Pulled out the fuse, read the value.

Edit: I should mention I'm fixing an existing gainclone, not building one from scratch.

Might have found a switch on ebay.

I see. I hope it's not a commercial product (either way, it's possible the fuse didn't do it's job, depending on the nature of the problem you're fixing) Carry on! Understanding how transformers work is a worthwhile endeavor in my opinion..

I'd caution against using a latching switch like the one that you are describing in this application unless it is simply switching a relay. The only switches of that type that I have seen are all rated less than .25A, which is not likely to be sufficient at idle not to mention startup.

I found a few push button switches rated for 125VAC at ~3A but they were all momentary. Think I'm giving up on this idea though because almost no one seems to make latching versions.

I'll stick with buying a replacement for the switch already in there, but many thanks for the advice.

Wiring up a relay really isn't much work, but it's likely to land you with a $20 to $30 switching arrangement.

Switches like these do exist, my Exstata has one and so do my newe transformer boxes. They are rated at 250V/3A and I get them at my local store. Check these out though...

Those look decent. I like FrozenCPUs appropriation in their spec description though

Manufactured from marine grade Stainless Steel, Bulgin's extensive range of vandal resistant security switches are

Makes them sound like they are Bulgin...

I've always doubted those specs... Perhaps see if Bulgin has anything close to those specs in their catalog?

The Bulgin's that are like that at Mouser are rated 24V, 50mA...

The Bulgin's that are like that at Mouser are rated 24V, 50mA...

Yup

I have a question about hole saws.

I am looking into buying a 5 1/2" hole saw to make armboards for my turntable.

I am curious how these things are measured. The hole for the arm board is EXACTLY 5.5", the Technics armboard measures 5.469" and I would not mind if it were a tiny bit looser, but it cant be 5 1/4" because then it the mounting screws will be too close to the edge

So how are holesaws measured? Ar ethey the diameter of the hole (which would leave the puck smaller) or the diameter of the puck? or the average?

I have a question about hole saws.

I am looking into buying a 5 1/2" hole saw to make armboards for my turntable.

I am curious how these things are measured. The hole for the arm board is EXACTLY 5.5", the Technics armboard measures 5.469" and I would not mind if it were a tiny bit looser, but it cant be 5 1/4" because then it the mounting screws will be too close to the edge

So how are holesaws measured? Ar ethey the diameter of the hole (which would leave the puck smaller) or the diameter of the puck? or the average?

Generally, they are spec'd by the hole they leave behind but I wouldn't count on any more than half a tenth +/- of accuracy.

I believe it was Marc that inquired about a terminal block with clear cover. Here while back.

terminal items - Get great deals on Home, Car Garage items on eBay Stores!

Does anyone have a suggestion on finding a top loading, internal, sata, dvd rom or burner that could be used in a custom computer case? There are plenty of external dvd burners, but I am not sure how easy it would be to incorporate one into a different case. Thoughts?

ok, I have one. I need a positive fixed, three terminal, TO-220 5v regulator. Drop out has to be <=1.5V. Anyone have any parts they know to work? A s

Found one! Microchip of all people makes a nice one. .2V drop out, that's insane..

Microchip's funny like that; they're known for their PIC's, but also manufacture IC's for most PIC applications. They're really great for well-documented standalone interface chips--I'm a huge fan of their ethernet controllers.

Yup, nice performing chip. They even have four legged ones that look cool as well.

http://www.bdent.com/2SC3381BL-p/2sc3381bl.htm

http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/swap-meet/143997-fs-toshiba-2sk389-gr-2sa1349-gr-2sc3381-gr.html

Ah, good old B D Enterprises!

I found that http://www.littlediode.com/components/home.php Little Diode also has them, at greater cost. (Though for those in the UK these may be cheaper due to local sourcing vs. import - duties, customs? Dunno, but maybe.)

Thank for posting that Lil Knight.

And thanks to Pars for posting the diya alternative a while back when I was building my KGSSHV.

I was going through them suckers like water when I was in my "blowing up the psu" stage. he-he!

Saved a fist full of bucks then and now while gathering sand for the T2.

He must have acquired Charles Hansen number of quantities, he is not running out any time soon

I may be using an H bridge driver sometime in the near future and what I'm looking at now is made by ST in some weird proprietary MultiPowerSO-30 package. Is there some sort of PCB adapter I can buy to solder on and connect to some large header so I can do some prototyping? Or would I have to lay out my own.

Also, kind of random but is it possible to buy large aluminium heatsinks with a bunch of transistor mount holes pre-drilled in them?

The issue with that package is the three heat slugs under the chip. Depending on your thermal requirements, a custom breakout PCB is really needed.

You can find surplus heat sinks with pre-tapped holes, check out EBay. Nothing new-stock though. You could look into some of the clip designs though, or using a single bar to apply pressure to a number of devices at once... Plenty of ways to get creative here.

Edited September 8, 201114 yr by luvdunhill