Do It Yourself

I was wondering if anyone knows what type of material is used for the inside tube of the z-sleeve? The outside looks like a giant piece of heatshrink. And the inside is some type of tube, but what kind of material and where could I buy tubing like this? http://www.6moons.com/audioreviews/zcable1/sleeve.html Thank you, Biggie

Just a head's up: Fry's has the Hakko 936 in their weekend advert (at least in the Atlanta area) for $50.00. (Can someone please change the title to Hakko 936. Thanks)

I know I've seen it here before, but couldn't find it with a couple of searches. Someone told me to avoid the auto center punches at harbor freight and get one from ebay. I took a look on ebay, and see a number of $4.95 ones, plus some Starrett's that are going to go over $10 or $15. Any recommendations? Thanks, Chris

How crazy lazy would it be for me to buy 3 of these and slap them into an enclosure, with a single big ass toroid transformer? It would be an 6 channel amp, I'd probably not use the 6th channel, as my speaker set up is 5.1 right now. Any recommendations for a Toroid feeding 3 of these? AMP5 kit - Tripath TA2022 41Hz Audio:AMP5 kit Although, I might just get one for starters and build a small desktop amp for 2 channel speaker set up for my computer workstation. -Ed

Someone has emailed me looking for someone to build a regulated 12v power supply that will work in france, along with the cable to make an apogee AD500 work from it. I can provide contact information, etc.

Well I traded for a pair of ALO jenna cable rewired 701s and of course the left channel is cutting out on me at the earcup. I have a 4 conductor extension that highflyin9 did for me a while back that is totally transparent to me so I thought I would use that cable to rewire these. Ken did a second entry so I am all set up to attempt to wire them balanced but I can't seem to be able to get into the earcup has anyone done these yet. I would stick with the jenna wire but it is all of 5 feet and I need a min of 10ft any help would be appreciated

so due to a comment i made over there, someone wanted to know if i had the eddie current dht filament schematic. here it is. eddiecurrentfilament.PDF

I managed to pick up a pair of vintage RS-1 (wooden box, brown leather headband, no serial number). However there's no sound out coming out of the right driver. I'm able to unscrew the 1/4 plug and the wires seem okay. Looking into the grill, again the wires seem fine. I'll check the wires against ground with a multimeter when I get home. However, in case worse comes to worse, is there a knack to getting access to the drivers? I've read about sharp screwdrivers, hot water and hair dryer and even spoons ( http://www.headwize.com/projects/showfile.php?file=grado_prj.htm ) though it seems to have been done mostly on plastic or metal-bodied Grados and not wooden o…

I saw this in a post somewhere and assumed it was a typo, but it is in fact real. Here's a linky to the page: http://focus.ti.com/docs/prod/folders/print/opa827.html. Aparently an upgrade to the 627. I'm a big fan of the 627 (I know, it's just an opamp, discrete rules, yadda yadda), so I'm quite anxious to hear what this new flagship is all about.

I'd love to hear your impressions it's not every day that a different crossfeed circuit comes about but, when it does, it's worth trying. Unfortunately I don't have any 18K resistors to hand (everything else but ) have ordered some and they will be here Tuesday...... in the meantime if any of you finger on the iron fast guns feel like trying it out and giving feedback it would be appreciated. Feedback in this thread here please, my joint couldn't handle the bandwith, Just thought I'd put this by you guys and trust you'll appreciate it. Pinkie.

What standards are people using for reterminating these? I'm planning on a single 4-pin XLR rather than 2 3-pin as it is less cumbersome. Does a male connector on the phones with pin 1 for R+, 2 for R-, 3 for L-, and pin 4 for L+, and 2 and 3 connected together for use in single ended amps sound right? Also, anyone know the stock Grado wire colors before I cut this thing apart? If it matters, these are RS-1's bought about 6 years ago.

I've acquired some parts that need to be put to use... don't know what project would be appropriate though. I've got 2 PCBs for an adjustable power supply that can put out a max output of 2A and a voltage of under 25V. I've also got some tube prototype boards with 2 9-pin sockets on each, like this: What I need is an idea of what I can do with these parts... something with 12au/x7 perhaps?

Looking for some one to build me 3 pin XLR's To Rca , or 1/4"'s to RCA to hook my Begringer DEQ2496 to my headphone amp. Can anybody help me out?

We're doing a quick moving T2 board set group buy; there are two members and we have a quote for two more (but will go ahead regardless). Specs are ... FR4Blue solder MaskWhite silkscreen2.36 mm thicknessENIG3 oz cuIPC-class 2100% e-TestedThe buy consists of a set of the full sized boards; one power supply and one amplifier board, $225 for the set + shipping and PayPal fees. Post interest here and we will close the buy in one week. If we have more then 4 participants the price will be lower.

I have question about how to hold a rubber sealing ring in place when closing two halves of an electronic component. I'm trying to assemble a backup controller for my ebike. I want to match up the good front from one controller with the good back from another. There is a rubber seal to go between them. The problem I'm having is that the seal won't stay in its groove dry. Would it be ok to use something like a bit of Vaseline to hold the ring in place? Maybe something else?

So I don't make mistakes in my latest build I was wondering what is reccomended most. Should I twist the AC power leads on a torroid being used in a DAC? Should I twist the DC power hookup wire that will go from the PSU to the DAC board? I'm assuming I should always twist the signal wires...

My b22 has felt feet and is in dire need of something, anything better that will provide some lift. Also what version of loctite is safe to use on nuts, bolts, screws, pots inside the amp? Things were pretty loose when I got it and have been tightened but I'd like it to be a one time thing

The end of a headphone plug broke off in one of my headphone amps that has a locking Neutrik 1/4" headphone jack. I tried the straw trick, and even the screw trick (gently), all to no avail. Considering the glue/heat trick. Am I fucked (and not in a good way), or is there another technique I should consider trying to get the piece out? Any inputs are appreciated. TIA.

I have a couple of DIY questions: This one is pretty basic. I need an easy to use, lead-free solder. I'm guessing a lead-free eutectic solder is what I'm looking for. Is this correct and do you have any recommendations. Also, please recommend a source for it. Not that I'll be needing this information in the near future, but I have a question about Magnequest. I see a lot of other brands talked about here and almost no mention of this one. Are Magnequest not great transformers? Or maybe there is some other problem with them or the company? Or lastly, maybe nobody here uses them due to habit? I'm just curious as I know that Bottlehead likes and uses them.

So I've been on vacation for the last few days and decided to go play with my tube amp since I had nothing better to do. After reading a whole bunch of stuff on the diyaudio forums I got a bunch of stuff together and played around with various power supplies for the heaters in my tubes. First off was a generic DC power supply I got as a kit in the local electronics store way back when. It sounds decent, with Grados there's more background hiss than I'd like but other than that I didn't notice anything wrong with it until I got the good stuff. Next was a benchtop power supply I found in the surplus shop. This is the quietest power supply, with Grados there's just the…

I had a problem with the last amp i built with pcb mounted sockets where the tubes werent straight (probably because the sockets werent parallel to the board. anyone have any tips on how i can get the sockets all mounted level so the tubes can stick out straight?

The part tested ok and seems to a 15 volt reg mc 7915ctg mc 7815ctg Bottom right is where the reg were Below the vishey 4700uf caps

I have some Grado Aluminum headset blocks that I got from the guy in Malaysia. I've been trying to find someone who will do a small job like this but have been unsuccessful so far. I would like to get R and L milled into them with the square border areound the letters like on the Factory plastic blocks. Anybody have any suggestion for someone who would do something like this?

I'm finally going to break down and start doing my own soldering, and thought that maybe I'd make some adapters so that I can use other sorts of tubes in my Singlepower (tube complement == 3 x 6sn7's). 7n7's should be easy --they're just a rewire. It was suggested that I try 5687's. Based on this: and other posts (mostly from Jacob), it seems that it's not a straight rewire. Anyone have any idea what the "schematic" would be? Any others that are straight rewires that I should also try? Thanks for any info.

Anyone here gander a guess (or someone that's built one) how difficult it is to build (battery version)? I wrote off getting one since I didn't want to wait for the Digikey order and the order from Hagerman but someone is selling complete kits on ebay so I'm thinking I might as well do it. And it might just outperform the NAD PP-2 for less.