Headphone Amplification

Has anyone heard or experience reliability issues with any of these amps. I saw a reference on StereoWOW about the 717 having issues. StereoWOW

So I was reevaluating my two-channel system and while things were moved about I decided to remove some of the accumulated dust. I was using one of those swiffers on the ES-1 and I guess it is too forceful an instrument as the green glass covering the readout from the digital volume fell into the chassis. So I am going to open it up and remove the glass and re-affix it to the chassis. I realize I need to turn it over and separate the bottom from the top. There appears to be only 4 screws (2 front and 2 back), of the approximately 1 billion screws in the chassis, that actually hold the top and bottom together. This seems way to easy, am I missing something here? The pie…

Damn! I want to go home early to play with my new toy. I just received my Headroom Desktop Portable with the home module and the DAC. It?s going to serve as my Bedroom amp. It?ll be driven with USB or SPDIF from my computer (All MP3?s at 256K) or my Pioneer DV-563a for all silver discs both analog and possibly SPDIF. I?ll have to listen to determine the exact setup that I?ll end up with. I could go USB from the computer and SPDIF (Custom Siltech RCA to 1/8? digital cable) from the Pioneer for Redbook, and analog (Via Siltech Forbes Lake G6) for SACD and DVD-A. It?ll also see portable use with my Ety ER4S and my Archos AV420 with MP3 (all at 256K) I LOVE getting n…

Anyone have any feelings they'd like to share about this conflict? http://www.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?t=233352 Basically Headphonia completely ripped off Dr. Meier's design for the Porta Corda III. I don't get any joy out of portable amplification but it was an interesting thread to read through.

i've seen a couple of these on sale recently, and was wondering if anybody has any impressions of this amp. google doesn't turn up much, except some HF threads which, because of the reshuffled urls, lead to dead links. i remember reading somewhere that it shares the same circuit as the RA-1, which in turn has often been referred to as a glorified Cmoy. i'm not sure what to make of that, so if anyone can enlighten me, it would be much appreciated. *and for anybody who might be interested, the person auctioning the one on eBay is also auctioning a pair of RS-1s. The picture of the HPA-1 shows a pair of RS-1s with the brown leather headband beside them, so i assume it is…

So I bought the Mini3 that jinp6301 sold and the battery life's been pretty bad. I get about 3 hours per charge, so I figure it's time to replace the 9v that came with it. Any recommendations as to which 9v I should use?

So my birthday present is finally here, the SRM-T8000. I just quickly plucked it into my computer rig with the Denafrips Ares as a source: Here I can compare directly against the Carbon CC and the as yet unrealesed new KGSSHV, budget edition. Think of this one as the 727 if Stax had any sense. Anyway, back to the T8000. The packaging is classic Stax and no complaints there. I do have some complaints about the casework though, the front panel looks awesome but who decided what to do with the rest of it? Seriously that sparckly silver paint is just horrible. Reminds me of some super cheap Chinese amps. Yeah... not great. I had a quick peek inside to…

The Menace is deserving of it's own thread I think (well 2nd thread actually). Built by our very own n_maher, I couldn't believe it when he put it up for sale, just happy I was lucky enough to get it. Amazing amp, stayed up far too late just listening last night and it looks like a repeat performance is on for tonight. hi-rez versions of the attached pics

I use a HeadRoom Micro Stack to power my full-sized cans at my desktop. I use a RSA Hornet to power full-sized cans when I am not by my Micro Stack. I also use the Hornet with my Shure E4c, but not often, since they are easy to drive by my iPhone 3G or 2nd Gen Nano (there is some improvement, but nothing to jump up and down for). What I'd like to get is something smaller than the Hornet. I would like for it to be from a vendor that is not known for long delays, poor communication, not keeping promises, etc. It can be from anywhere, as long as shipping to the U.S. is OK, but I'd prefer something shipped FROM the USA (does not need to be MADE in USA). Vendor should…

Got any? I am probably gonna be doing it up with an ipod classic and am looking for a portable amp that will not only ensure enough voltage but also a flat frequency response. I know the ipod isn't flat accurate by any means but I have heard that the right amp can compensate for this.

Could someone please recommend a few Solid State headphone amps either to buy or have built. I've read so much my eyes are popping out of my head. I've got LCD X's. I've listened to a few friends tube and SS amps (Woo, Lake People, HeadRoom (older Home amp). I don't want to deal with tubes and want to go SS but can't afford Stax for a few years. You guys certainly know leagues more than I and there is no bull$itt here. Thanks.

The Backstory: So, Nate ordered a Lunch Box from Eddie Current, and realized he wouldn't need it because of his plans to build an Akido. I had almost ordered one, and a trade was worked out so that I would get the Lunch Box for my office rig. The office setup was completed by another trade with Nate to get his HD-600's since this amp is for headphones with > 150 ohm impedence. The Arrival: Well, it finally arrived yesterday @ Nate's office. As we only work a few miles apart, it was all I could do to wait 'til after work to get it! So you can imagine my disappointment when I get home after work, insert the tubes, plug it in and find it won't turn on! No! So it left…

Hello Everyone This is my first post here. I have done some research about T1 troubles here and didn't find any topic about hot trafo. In my opinion this trafo is too hot but I don't have another SRM-T1 to check. I have removed tubes and then trafo is only warm - seems ok. Picture shows where I put temp sensor (blue wire). Did anyone had similar problems? P.S. I have just bought SR-Omega with Mk1 driver and SRM-T1 - amazing sound My previous system was SRM-727 and SR-507 and it wasn't so good.

I see during several of the FET-A reviews the Gilmore Lite/GS-1 were understandably brought up as natural competitors, but as reviewers didn't have the HeadAmps on hand at the time, I wondered in the last few months if anyone has had a chance to A/B (especially with Senns)?

I picked up one of these on HF for $100. I figured I'd use it in the living room or something. I wonder if I should have just bought $100 worth of beer instead. How bad can it be for $100?

OK folks, I just bought a dozen spares, but this guy has plenty: http://cgi.ebay.com/88x-Tube-6FQ7-6CG7-RAYTHEON-JAPAN-NIB-5-8-Each-Tube_W0QQitemZ5873841025QQcategoryZ50598QQssPageNameZWD1VQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem I believe the actual manufacturer of these tubes is Toshiba. In my 007t, these outperform anything else I've tried. At a whopping $5.80 per tube, knock yourselves out. There are actually cheaper ones on eBay, but this guy has enough to make quads, and is a reputable seller (I've bought from him several times in the past, but have no other affiliation with him or this auction). If you know how to bias the amp, you should try these. If you don't, bias instruct…

You've lived your whole life as an audiophile experiencing the natural goodness tubes bring to headphone amplification. While others sought refuge in new technologies, in solid state design, you were content to relish in the warmth of heated glass, ignoring any design that did not implement your selfish, no, sinful obsession, with hot, glowing metal through sometimes tinted glass. But what will you do when all the NOS tubes are gone? What will you do when Sovtek 6sn7s go for $750 a pair? Today, this is a lesson you must learn. Look around you. All around this room are popular solid state amp designs in the $1000 dollar or less range, maybe a bit more if you can stretch…

I'm always intrigued by a full line of products from one manufacturer that can pretty much handle all your audio needs. As much praise as I've read about the Opus 21, I'm surprised to have never even heard of the S30 Integrated Amplifier and the XS "Extra Sources"..., um, box thing, which has an MC and MM phono stage, additional inputs including USB, an FM/AM tuner (!!!!!!), and a headphone amplifier. Can't find much about these two components around the world wide internet. Anybody ever seen them, heard them, or read a review of them?

I just checked Craig's site...

Hi Everyone, Just got promoted and my Birthday is coming up soon, So I’d like to treat myself with a new Amp. I've just bought a Sennheiser HD 800s Headphones and I'm looking for an Amp to pair it with. Please note the following before answering my question. 1- I have a Marantz Cinema 30 AV Receiver supposedly a top-of-the-line unit that has a built-in DAC. 2- I will mainly use the Headphones for 80% Watching Movies, Football, Sports & 20% for Music " Heavy Metal, Rock and Movies Soundtracks". My Question, 1- Which Amp do you recommend to connect to my Marantz Cinema 30 and my Sennheiser HD 800s Headphones? 2- Is the DAC in the Marantz sufficient or …

After doing my first recable I find that I would like to see if really running left/right separate make a difference. So now I am looking for a nice easy cheap (!) solution. Ideas anyone?

I'm looking for a SS amp+DAC integrated unit that is known to primarily pair well with the Denon D2000 but could possibly also work well with the Beyer DT990. Both are bassy and have recessed mids, but the listening experience using both for Rock/Metal is pretty different and I prefer one over the other based mainly on my mood. The D2000 sound is "fuller" and more intimate, I guess more "real" sounding compared to the DT990. Its bass response is also pretty much in your face - can really feel the impact. In contrast, the DT990 has a leaner sound and seems to me to be a less fatigueing HP that I prefer when listening for a longer period of time and/or working on somethi…

3 years ago I gave some equipment to a friend to store for me and I just picked it back up. 99% of everything looks great, but it appears my RKV was left out on a shelf (unplugged) and has accumulated quite a bit of dust. Before I fire it back up any suggestions on how to get it relatively clean? Would not look forward to scraping out a ton of dust with a Q-tip.

I find the built in headphone amp in my E-MU0404USB is really lacking compared to my M^3. So I've been thinking about getting the Mini^3. Or I'll entertain other amps in its price range.

I recently purchased a Blue Hawaii (DIY) and it looks great. I am ensuring that all is well, and I am performing some measurements on the amplifier prior to plugging in my headphones (SR-Omega.) The amplifier was built in a single chassis and uses Headamp's boards from 2004. One thing I noticed while examining Kevin's project page for the Blue Hawaii is that it calls for +-450v and +-15v outputs on the PSU. However, the Headamp KGSS/Blue Hawaii (as labeled) supply boards seems to output +/-360v and +/-15v. This seems to be closer to the KGSS specification. Does this throw off the amplifier sections in any way? Finally, when I measures from Bias output to Ground on …