Quote" red mallee knob in progress "

Will they be too hot to handle on the T2?

That looks beautiful

Nice!

Wow!

While mounting the amp (almost done), I am having trouble with the tube sockets, that fits the holes in toppanel rather tight. 2 of the EL34 sockets are "dis-placed" about 1 mm too close to the front.

I did choose Bakelit sockets (with same dimensions as the teflon ones), so i cant really cut in them.

Any ideas? Melt a bit away with a soldering iron?

Dremel tool?

Bad idea. Just enlarge the top panel. Much safer.

While mounting the amp (almost done), I am having trouble with the tube sockets, that fits the holes in toppanel rather tight. 2 of the EL34 sockets are "dis-placed" about 1 mm too close to the front.

I did choose Bakelit sockets (with same dimensions as the teflon ones), so i cant really cut in them.

Any ideas? Melt a bit away with a soldering iron?

Desolder the sockets and remove them. Reinstall the sockets and secure them with semi-flexible means (tape, or something like it) and fit the panel into the chassis and resolder them in. Is it a pain, yes, but perfectly doable unless I'm missing something. While modifying the top panel would technically work it'd still look it was fixed even if you did all 4 holes because 2 of them would be off-center.

Just fix it right.

Just fix it right.

Aren't you the guy with the insanely high priced components and looking for trouble rigging up these parts on the board? Why didn't you use the proper material, for you know, the parts that allow a safe operation of the amp? Did you save what, $50?

can you loosen the screws on the standoffs and reposition the board?

The Dremel tool would work on the top panel too.

Aren't you the guy with the insanely high priced components and looking for trouble rigging up these parts on the board? Why didn't you use the proper material, for you know, the parts that allow a safe operation of the amp? Did you save what, $50?

This wasn't directed at me, right?

Nate, he drinks heavily after 10:00 PM.

I got a better idea. Desolder the sockets.

Go and get the teflon sockets. You can buy the cheaper version

if you want. They fit fine as long as you get them all the way

down on the board and level.

Yeah, don't fuck around with high voltage.

Nate, that was for pedefede.

This wasn't directed at me, right?

No, sorry The quoted text was for context!

In all reality I think that Justin assessed the situation correctly. You'll likely have to also loosen the components on the L bracket too to get the maximum amount of slop.

The Bakelit sockets wasnt choosen because of the price! (which anyway is roughly the same as the Teflon ones). And they seem to have the exact similar shape - so i didnt do something stupid there. (The displacement issue is due to how the PCB are mounted to the alu L-brackets (where i only premounted the side+front/back - but left out the top plate). I guess the default solution is to re-mount the L-brackets ...

But I came up with another solution. If I dont start to assemble first the sides to the front/back, and then top/bottum; - but instead first the sides to the top/buttom - and then the front/back, there is room for the sockets in the holes (2 of the sockets touch the top plate, but without much tension). There will then be half a millimeter space between the front and the sides. The cabinet seems pretty stable. (The back and sides are in firm contact).

(If i tighten the screws, i guess i can get the sides and front to touch, but i think it will put some stress on the solderings of the sockets. )

[EDIT:]

And today i loosened the 2x7 screws, that holds the L-brackets to the sides/heatsinks. I was then able to push the PCB+Brackets a bit a way from the front, (because of the space between the screws in the holes) before fastening again. This gave another 0,3mm, and things looks nice now. The sides, of 2 of the sockets just touch the top panel, but i dont think that will be a problem now.

Edited August 16, 201114 yr by pedefede

About the wirering. Are everybody using the "setup" that i saw in post 1497/1498 ??

I was kinda worried about having +500V sitting right next to -560V. I'm considering "grouping" the plus and minus rails - but then again - if there has been some kind of standard evolved ...

Just thought I'd throw this out there for those who have yet to source that rare sand for their T2's.

This could be worthwhile, as I dropped a little over $200 with B&D recently for discontinued transistors.

B&D is having a "summer sale" until August 31. 10% off and free shipping in the CONUS.

Minimum order is $100 to qualify, use souce code: "cooldown" at checkout.

www.bdent.com

Edited August 18, 201114 yr by livewire

So, long story short, I have an extra HV differential probe, a Tek P5200. It doesn't require a TekProbe interface, so it would be compatible with most scopes (contact me for more info). I just tested it with my function generator and it works great. Anyone interested in it?

If anyone else has a TekProbe interface compatible scope, I have something else that could be available for rent.... ahem, Team Extreme Testing represent!

Minimum order is $100 to qualify, use souce code: "cooldown" at checkout.

.

Thanks for the info. It saved me about $40.

Here's some news for those building a T-2-

OBERON is now selling their range of arc-flash protection suits in a variety of FASHION COLORS!

You can now make a fashion statement whilst protecting yourself from plasmas that result when semiconductors are flash-vaporized!

What's the max torque for the M3 PEEK screws? Anybody know?

0.15 N-m or 1.33 In-lbs.

Easy does it! Dont want no achy-breaky in your build...

Edited August 30, 201114 yr by livewire