Do It Yourself

Anyone else get the following email this weekend/today? modu Case made in Italy by Hi-Fi 2000 We would like our kind customer to know that the Galaxy, Slim and Dissipante series are now available in full aluminium see here modushop.biz and it is already possible to customize them. Click here modushop.biz Modu Staff A bit expensive, more of a jump from the standard pricing than I would have thought. Oh yeah, I got this email 3 times yesterday, and once (so far) today

I have a few uses for a simple, regulated power PCB that supports a number of different ~25VA PCB mount transformers with a bit of filtering on each side of the transformer. I'm trying to nail down the schematic a bit and wanted to see if there was any advice out there

Is there a demand for another run of the classic kgss board? Show of hands please. I for one love to build it, with the new sockets coming from Justine soon. Maybe makinging fully ccs. Naming it Kgss+ ??

Hi All: This is the build thread for the Kerry design PSU. I posted BOM and schematic with Kerry's permission here and will be posting more information including photos of my test build. My test build use the partially-assembled GRHV boards. I soldered in the the pass transistor and the resistors to set up my desired output voltage. The voltages, timer all tested as expected without load. Fire up your soldering irons and happy building! GRHVBase-v2-production.pdf GRHVBase-BOM - V2 production.xlsx

So I hate 99.9% of headsets on the market because the headphone portion is always uncomfortable as all hell, and the ones that aren't uncomfortable are huge HD650 style. So I have an uncomfortable ass folding headset thing from Plantronics and a pair of PortaPros I plan on combining. I've done some work so far but this seems like it will be almost too simple of a mod. The PortaPros have that random screw hole that does nothing on the left side and the Plantronics mic is on the left side of that headset with a pivot point. So far I demolished the Plantronics headset and got the mic out of it unscathed. I took the tiny screw out of the side of the PortaPros …

I was going to name it 'Double the Carbon, double the voltage, double the fun', but I'm afraid that would be too wordy. Ever since I measured the output swing capability of the Carbon, I wanted to see if it can drive my ESL speakers. To do that, I'd need a beefed-up version that can output at least 1kVrms before clipping. That's 1414V peak, out of a ±750V to ±800V PSU. To simply scale up the Carbon amp and the GRHV PSU without major changes to the PCBs, a few hurdles would have to be overcome. First is the 900-V rated 10M90s in the cascode CCS that bottom out with ±450V PSU. When I was browsing the high voltage FETs at Mouser, I found the UnitedSiC UF3N170400B. …

So I have done a couple of soldering projects and both of them have not turned out so great. Just wondering if there is a good online guide or some place I can look to get some decent tips. I know a lot of it just has to do with practice, but I feel as though I am missing out on a lot of the subtle little things that will make soldering in general a lot easier on me. Any help is greatly appreciated.

This might be of interest to some here: Audio Origami - ReWires I will try this project sometime in the next two months or so, after I have played enough with the Thorens I just got to start my 1st vinyl rig. Just wanted to throw this out there for those of you who are itching to try something new. I have also read up on the DIY Altmann TT, but I'm guessing that's been discussed here before: The Altmann DIY Turntable And then there is the HDD mixing turntable: HDDJ: Turning an old hard disk drive into a rotary input device Well, plenty of projects to choose from!

So, I have 4 X Beta 22 Amp board kit + 2 X Sigma 22 Power Supply kit from Glass Jar Audio in a two HI-FI2000 slim line 2U case with aluminum top and base plate. My idea is to use 100mA quiescent current to keep the temperature a bit lower, but should I drill holes to those base plates? Would it actually help to keep those temperatures lower with those covers? Or should I just order more vented custom aluminum covers from Modushop? Cases: Top and base plate:

Anyone here gander a guess (or someone that's built one) how difficult it is to build (battery version)? I wrote off getting one since I didn't want to wait for the Digikey order and the order from Hagerman but someone is selling complete kits on ebay so I'm thinking I might as well do it. And it might just outperform the NAD PP-2 for less.

This one is for all you speaker guys. I figured that most of you don't venture over the Headwize very often and honestly, this thing is so freakin' over the top that I just had to post it here. This amp will debut at the Norcal meet this weekend and holy heck I wish I could be there to see it. Project Development Thread: Click Here And hopefully Ti won't mind if I link to just a few of his images in this thread. Honestly, it's one of the most impressive builds that I've ever seen. Front Back Internal

The left earcup snapped off. You'll see from the pics that there is a sort of ring or collar made of black plastic around a brass/metal part. That black plastic piece snapped. I'm not sure how modular these things are, but it looks like some Krazy Glue might do the trick. I welcome your suggestions.

Hi, n00b here. Please dont get out your shovels or hammers, i'm just asking a honest question. I've noticed that the term "sand" has been used a lot in the DIY Forum when referring to semiconductors. Does this mean something along the lines that transistors and diodes are made out of silicon, basically quartz "sand"? Therefore: sand = semiconductor? Since semiconductors are generally not considered "passive" devices, maybe it could be a fancy acronym for Silicon Active Node Device? I've searched high and low and could only find this totally geeked-out reference: Self-Assembled Nanodielectric. Could this explain "sand"? Or is it something else? …

Some guys insist MUSES 72320 is better than relay-based vol control, but I highly doubt that. Any tried that? (Let's ignore those CS3310 etc which are not so good, we only talk about that 72320)

Memory Distortion Philosophies I have no idea what he's talking about... but the way his design blatantly goes against all "audiophile design philosophy" is rather intriguing

They used to do it for classrooms, and I have a similar program for 16 listeners. I'm on a small budget and can't afford a headphone amplifier. I want to use an old stereo amplifier of about 5-10 or 20 watts (which is really two amps in one box) on a TV output source. A switch on the panel will unify the stereo to mono left amp, and right amp. I have a Telex model 753 mono passive headphone splitter with 8 each 1/4" mono inputs, for one channel, and parts to make an identical splitter for the other channel. (there's not even so much as a resistor in the box, just wire and phone plugs) Now, with two splitters on Left and Right speaker output channels, I plug in up to 1…

I have have an old Dynalo power supply that I never got working properly, but I'll make another attempt. It's headamp.com PCB layout and I've used the parts list that was suggested at that time, except for the 5 uF caps. The suggest 5 uF caps were Epassives MKS4475J63-6, but I don't think these are available anymore. Instead I used Solen caps. Maybe that was the problem. Anyone here built the Dynalo power supply and could share a parts list? In particular, info on the 5 uF caps would be helpful. I'll also try some high slew rate caps. Digi-Key has Cornell Dubilier 940C6W4P7K-F with a slew rate of 105 V/us. These are quite large and won't fit the board properly, so thi…

the output on my Zhaolu is too high. I have had some issues with it in the past, but never that bad. However with my two most recent purchases, a Marantz Sr7001 receiver and a MPX3 SLAM I am running into problems. The Marantz's Peak light shows and the sound gets distorted at times because it can't handle the inputs and I can't turn the volume up past 7 o'clock on my mpx3. I've considered getting some of those RCA adapters to reduce gain by 3db or 6db, but I realize that is not an ideal fix. So does anyone have any experience with the Zhaolu 1.3? Can I change the gain on it?

just finished one of these at school. Soldering, Learn how to Solder Kit worked after the first try. no solder bridges. no bad contacts. no cold solders. gentleman who runs the e.e. lab guided me and got me started and said that i could take on a project that has a printed circuit board. as with all else, he said i will learn good practices as i make mistakes. i have started looking into a speaker rig. the drivers are fostex 206e (96db efficiency) so i figured a couple of watts will suffice. the listening volumes will be fairly low. for the 206e drivers, this amp seems to be thrown around on diyaudio a lot for reasons of synergy or what have you. Zen Triode…

just got this for free from the good folks upstairs. nothing beats a free soldering iron (the one i have a cheap one from home depot) but is it any good? has a nice little slider for temperature control. cant find too much info on it online so i thought i would ask. the guy who runs the electrical engineering labs is cleaning house so is giving away a crapload of stuff (transformers/old drivers/test equipment/anything under the sun). i already called dibs on anything audio and surprisingly he hasnt had any requests for the stuff i put my name down for so should be nice. he used to work for bendix back in the day and has some 600 tubes in pristine condition he is t…

In my current situation I don't really have a designated area for electronics work. While trying to find a wife-accepted permanent location I've had to make due with a few impromptu work areas, all of which have really inadequate lighting. Funds are tight, but I absolutely can't afford to ruin another component attempting to forge ahead despite poor lighting conditions. I'm looking for something <$40 shipped (or bought locally) that can work well as a light for electronics work. Anyone have any suggestions on what to go for?

This is for use on my balanced beta22, the zobel networks described at amb`s beta22 site are: 22Ω 2W 5% metal oxide power resistor and 0.047

Nectar Sound, purveyor of the Pollinator and now the Hive headphones, has a DIY amp published on the website. I reached out and picked up a PCB so I can build this low cost energizer and see how it stacks up against my SRM-252S. Attached is the schematic, BOM, image of a completed amp, and hook-up guide. You can also access everything on the Nectar Sound website. Sajeev has updated the board slightly from the images attached to hold a pair of CL-90 inrush limiters to prevent blowing a fuse on start-up. I'm in the process of gathering the parts now, but wanted to post this to archive the build and see if anyone else was building (or has built) one. Nectar1p0_Headp…

I'm sorta intrigued by this unit: anyone know much about it? Also, anyone heard the AVC TVC units from Diy HiFi (i.e. Django, etc.) 50/50% Permalloy Core Autoformer 28 step (Pair) | Diy HiFi Supply Of course there is the S&B, Sowter, and Jensen (and probably Lundahl) .. any others to consider? This would be used in conjunction with an active preamp. What is the general consensus of TVC used in this type of situation?

Interesting read..... http://www.humblehomemadehifi.com/Cap.html