And I'd have a hard time with the Elma with only 24 steps.

 

Elma has a 46. And Shalco has a 63.

Elma has a 46. And Shalco has a 63.

Clearly my memory is a few steps short.

Edit - Google says the Elma still has 24, got a link to the ones with 63?

http://www.elma.com/en-eu/products/rotary-switches/audio-solutions/product-pages/a47-series-audio-attenuator-detail/

 

http://switch-products.shallco.com/item/rotary-switches/rotary-switches-industrial-and-military-grade/114-fm

 

My experience is that the people at Elma are super nice and helpful. The people at Shallco are not. And I have been told from reputable people to expect to disassembled the Shallco to try to get it to align correctly.

Sweet! I had an Elma in one of my amps, it was quite nice. Bummer about Shalco.

Am in need of sourcing some 340mm x 165mm single flanged or flat back heatsinks (and I'll get my own custom L plates made to house the dozen or so T03 output transistors) that is capable of dissipitating 300watts peak of thermal output heat. 

 

Conrad Heatsinks located down here in Aus in my state doesn't seem to be contactable as I've sent two emails and no reply.

 

Any further heap is greatly appreciated as I'm desperate to get this power amp going. (One of the fins broken off, so either new alu sinks or somehow grind and finish the broken bit off).

 

Thanks

I had Fischer make some 350*150mm sinks for me recently.  I also have some Conrad from a group buy on DIYA years back.  I'll have to find them and measure the exact dimensions. 

How was the price, shipping and the turn around time from to start to finish to get the hs completed?

I bought two dozen as they won't sell you just a few.  Took a few weeks as this is custom extruded .  Price was good but the shipping was crazy expensive.  Sending aluminum UPS will do that... 

Conrad Heatsinks located down here in Aus in my state doesn't seem to be contactable as I've sent two emails and no reply.

 

I had Conrad fail to respond to emails a few months ago. Once they finally did, they were very apologetic and offered me a big discount. I think someone there is just disorganized, so I'd try again.

 

Not your exact size, but HeatsinkUSA might be an option.

DefQon,

I have a pair of virgin Conrad flat back heatsinks sitting around from a too long put off F5 project. I believe they are the 350mm long versions. If interested, PM me offline and I can check further and I'm sure we can work something out.

I had Fischer make some 350*150mm sinks for me recently.  I also have some Conrad from a group buy on DIYA years back.  I'll have to find them and measure the exact dimensions. 

 

I believe the DIYA GB ones were Conrads 350mm profile in 151.5 (6") length - at least the two Conrad GBs I recall seeing.

 

 

//UFN

Edited February 21, 201511 yr by UFN

Conrad's product list indicate they have flat backs in that sized profile (350mm x 151.5mm) but the single flanged are limited to 300mm only. It's about $55 AUD a piece for the MF35 so it's pretty cheap considering I'm about 10km's drive away from them.

Anyone know a good place to buy iec punches stateside? Are they easier to work with than "grinding it out" with a drill press?

On/off switches? Many folks here have ones with built in lights, are those standard issue? Looking for something nice. Other suggestions?

Edited February 23, 201511 yr by Earspeakers

Anyone know a good place to buy iec punches stateside? Are they easier to work with than "grinding it out" with a drill press?

http://www.mouser.com/Greenlee/Tools-Supplies/Tools/Punches-Dies/_/N-5ggeZ1z0zl5j

But they have their limitations.

Anyone know a good place to buy iec punches stateside? Are they easier to work with than "grinding it out" with a drill press?

Just curious, what is your process? You might enjoy Morgan Jones' "Building Tube Amplifiers" as he goes though a lot of things that even an experienced circle hole cutter tech might be able to learn from.

Spoiler: he answers your question

Just curious, what is your process? You might enjoy Morgan Jones' "Building Tube Amplifiers" as he goes though a lot of things that even an experienced circle hole cutter tech might be able to learn from.

Spoiler: he answers your question

 

Thanks for reminding me I purchased that book during some o'reilly sale. He only mentions Greenlee as a supplier of these

 

I've been bs-ing shapes by drilling holes to approximate things, then filing the rest out with a dremel. 

Step drill bit for XLR holes. I don't know about everyone else but I've been finding them pretty annoying to work with lately.

 

I saw Spritzer's pics of a broken punch and I figured I'd give it a shot.

He talks about how to cut shapes, read again, it's even complete with a progression of pictures. The example is a transformer, trapezoidal shape of sorts.

The "jeweler's saw" / "piercing saw" works wonders and it's quite simple to use.

Edit: perhaps it's only in the newest version of the book... Regardless, I already gave up the farm

Edited February 23, 201511 yr by luvdunhill

http://www.mouser.com/Greenlee/Tools-Supplies/Tools/Punches-Dies/_/N-5ggeZ1z0zl5j

But they have their limitations.

 

i have a whole bunch of greenlee punches from .5 inch thru 3 inches

The only way to go for chassis up to 3/16 inch thick

 

i even bought a square one for doing the iec sockets.

 

birgir can supply pictures of what happens when you try to use them on 10mm

panels

Ahemmmm...

 

 

As it happens I just got some new punches in from the UK today.  Douglas helped me out as RS were being dicks...  

What does everyone use to run wires along the amp chassis? I was thinking of clamps like these from Mouser, but am wondering if there is something neater. Maybe something with two eye holes instead of just one?

Well, my matched octet of EL84 tubes arrived today.  The first thing I did with them is run them through my Jackson 658A tester.  On initial testing, everything tested well except that on 4 of the 8 tubes, there was flashing on shorts test K (the first shorts test).

 

After finishing the initial test, I decided to retest the 4 failing tubes being sure to give them plenty of time to warm up.  The first 2 tubes I tried then passed shorts test K with no problem. The third tube still has a flashing problem with this test. The last tube arced when I inserted it into the tester. By arced I mean that there is an extremely bright, flashing, white light.

 

To be sure that my tester wasn't the problem, I reinserted a tube that originally passed shorts test K. It exhibited normal behavior including still passing test K.

 

So I have 1 defective for sure and 3 other suspect tubes.  I sent a message to the seller asking him to suggest a resolution to this problem.  We'll see what he says.  Do you think that I should insist on all 4 (potentially) bad tubes being replaced or just the one that arced?

 

I guess I need to see if JJ EL84 have a reputation for being "fragile".  At least it happened in my tester and not my amp.

Matched != burned in, obviously. Sorry about the bad luck.

In this day and age when you can buy a basic CNC for around $500, I don't know why anyone would get out a jewelers saw.

Because the saw costs $10, doesn't require software to use among other things?