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What Are You Building Today

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  • So Tice removed a deck at his job site, which is Armistead Maupin's former home. In his genius he recognized it to be Brazilian Ipe that was only screwed down from one side. The new owner eventually a

  • Just put up some shelves and cabinets in the shop space preparing for making things again!

  • The Cherry is lighter than the speakers, but will darken quickly next to the window. I have a vented front plate coming for the top space. The cooling fan sits in that space, and is really quiet.

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  • Author

A small discrete buffer - prototypes have been created, will fire them up tomorrow.

b855f1b2e52508c90f201d9d767900c9.jpg

Neat Marc... I like how you used the SIP pins on that. Resistor leads into them? Creative...

  • Author
Neat Marc... I like how you used the SIP pins on that. Resistor leads into them? Creative...


Perhaps something like this?

a8ea2bfd7b74c0ad279eb4df5ed84319.jpg
18 hours ago, Craig Sawyers said:

You can also get the Neutrik RCA's in an XLR housing, which looks kind of cool.

nf2d-b-0.jpg?v=1

I know, but that meant a larger back panel which wouldn't fit my target enclosure. 

DSC00296.JPG

It's a test board. I like natural colored PCBs.

  • 2 weeks later...

Not audio exactly but my new modem has been overheating causing it to drop connection and restart all the time. I took it apart and the silicone pad for the heatsink wasn't installed right. Since I had it open, I grabbed a bigger one out of the old parts bin, tapped a couple new holes in the sink to fit the board mounts and notched the cover so the heatpipe could fit through and used proper paste for the mating surface. Works perfectly and runs way cooler now. I need that reliable internet to waste time here after all.

 

Old sink on the right

uWSPSpa.jpg

 

KBrRCIA.jpg

 

 

I have been using my Twisted Pear Audio Buffalo II DAC with a Volumite digital volume control for a few years. Earlier this year I decided to expand it to a dual-mono setup. In the process I also added the Amanero/Hermes/Cronus/Rhea USB-i2s adapter with isolation and re-clocking. 

I used two chassis I have purchased some time ago and house the PSU in its own, separate chassis. A Placid HD powers the digital section and GR LV powers the Legato I/V converter and "The Wire" balanced headphone amp (the small module on the left side of the chassis).

B II - front.JPG

B II - rear.JPG

Buffalo II - top.JPG

Buffalo II PSU.JPG

What cases are those? Something like this?

^ that, the AL316S.

Be forewarned though, a friend and I ordered 4 chassis together. Three of them turned out great. One of them the panels were badly mis-aligned, the top cover was not even rectangular in shape. An inquiry to the mechant received no response. 

Edited by mwl168

  • Author

That sucks. Those guys have been pretty easy to get a hold of in the past too.

I have some small PCBs to use on the various switches and I/O jacks somewhere - if anyone wants them I can find them. Also, if you have extra pieces from that fourth chassis, I would be interested if shipping is cheap.

One other piece of advice - use a smaller washer on the toroid. This picture will give you a hint why:

e04d0b96f0d7b38b9130a212d2505fbd.png



(yes, that piece of copper is not insulated)

Good to know. Thanks! I'll look for a smaller washer to use and maybe cut a piece of sobathane to fit underneath the washer.

The mis-aligned chassis happen to be the one my friend used for me to build him a Buffalo III DAC. It's the larger AL421B. I managed to get the pieces somewhat fit together but the cover is a lost cause. Below is a photo of this Buffalo III in the AL421B chassis. The module in the front is a Rev C Dynalo. 

I'll be interested in those PCBs if you can find them. I can probably use them in the PSU I am building for my KG ES amps.

 

 

B III.JPG

Edited by mwl168

  • Author

I have a PCB for the front power switch that mounts a LED in the proper spot, the rear quad RCA which breaks that into a header and a rotary switch for the knob that allows remote control of relays and some LED indication on which state the knob is in. I can post pictures this weekend.

  • 1 month later...
  • Author

I added some LEDs to my phono stage. I used LM317 in the spirit of the original Pass Xono. Wanted something subtle and channeled Nate a bit on hatred of bright blue LEDs ;)

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  • Author

Upgraded outlets to let the basses through.

4f89d984b03255cd15b33b8b9bec3ac4.jpg

At least the plugs stay plugged in now

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There needs to be Decora-style versions, seriously so they can match my other outlets. Srsly.

But... But... But... Those aren't Oyaide! :rofl:

I assume you have 20A wiring/breaker as well? And agree regarding Decora.

Always interesting to see what you are up to; like the Pass phono as well above.

  • Author

I did skimp on the $200 Furutech outlet covers... I upgraded to the $0.40 vinyl over the $0.20 plastic covers instead.

3 hours ago, Craig Sawyers said:

But, but - they are upside down! The bases will come out with the wrong phase

I agree with Mr Sawyers.  Unlike climate change , outlet theory is well established.  Additionally, as bass weighs more than treble, with an upside down outlet, you will lose a lot of your bass to ground.  This is a leading cause of systems that sound bright.  The devil is in the details.

5 hours ago, luvdunhill said:

I did skimp on the $200 Furutech outlet covers... I upgraded to the $0.40 vinyl over the $0.20 plastic covers instead.

Big mistake!  Cheap covers allow the active electrons to escape.

Me

The ground pin should always be on the bottom.                   unless you live in Australia........   :P

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