Holy crap, those monitors are awesome. But the guns scare me.

Edition 8 rectangled:

Good sight, even highlighted I really can't say what are those, nor that they're atop a Stax amp

I hope they are just BB guns.

I'm trying to change the power configuration of my SRM-T1 from 100v to 220 v.

I have opened it up, and on the bottom side of the pcb is what looks to be a large black plastic switch. The underside of the pcb is marked 100v in the position the black switch is in, with 220 v marked in what would seem to be the position the switch can move into. The pcb seems to allow for about half a centimetre of movement.

My problem - I can't slide what I think is the switch. I don't want to force it, in case I am wrong and break things. I haven't yet unscrewed the pcb from the chassis. Do you slide this, something else, or change the voltage in a totally diferent way?

Pictures:

What I think is the switch is the large black rectangle underneath the pcb. I am guessing, based on what is written on the pcb, that if it moves to the right of this position, that is the 220 v option.

I hope they are just BB guns.

No, those aren't BB guns.

I dont know the guy, but I am a weapons expert

and also a fanatic in that regard. That looks to be a real armory.

Just like the O2's in the pic look to be real Stax cans.

Then again, it is just a pic.

Could be a room full of plastic movie props.

What gets me salivating though is the Barrett M82 50cal sniper rifle up top

along with the 50 cal Browning M2 Bar belt fed on the far right.

Coupled with some depleted uranium tracer ammo, that is some ultimate personal firepower.

Then again, it is just a pic.

Could be a room full of plastic movie props.

What gets me salivating though is the Barrett M82 50cal sniper rifle up top

along with the 50 cal Browning M2 Bar belt fed on the far right.

Coupled with some depleted uranium tracer ammo, that is some ultimate personal firepower.

If this guy's in California, it's probably movie props. Unless they lifted the ban on 50 cals there.

[quote name='livewire' timestamp='1296289925'

What gets me salivating though is the Barrett M82 50cal sniper rifle up top

along with the 50 cal Browning M2 Bar belt fed on the far right.

Coupled with some depleted uranium tracer ammo, that is some ultimate personal firepower.

I'm trying to change the power configuration of my SRM-T1 from 100v to 220 v.

I have opened it up, and on the bottom side of the pcb is what looks to be a large black plastic switch. The underside of the pcb is marked 100v in the position the black switch is in, with 220 v marked in what would seem to be the position the switch can move into. The pcb seems to allow for about half a centimetre of movement.

My problem - I can't slide what I think is the switch. I don't want to force it, in case I am wrong and break things. I haven't yet unscrewed the pcb from the chassis. Do you slide this, something else, or change the voltage in a totally diferent way?

Pictures:

What I think is the switch is the large black rectangle underneath the pcb. I am guessing, based on what is written on the pcb, that if it moves to the right of this position, that is the 220 v option.

Try to remove the bottom panel.... Then you can pull out the plug and turn it to what even voltage you want.

Then again, it is just a pic.

Could be a room full of plastic movie props.

What gets me salivating though is the Barrett M82 50cal sniper rifle up top

along with the 50 cal Browning M2 Bar belt fed on the far right.

Coupled with some depleted uranium tracer ammo, that is some ultimate personal firepower.

Try to remove the bottom panel.... Then you can pull out the plug and turn it to what even voltage you want.

Thanks -I'm sorted.

I didn't realize the bottom panel could be removed independent of the pcb - it looked to me that my only access was to remove the entire pcb. Gotta love Japanese engineering!

never be sorry for being a smart ass.

That is the Brit in me - we apologise for everything, in many ways. Mine was the smart ass way of saying sorry

Hey guys,

I have a pair of SR-3's that's been giving me trouble. I thought I wouldn't be able to get them apart but I finally did. I inspected the mylar which still seems to be taught and in good condition. Lately it seems that the mylar though has started sticking to the stator after an extended period of use. Pulling the plug and using my hand to short the pins I hear the mylar slowly creep and release with a pop.

Looking inside the SR-3 I noticed one thing different from the SR-5 and I'm wondering why it's there. It looks like a large value resistor, but it isn't labeled with anything substantial. Furthermore I used a DMM and can't get a resistance rating on it. Thoughts?

Fark...... My O2 developed channel imbalance. Left louder than right. In my kgss roughly about 3 clicks more on the right to make it balanced. I live in asia, bought it from head-fi users around 1year ago. FWIR ,Yamasinc service is out of question although I can courier to them. Any suggestions ? Maybe a DIY troubleshoot ? Or Im screwed ?

You should take a look at the list of the official STAX overseas distributors here. You should be able to secure a RMA even if you are past your first year of warranty, that's what my local distributor told me when i got mine.

thanks, thing is i bought this from US user and US distributor Yamasinc is already known for their un-responsiveness of treating RMA. I dont want to end up sending the o2 for them and they sit on it for 6 months before taking any action. i would like to hear from some more experienced stats user here.......

My post was actually directed to Shike with the SR-3s but i do hope you get the channel imbalance sorted out as well. I'm actually experiencing some channel imbalance with my SR-507s too and have sent them for RMA. Hopefully it won't take too long.

My post was actually directed to Shike with the SR-3s but i do hope you get the channel imbalance sorted out as well. I'm actually experiencing some channel imbalance with my SR-507s too and have sent them for RMA. Hopefully it won't take too long.

.

This could end in tears.........

Edited February 19, 201115 yr by wink

.

This could end in tears.........

Hopefully not, since my local distributor did promise that he would order a new one for me which will arrive in 1-2weeks once the channel imbalance has been ascertained.

Yeah, i have heard about horror stories about people getting their STAX fixed in a timely manner and i'll be sure to report back on the process.

My post was actually directed to Shike with the SR-3s but i do hope you get the channel imbalance sorted out as well. I'm actually experiencing some channel imbalance with my SR-507s too and have sent them for RMA. Hopefully it won't take too long.

SR-3's are around 30-40 years old, there's no old stock parts left for them. However I removed the Silistar and it seems to have cured the issue. Got to give it a weeks time to test it fully, but it may work yet.

It's always a good idea to remove the old protection systems from these phones since they don't age well. The drivers will easily last another 50 years. You can always install some back-to-back 451V zener diodes if you want protection for the drivers.

As for the SR-007, just run the amp for a week playing music and the imbalance should go away. It can also happen when the weather changes as humidity is a factor here.

thanks spritzer. i live in quite a humid place, would doing like what you advised above work as well ?

Run them for a while, unplugging the set and shorting the pins to ground should help. It is also a good idea to increase the volume level a bit over normal levels since more voltage helps.

thanks again birgir......will try and report back the result

Who sells Omega II MK2 headphones right now?