulation so I think it will have a maximum output voltage around 500 V peak to peak with some luck, probably less. I took the CSS from SRX+, so credit goes to JimL. Output current is set to 6mA per one output. So 12mA per channel. I added small feedback to stabilize it with 470k resistors. My goal is to make a small cheap amplifier. Voltage output is rather small than other amps bu…

What standards are people using for reterminating these? I'm planning on a single 4-pin XLR rather than 2 3-pin as it is less cumbersome. Does a male connector on the phones with pin 1 for R+, 2 for R-, 3 for L-, and pin 4 for L+, and 2 and 3 connected together for use in single ended amps sound right? Also, anyone know the stock Grado wire colors before I cut this thing apart? If it matters, these are RS-1's bought about 6 years ago.

Hey guys, I finally found a good home in a small space for the Moth Cicadas I purchased many moons ago, and the room is conducive enough that I can really notice a bit of variance in the drivers. I have a set of unused spare drivers I'd like to sub in, to see if they are more to my liking. The only trouble is, I have no clue how to remove the old drivers. The cicada enclosure is ported, but the port is too small to fit a hand in, so I can't push the driver out from the back. It fits in the cabinet pretty snugly, so I don't have enough room to fit a spudger in around the edge and pry it up. Furthermore, being paper cones, I run the risk of damaging the old driver is I …

Saw some talk about this and decided to make a new version. use either the tube unbal/bal to bal board, or the solid state version result is about 125 watts rms into 8 ohms at thd of .005% will definitely drive 4 ohms with suitably large power supplies. transistors are standard pinout, so pick your favorite output transistors. the to220 transistors are mje15034/mje15035 perfect for so many things, including esl boost transformers. pioneera09.pdf

I'm not sure if this is the right place but I guess DIYers should understand better whats going on inside the DAC. Basically the Northstar doesn't lock with the upscaling activated and just blinks wildly, If I turn off the upscaling before it starts blinking it will play without a problem but if I let a few minutes with it on, it goes wild and won't let me deactivate the upscaling. When this happens if I connect any transport it immediately does that even without music. Any idea what this could be and if it can be fixed ?

I have some Grado Aluminum headset blocks that I got from the guy in Malaysia. I've been trying to find someone who will do a small job like this but have been unsuccessful so far. I would like to get R and L milled into them with the square border areound the letters like on the Factory plastic blocks. Anybody have any suggestion for someone who would do something like this?

http://korgnutube.com/en/ SMD tube?

Well its done K701 recabled with Mogami 2534 Neglex Copper Quad Mic Cable. Nate had a supply of it, along with the black 3/16" Nylon Multifilament techflex, so I asked him if he could strip the jacket and shield off the Mogami, and feed it through the techflex, which he graciously did Here are some pics (some not so good) of the job: Stock cable Mogami laid into the K701 frame Preparing the 4-pin XLR end of the cable A happy ending On the other ear phone there are two small wires which I have not replaced, but I may leave them for now.

I wanted to re-terminate an HD650 cable to 4pin XLR. What is the best way to strip off the black sleeve without cutting one of the tiny wires? I was trying to carefully clip it with small wire cutters but I keep snipping one of the little wires. I also tried a wire stripper and that was worse. Will it make much difference if one of the wires is not connected (as long as the majority are)? Also, I see that the HD650 cable doesn't have shielding so I assume one doesn't anything to the 5th metal connector.

The mains cable (crappy 2-wire zip cord) on my SRD-Pro is a bit old and warn, and seems way too long. I would like to replace it with something that's of better quality. Of all the better (google results) power cable I've seen, it's all three wire, some shielded and some not. One article on Belden's three-wire shielded (#83803) mention constructing so that at the plug end, the shield wrap and the the ground wire are connected to the wall plug. At the component end, leave the shield floating; use the shield to capture interference traveling through the cable (in or out) and to ground them to earth so they do not cause any unwanted noise. My question is, if I choose a…

Hi STAX guys, first of all greetings from Munich, Germany. Within the last weeks i read a lot in your huge STAX Threads and learned a lot about the moddings that can be done throughout the hole STAX product line. But to be honest I lost control about the information I got. That is the reason why I opened a new thread. I own a STAX SRM-1 MK2 (early A-Serie) (my father bought it in 1983 when I was born 😊 ) and it has the very early number A5327. In the PDF you can see the wiring diagram which is for units beginning with number A5494 (so different from mine). The unit was not in use within the last 20 years and I already replaced the electrolytic caps (Nichicon LKX…