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Part Sourcing Assistance/Advice Thread


n_maher

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Because the saw costs $10, doesn't require software to use among other things?

 

Yeah setting up and programming CNC isn't easy. It's a skill that takes practice and time like everything else. I have access to a full manual machine shop at work (Bridgeport, etc) and I prefer outsourcing to a professional when possible. 

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Ken,

It's not uncommon for the shorts light to flash during testing. If you get a consistent short that's when there's a problem. The arcing that you witnesses might have something to do with putting a somewhat hot tube back into a live socket, but I'm not an expert about that. I'd try retesting that tube when it's stone cold and see what happens.

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Chinese trimpots?

Has anyone tried these Bourns "clones" on ebay, such as this one? Funny, they use "Burans" but same font more or less as Bourns uses.

 

I have a few of these and haven't noticed anything peculiar about them as compared to an actual Bourns, but wondered if there are any hidden gotchas, such as abnormal drift, etc.?

 

EDIT: I see some posts on diyaudio about these, one in particular stating that the fakes are carbon vs. the cermet of the actual bourns. I'll buy the bourns...

Edited by Pars
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Ken,

It's not uncommon for the shorts light to flash during testing. If you get a consistent short that's when there's a problem. The arcing that you witnesses might have something to do with putting a somewhat hot tube back into a live socket, but I'm not an expert about that. I'd try retesting that tube when it's stone cold and see what happens.

 

Thanks for the advice, Nate.  I retested this morning and all 8 tubes passed with no bright, white flashing.  Two of them still blinked during the K shorts test, but I won't worry about that now.  I told the seller about this and that the tubes were all acceptable.

 

I also was able to solve another problem today.  The fuse blew, probably due to contact cleaner in the volume pot.  That was a couple of weeks ago.  I removed the fuse and put the holder back into the upright tube that holds the fuse.  Without a fuse, I managed to jam holder in the tube.  I was finally able to remove it today with the help of WD40 and a paper clip, that I straightened and put a small hook on the bottom.  A new fuse is now installed.  I'll install the tubes tomorrow and see how everything works.

 

Edit:

 

Installed the JJ's and gave it a try.  My systems is now playing the beautiful, beautiful music again. :)

Edited by guzziguy
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Thanks for that. Not sure they are willing to ship down under Aussie or a minimum order. 

 

I'm using the cable as single ended entry on the one opening side of my Sony ECR 400 which has been converted to a full blown e-stat. I'm a broke bastard and don't want to spend over $100 on a new pro-bias Stax cable from my distributor that I'm going to chop up so I've got a hand full of low HV rated male and female 6 pin DIN connectors and just need some wires now. I do have one old Stax 5 pin connector that I'll use to make an adaptor for.

 

So far my ECR-400 is converted. Next up is my ECR-500, then a electret SR-60 which I've disassembled the driver to the bone and re-mylar'd but not sure how I'm going to connect the bias hookup wire to it. :/

 

No luck so far on ebay besides really thick lighting hookup wire electricians use, again not really applicable for the task I need it for. Something like an HV rated ribbon cable will do as well, again no luck on ebay unless I'm not using the right keywords for the right results.

Edited by DefQon
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I'm a taking woodworking class and my project is to build a turntable stand.  Would anyone have recommendations for furniture spikes?  They need to be adjustable (leveling) and be able to support at least 150 lbs.  I'm building it out of white oak and the legs and shelves weigh about 80 lbs.  I'm thinking of something like this from Dayton, but am open to other suggestions.

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