Leaderboard

When Nate comes to town, he must be given a proper welcome. Mikey handling the damascus steel Colin's example was the most picturesque, b/c, I mean... This a better view? DoxDoxDox waiting for her slice Waiting to be served

We all enjoyed Colin's meat...

My CFA is already singing. Thanks to Kevin, Congo5 and Michael I´m using a SE source without problems (bridge "cold" channel to ground). My unicial assembly is a bit precarious but only because I wanted to check that everything works correctly. My "Mini BH PSU" to -407Vdc and + 404Vdc. Offset at the start with 14.5/9.22Vdc channel L and 13.76/11.88Vdc channel R. After one hour it is very similar on all channels. Balance 4Vdc and 2Vdc. I hope this is not worrisome. I am using "adequate" heatsinks ?. Temperature transistors after one hour of use is barely 40º. I guess that's why the offset remains so stable.

Cat looks exactly like British comic Kenneth Williams from the "Carry On" series. Random, I know.

me(ow)_irl

It looks like the LT1021 is abandoned by most supplier. Mouser is out of stock but claims that it’s on order. There is another 10 volt reference LT1236-10 that I think should be a good alternative. I’ve tested it in LTspice model by Kerry (jump here for reference and more info) and it seems to do the same as LT1021-10 but with 0.2 mA lower current with same current set resistor. Someone has to verify LT1236 works. I guess Kerry needs a couple of LTxxxx in above PSU.

All of it was SOOOOO good. And Lily may come steal Dox from Colin.

Well, I rather not make recommendations but I would go for +400V/-460V and add one 20K/3W resistor on each board between +220V and +400V pads. I think I want something like this… ...for power supply.

I 3d printed a mount for a 1 gen iPad mini and after about 4 downloads, finally found an app that works well with iOS 9 and in portrait mode.

my board is a direct copy of Dr Gilmore's layout and values. so all credit goes to him. I saw no need to make resistor value changes. Some things can be adjusted as Michael did but with enough heat sink it works just fine as is. A stable temp is good if you want stable current through the output stage think mine were about 18ma warmed up on 400v rails I have two working amps and no plans to mess with them. Thanks

Probably a minor work of Bruce but for me it has a very special meaning.

Thanks but my amps are very simple... besides this is a temporary wiring. It's all pretty chaotic. For the moment, I prefer to start with the values that Congo5 selected. Anyway, with these heatsinks, my amplifier stays moderately hot, so I rule out changing anything if it's not necessary.

We definitely need a group buy for those PS. All-in-one PSU for the miniT2 kept mini (apart from the transformers, but that's another story).

It reminds me of some of Fripp and Eno's songs.

Not a pretty one, but:

I've tested this supply and it works nicely

Proof that FR graphs are useless as we all know?

finished my Twisted Pear BIII Pro SE (9028)

Streams/creeks are full right now from rain and snow. Lots of water crossings. I cant wait until May when everything is dry, many of the trials that I ride are changed significantly due to erosion from the rain/snow and this year I can already see that my favorite trails will be unrecognizable! That creek in this pic is a miles long rock garden.

I ended up doing forty five minutes of free weights this evening, and I have enough endorphins going that I want to jump back on the bike. I think that is a good sign.

Pretty sure it's eight reindeer bro!

She is astonishing. Here is another that leaves you breathless

Damn kids these days will never amount to nothin"!

Here's a pic of the 35mm multioutput boards I had run. DImensions are 116 x 107mm, with the mounting holes on 106 x 97mm centers. On Semi schottky rectifiers, 30mm caps installed. I'm working on shrinking this down to match the size and mounting pattern of Kevin's boards (110 x 93 with mtg. holes 100 x 83), and so far it looks good, though I'll probably have to lose the following: power LED and resistors the current board allows 220uf caps that are 18mm diam. with 7.5mm lead spacing in the upper corners. Not sure what cap was the target here, as a Silmic is 12.5mm d x 5mm ls (for 35V). This will shrink to Silmic size (though I don't use them). This doesn't have the rail balance pot and stuff on it (to equalize the +/- rails). I'll take a look at that and see if it would fit. I'll probably ditch the 1uf film caps following the main filter caps. Not sure they are really of any benefit. These boards do support R-C snubbers. You could also do Mark Johnson's (diyaudio-Quasimodo thread) favored R-C-R snubber by soldering the 0.01uf film caps across the 2 AC inputs on the bottom. I may try to accommodate these on the board itself.

Herb and Panko crusted rack of lamb.

Today's news is that he apparently hung himself.