Do It Yourself

Have any of you that have the IM716, or took advantage of the Buy dot com deal, removed the volume pod and added resistors? The other site has a thread on this but thought I check here as well. I just got in a pair and also have a few resistors hanging around; although, all I have are 75 ohm jobbies from KSC-35 mod craziness. Other than getting rid of the somewhat sizeable pod holding the switch and volume pot, anyone find it worth the effort?

So I want to print a holder for some supercaps. Anybody here disign in 3d regularly?

Anyone ever try something like this? https://audioxpress.com/files/attachment/2685 I wanted to see if I could find something passive that would take an unbalanced signal from a preamp and convert it o a balanced output. Is this worth trying? Or would I damage the balanced amp?

Saw some talk about this and decided to make a new version. use either the tube unbal/bal to bal board, or the solid state version result is about 125 watts rms into 8 ohms at thd of .005% will definitely drive 4 ohms with suitably large power supplies. transistors are standard pinout, so pick your favorite output transistors. the to220 transistors are mje15034/mje15035 perfect for so many things, including esl boost transformers. pioneera09.pdf

I met Per Lundahl at Capital Audio Fest last year, and in trying to figure out what I could use I'd have for Lundahl transformers I asked about winding something that can drive e-stats, planars, low impedance, speakers from separate taps. I had also just bought a bunch of 6336B dual triodes, so thought that might work. The transformers came and many months went by but finally rigged something up. Basically right now it's just 6336B with both triodes in parallel, running about 200mA with a B+ of 260V. There's an e-stat output that steps up, and also 50 ohm and 6 ohm outputs. The grid voltage is set by a bunch of 9V in series. The black box in the middle on top o…

AKM post a pic, but still no details...

Has anyone built this balanced beast and tried it out?Rightmove Kijiji Quizlet

Do-it-yourself-ers and MOTs: If someone had a mid-fi device that you knew nothing about, what would be your first recommendation? I'm fond of my X-Tone, but suspect it has cheap op-amps and/or caps in there -- any recommendations? I also have a MF X-24K that I suspect could be better. For that matter, I have a whole slew of X-tube stuff -- X-Pre, X-CANv2, X-LP2 -- I suspect the recommended mods for the X-Pre would be the same as the mods on the X-CANv2, neh? If anyone wants me to post pics of internal organs, let me know.

Hi everyone! I had a quick question regarding buying a wall plug power supply. I lost the power supply of a small amplifier that I have. The back of the amplifier says that the power requirements are 12 volts DC and 4 watts. I tried looking around on Mouser but couldn't find a power supply with those exact ratings (basically 12 volts dc, 0.33 amps, 5 watts I believe). I did however find a power supply rated at 12 volts DC and 5 watts. Is the watt rating the maximum or should I not play around and instead try to find a power supply with the exact ratings that are required? Do you guys have any suggestions as to what other sites I should look on for wall plug or desktop …

see title. ^^ Biggie.

I've been doing some Google searching and also on diyaudio but I can't seem to find a nice answer to which pins are connected to what on Quad 5-pin and 4-pin DIN interconnects. Anyone here know? -think ive got it now-

Can the popular replacement cables be reterminated to balanced, (i.e are they 4 condutor all the way to the plug)? Like Equinox, Blue/Silver Dragon, Zu mobius, Cardas etc? Cheers Pete

That was seriously misleading.. I thought it was the official release of FPE's Front panel designer 4.0, but instead it was a email from Front panel Expert for their software Cetina CAD 1.3.7 This was followed shortly by another email for a 25% off promotional offer this month. My order is still going to go to cam-expert since FPexpert doesn't offer plexi, but I'm curious to see how their service compares to FPexpress and cam-expert. They've been out for a while now from what I know, but I haven't heard any mention of them before.

I was adding a switch to my brother's NewClassD amp, but am having a curious situation. The switch was to go between SE->bal (4PDT), wired up basically like what Kerry did with the relays on the mini ss DYnalo: Everything ohms out correctly, but when I went to test it, the R channel works perfectly (in either position), but no sound from the L channel. I took it all apart tonight (not the switch and input wiring), but disconnected from the amp boards, etc. Everything once again ohms out perfectly, no shorts. L- and R- shorted to gnd when switch is in SE position, straight thru then not. The XLRs are the metal Neutriks like the NC3MD-LX-HE, etc. The only …

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I've been thinking about opening the earcups of the MS1i and dampening the back of the drivers like Grado does with it's higher end cans presumably to eliminate any resonance that might occur in the metal back that houses the magnet. The only thing is that I'm not to sure what material I should use. Does anybody here have any experience with doing anything like this? If not I'll probably just use a little bit of silicon gel.

Anyone here have experience with one of these? Price is right, but likely too good to be true? https://volumio.org/product/allo-stepped-attenuator/

I've building a preamplifier that also functions as a headphone amplifier. When no headphones are present, the gain of the internal opamps should be 1x (unity), so that the signal can be passed out the back of the device at line level for a speaker amplifier to further process. When headphones are inserted, the rear outputs disable, and the user should be able to select from no gain (1x), low gain (2x) or high gain (6x) to suit the impedance of the headphones. The entire operation will be controlled from an Arduino. I'm using a switched headphone jack to determine when a set of headphones has been plugged in. The gain should be selectable usi…

My DAC has only one dual RCA output. I would like to use it with both of my speakers and headphones amp (but not at the same time), and don't want to disconnect and reconnect the RCA cables. If I add another dual RCA output by connecting them parallel to the existing RCA output. Would it be any problem?

Gang, My Dad seems to have misplaced the wall wart for his EC/SS. I know it is a 16V AC wall wart, but I'm not sure what exact specs I should be looking for. Any help is appreciated.

I realize this isn't audio related, but I'm in the process of rewiring a bunch of antique lamps. I could use a 50' or 100' spool of lamp 18ga 2-conductor lamp cord. The local hardware store charges 40-80 cents a foot. Any suggestions where I should look online for lamp cord and other parts?

Just curious, does anyone happen to have a variac I could borrow for a bit? If not, I suppose I could go ghetto...

Members pay a fee and can use some expensive DIY equipment: Ping - At TechShops, Do-It-Yourselfers Get to Use Expensive Tools - NYTimes.com

hey, I was wonder if a 400 VDC rated cap would be suitable for replacing the interstage coupling caps in my MPX3 SE? There are 2 caps. I got a tip from Mr. Hansen about a line of capacitors I'd like to try, just don't know how to go about verifying they will work.

The mains cable (crappy 2-wire zip cord) on my SRD-Pro is a bit old and warn, and seems way too long. I would like to replace it with something that's of better quality. Of all the better (google results) power cable I've seen, it's all three wire, some shielded and some not. One article on Belden's three-wire shielded (#83803) mention constructing so that at the plug end, the shield wrap and the the ground wire are connected to the wall plug. At the component end, leave the shield floating; use the shield to capture interference traveling through the cable (in or out) and to ground them to earth so they do not cause any unwanted noise. My question is, if I choose a…