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Well, as you can tell color matching is hard - as is photographing color differences. Trying to choose between the four swatches here for some grills and having a hard time because the wood looks different in various lighting..




I am leaning towards the far left (towards the window). None really match anyways, so could do black.

Oh also, a bunch of these. Pretty amateur but they should look nice enough. I have a mounting scheme I am hatching.


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So Tice removed a deck at his job site, which is Armistead Maupin's former home. In his genius he recognized it to be Brazilian Ipe that was only screwed down from one side. The new owner eventually a

The Cherry is lighter than the speakers, but will darken quickly next to the window. I have a vented front plate coming for the top space. The cooling fan sits in that space, and is really quiet.

Just put up some shelves and cabinets in the shop space preparing for making things again!

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No, seriously, you all are putting way too much thought into this, they'd all look fine in a large enough swath.  I'd base it on what it does to the sound.  Are they all the same thickness/weight/density-of-weave/etc.?  I'd use the thinnest, most inert, least "muffling" material.  Synthetic over organic materials.  I was actually going to regrill my old pioneers with lace at one point.

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On 7/16/2016 at 9:18 AM, MASantos said:

Long time since I posted around here but I thought I'd come by and show my latest DIY projects:

First Watt F4 running on +- 32V


At the moment I'm using a Millett Hibrid as preamp until I finish th BA3FE for preamp duties.


Salas Folded Phono Stage, waiting for the front and back panels to arive from milling for final assembly.


PSU for preamp


Very nice! Any impressions on the phono preamp?

On 10/12/2016 at 9:41 PM, luvdunhill said:

Smoke test passed and the new board fits!



Nice Marc! What series/manuf. are those connectors you are using? Hirose? Looking for 5.08mm pitch alternatives to the Molex SPOX that I use some.

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Exceptionally beautiful modern TP-1s. 

Did you go whole hog with PM-4A Lowthers in them? Back in the day, I used PM-7As, PM-2Cs  and PM-5As in front loaded Chapman horns. I don't think you can't get enough alnico flux in those drivers to make them even MOAR BETTER. 

Also, light bulb diffusers help to minimise HF beaming. 

Geez, I'd love to hear your setup. 

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Nice Marc! What series/manuf. are those connectors you are using? Hirose? Looking for 5.08mm pitch alternatives to the Molex SPOX that I use some.

They are TE Mate-N-Lok. I rather like them:

Exceptionally beautiful modern TP-1s. 
Did you go whole hog with PM-4A Lowthers in them?

I am using DX4s. I could resize the compression chamber with some blocks and retro fit the PM-4As easily enough though. Do they come up reasonably on the used market?
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Never seen Lowther PM-4As on the used market, going back 20+ years. The magnets are huge beasts, needing a rear bracket to take the weight load off of the front flange.


Got my Lowthers when Tony Glynn first established Lowther America. Heard most of the old and new variants in my horns at that time. My preferences were always for the alnico motors. YMMV.

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On 16/10/2016 at 6:49 PM, Pars said:

Very nice! Any impressions on the phono preamp?

Well I haven't tested the preamp alone. I replaced a Rega Brio integrated with the salas phono stage,  BA3 pre and F4 power amps. Overall the improvement was very impressive. Much better control of the low end and also a wider soundstage with more "air". Overall the sound is quite "musical, but not the most detailed.( the ba3 is not know for being the most detailed amplifier out there.). When I connect a digital source there is also some improvement so I can say the the phono stage is responsible for some of that nice sound!

Here are the latest pics:



Dirty psu section with line filter. Dual mono PSU umbilical.



The black knob works as on/off switch, input selection and volume control. When turned on there are 2 numeric led displays on behind the black acrylic for volume display. 64 steps 


Control board for the attenuator/source selector. Remote control receiver on the front side, 


Cat5 wiring for signal.


Salas SSLV regulators, BA3 front end at 30V and relaixed passive attenuator. using vishay self resistors. The control board for the attenuator is in the front panel and the power relay/5V control voltage section pcb is in the psu case. 8 wire umbilical carries control wiring and dual mono DC for the regulators.




"gain" is the output from the BA3 preamp, "0db" does not have any active circuitry in the signal, so it is a passive preamp output, "loop" simply outputs the selected source, so it is just a source selector.


The two AC female connectors are controlled by the preamp on/off relay switch (10A/250V), so when I turn the preamp on I can turn 2 other devices at the same time. ATM using one of them for the phono stage, might feed a DAC in the future with the other one. 


Preamp PSU.


System in my DIY oak rack (solid oak kitchen countertop cut to size)


A small video of the system playing, you can see the F4 power amplifier behind the left speaker. It will eventually be placed in the large lower opening in the rack, but I need to build ventilator to extract all the heat (200W) from those heatsinks. Some sort of undershelf with 140mm computer fans is on the way.


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9 hours ago, mwl168 said:

Very very nice builds. Congrats!

Do those L shaped brackets come with the chassis or something you added on your own?

The ones supporting the front panel? They are an extra from hifi2000 to make the front panel without visible mounting holes.

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