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I had totally forgotten about krmathis!

My point was that why on earth would you fuck up one of the cleanest amplifier circuits there are with a tube preamp, as I've never seen one that is well designed and will not do more harm than good. To me tube rolling is just a practice that makes no sense, especially in circuits like the BHSE/T2. Sure they will sound different, has anybody ever matched the quad of tubes to each other (?) but are there any actual improvements? You know, the real stuff...stuff we can actually measure? Not soul of the music, how it makes me feel bullshit. This does bring us to what is "tube sound". Since I received three emails just now from Carbon owners laughing at the retarded notion Mulveling put forward on HF that the Carbon doesn't have "tube mids", what the actual fuck is that? I mean seriously, can anybody tell me? I mean his Carbon isn't a Carbon, it is a badly built mess of V0.1 boards when we are at V6.0 for my "production" version. That amp must be doing something truly fucked up shit but I'd really like to know what. For me tube sound is just distortion so when people claim some tubes sound "warmer", yup that's more distortion for you. I know to many of the idiots out there I come off a 009 hater but in actual fact, they just aren't that good but how many haters would set out to design a special amp for something they hated? Ehh none but these clueless fuckers really can't get their head around that the Carbon was my project from the beginning to try and improve the 009. I drew up so many different ideas from super simple to crazy complicated shit but this one proved to be the best. More power into the top end plus some other neat things which didn't always follow what we'd normally do. Since it was pointed out that my T2 wasn't working and I fucked it up. Mine was the second one built and suffered what any amp can, shorting through the insulators on the transistors which blew up an entire channel, making it unfit for repair. What I did was to completely redesign the T2 amplifier board, spent probably 10 hours just fixing layout issues making it the best board yet. Built and my amp works perfectly, still not better than a Carbon which any fool would know from looking at the design. As Kevin pointed it out so nicely when I proposed doing an all SS T2; "why bother, we have the Carbon". Yeah, he was right and I'm still sitting on probably the largest stash of T2 parts in the world. I could easily build 150 amps so why wouldn't I? Because the Carbon is better... I also find it so funny that we keep having the same arguments and this is identical with the Cavalli/Woo Audio/RSA/Single Power etc. supporters. They have zero technical knowledge or any clue what they are talking about but this is what makes it funny...arguing with the people who actually designed the stuff. I don't think you can get any more retarded than that...

Got out for a nice 40 miler this morning. Glad I went out at 6am as the heart was already starting to build. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Absolutely agree as a technical matter that being able to swing full voltage at 20 kHz is better than not being able to. The SRX Plus, for example, is not able to do so, and in fact, as I posted in that thread, actually measurably rolls off at lower frequencies as the output voltage increases (it's flat at 100 VRMS to over 20 kHz which is pretty loud, though). BTW, KG's calculation is actually a minimum estimate of the current required, because a stat headphone is not a capacitor - it makes NOISE, e.g. music, which means it has to consume ADDITIONAL current over what a capacitor requires. However, as Dr. Gilmore points out, the question is, how loudly do you listen and how much actual audio content is there at 20 kHz. There is actually some data on the latter point. A number of years ago, Peter Baxandall and Nelson Pass both measured slew rates in recorded music and both came to similar conclusions, namely that an amplifier capable of reproducing a 6 kHz sine wave (yes, 6 kHz, that is not a misprint) with low distortion is adequate for music signal, because of the natural roll-off of musical instruments. Note that this was equivalent to the fastest music signal they found, and that everything else they measured was SLOWER than that. More recently, Baxandall published that he had found a recorded music signal that required an amp to be capable of reproducing a 15 kHz sine wave with low distortion. That is significantly faster, and in fact is within striking distance of the 20 kHz signal at full output voltage requirement - however, it must be noted that this is a unique event, and for almost all music the lower requirement is adequate. Is it appropriate for a state of the art amplifier to aim for the more stringent requirement? Absolutely! Will the lower requirement suit the needs of most? Probably. Of course, extra headroom is always nice - but there is a cost. For Stereophile Class A, the cost is always worth it, almost by definition. For Stereophile Class B, the question is, how much can you cut back for as little sonic cost as possible. Finally, if you listen at lower levels, the requirements decrease accordingly. This is why spritzer suggested to Tyll that he listen to electrostatic headphone amps at high levels to differentiate between them - because this stresses the amp the most.

I posted this over there, will post here. if I had time I would find to do a way to do the graph that shows frequency response relative to output voltage, maybe in a few days if people don't get it so here is how this works Required Slew Rate = 2 x π x Frequency x Peak Voltage x K we can argue about K later, different people have different ideas about the value.The load is a capacitor and it takes a particular amount of current to charge/discharge the capacitor at a particular frequency and voltage. Lets reference the maximum peak to peak output voltage of the amplifier at 1khz as 0db. Now lets calculate what amount of current is needed to do 20khz at 0db at the same peak to peak voltage into one standard headphone load, 120pf Now lets figure out (and this part gets complicated) how much more current is needed to guarantee .01% thd at 20khz at 0db. taking into account the open loop gain. Its clear that some of my earlier amplifiers with output currents in the range of 5ma to 10ma cannot do full voltage swing at 20khz. But will do a full flat frequency response at less than full voltage swing. So the question is how loud do you listen and how much actual audio content is at 20khz relative to 1khz. It is my opinion that 20ma however is enough to do full voltage swing even with 500V power supplies. 2sc4686,2sc3675,2sc5466 etc, cannot do more than about 10ma before they eventually blow up. Even with lots of heatsinking. And ixta3n120 has so much output capacitance that even with impossible current numbers it could never get there from here. Cree C2m1000 however can run at at least 30ma at 500V power supplies, is ultra low output capacitance etc. So is the current flavor of the decade output device, till something better comes along. A couple of people think that the carbon is a bit bright at 20ma, and have turned their units down to 18ma. This is one way that the amplifier can be tuned. The performance of an el34 at 20ma begins to effect the lifetime of the tube. Significantly. emission labs 20B work fine at 20ma, but have a stupid price and questionable long term reliability. There is no free lunch.

Going to see these ladies tonight, looking very forward!

EGGS BAO'NEDICT Canadian bacon filled golden steamed bun, poached eggs, hollandaise, pork floss Viet style bacon - grilled pork belly marinated in fish sauce and carmel

Is that the FR of with different amounts of feedback? If you keep feedback constant, I think it just clips, rather than rolls off gracefully. Here's a sim of an ES-X sort of deal. I stepped the source amplitude at 100mV, 1V, and 10V (some people have silly DACs). The EL34 (6CA7 in sim) is at 6mA and rails are +/- 400V, 120pF load. Happy to try different parameters. FR does not seem to change in the magical ideal world of Spice? http://imgur.com/a/2uglC Of course, the current requirement into the load increases with frequency and signal level. The blue line crosses at 10mA, and shows the frequency at which current limiting would occur for different amounts of voltage swing. http://imgur.com/qh0esa3 However, output distortion gets gross well before clipping. At 1 kHz: http://imgur.com/vJAiMyW This shows clipping into the rails. And at 10 kHz: http://imgur.com/u1sD8ze Waveforms: http://imgur.com/UYLhk9W This one shows current limiting.

are you completely out of your mind, that would take me a week. ok, here is something quick that gives you the idea 4 x lm741 at different gain levels why it looks like crap and the background is not black, not sure and resulting phase

Chill AF

Dew eet! I can't wait to beat you in PCars on this track after you run this! You know, like I did at your "home track." **BRENT**

Realllllllly tempted to blow off work next Friday for this:

I think if you go up to 100$ then the shipping is free. Something to think about... That is a good question as most of the fiddling I did to the Carbon circuit after the common release was to make it work better with the 009. Now this isn't the idiotic audiophile notion of tuning (i.e. put in some different parts) but rather seeing what actually enhances the performance of the transducer. The end result is the best I've heard the 009's but they will never be my go to set. They are just too fucked to be ever taken seriously but the amp does help a lot. Another point of reference are the almost 10 people who own a Carbon and a BHSE. All of them prefer the Carbon with the 009 and that makes perfect sense from a technical point of view. One of them even recently got a brand new BHSE and asked me what he should do with it...the Carbon was much better. Most of this is due to the superior high frequency driving potential. This was a large part of the design process but it naturally works just as well for the 007's. More HF power means they aren't as dark as they used to be. The BHSE will roll off a bit so this is a change to the better.

Steve is correct and... Marc's account has clearly been hijacked to say something so crazy. Dusty, please lock him down!

Yeah, but 126 of those were Some Turtle repeating that one phrase. By the way -- blocking him worked! Of course, then some of the conversation stopped making sense, but it was worth it.

an isolation transformer might be your Sancho Panza, before you set out on this Odyssey. Chances are, you might move a fair bit closer to him upstairs, getting a bit too excited by accident ...

as the BHSE is rarely found in the classifieds and suddenly having almost ten available (I guess that is more than one), you might even be able to choose a yummi color too

Yep. The SR-009s with the Carbon is my preference over the BHSE, the Carbon is right up there at just about DIYT2 level. From my listening tests the Golden Reference Low Voltage supplies have also pushed performance considerably, it’s exclusion from a build is something that may weigh in.

What JP said. Gary is a great guy!

Hm...

Test Tone @ Home live right now: http://mixlr.com/illuminator/chat

So this is interesting re: archiving SACDs using the Oppo. http://www.computeraudiophile.com/f11-software/sacd-ripping-using-oppo-or-pioneer-yes-its-true-29251/

Blueberry pie, with blueberries we picked yesterday. It will be consumed withe some ice cream after dinner.

Love the new seal!

https://imgur.com/gallery/M2zQ84O

I've only built the prior version of the smaller board (before the relays were flipped). Everything works well on that version. I've got the latest board ready to build. Just need some time. Let us know if you get it working.

I've mentioned the reasons why I'm getting a Carbon to use as well as the BHSE, but another reason is after hearing one of the recent 007mk2's, I plan on getting one of those, or at least I'm going to find out if Stax can do something I've also mentioned. Now if I'd known when getting the K-01 ( 2011 ) what I know now, I would've had the money to get both a Carbon and 007 because I wouldn't have bought that Esoteric, at the time getting that K-01 though I believed the more an audio piece cost the better it should sound, however the Yggy has proved to me just how stupid that belief was. I'm mentioning that because in 2011 the K-01 cost me £15,000, whereas the Yggy that I got several months ago cost me £1850, and I'm enjoying the Yggy more than I did the K-01. P.S. In selling the K-01 I lost a very large amount of what I paid for it, so hopefully others won't make the same mistake as me.

Gary Marshall created some amazing shows and movies, and Mork and Mindy easily outweighs Joanie Loves Chachi. RIP Mr Marshall.

I'm getting so tired of these inane posts of yours but I'll bite for the last time. These amps have been discussed a few times but you are clearly too lazy to look it up. This is really the "lipstick on a pig" way of building amps. Shitty circuits that are badly implemented but throw enough expensive parts at it to make the poor souls stupid enough to pay for this happy. Seriously, it is pure joy to read the Demograph posts on the Russian forum, he's like Mikhail from Singlepower but with even less skill. Utterly delusional and once claimed Kevin and I didn't understand the "soul" of the music...what ever the fuck that means. Ohhh wait I know what it means. It's just the standard reply used by any peddler of sub-par gear when called on their shit. Let's call high distortion, high noise and no ability to drive the load at hand "soul".

Good advise. I use those wooden coffee stirrers at Starbucks as spacers while soldering the resistors to the boards. When done, pull 'em out. Gives a nice uniform outcome.

Sous vide porterhouse. Around 2 hrs at 129F and seared in a grill pan (it's raining). Perfect medium rare.