Leaderboard

It turned out really good. And will make tacos for a week.

Brent just looks at boobies and drools.

Made a pan of my Mom's cheese enchiladas.

Tossed on the 18lb wagyu brisket. I think it may be the last brisket the old Treager sees. Time to upgrade. Darn.

^ this. I can appreciate this version... thanks Rob.

FWIW I use these https://www.te.com/commerce/DocumentDelivery/DDEController?Action=showdoc&DocId=Data+Sheet1-1773878-3_Alcoswitch_AntiVandal0517pdfEnglishENG_DS_1-1773878-3_Alcoswitch_AntiVandal_0517.pdf2213775-3 The style I use is at the top of the second page.

The Bezos has my back.

Damn that looks good! Do you now import your Pink brisket fairy paper?

I've mentioned in another thread how much I've underestimated the advances in dacs in the the last decade. Although there are other recently introduced dacs I'd love to hear (looking at you Denafrips Pontus) I couldn't love the Chord Qutest more (well, maybe if it had balanced outs and a power switch). If someone is compiling a list, you may want to add it. If I didn't have other financial pulls (damn you photo gear) I'd probably have picked up a second unit for a different system. Gave up local digital music storage nearly a decade ago, so Roon is a complication here. All Quboz, Youtube, streaming radio, various other streams now (when not playing vinyl).

I actually find Roon both simplifying and more satisfying. Cannot see myself going back. I will actually buy a lifetime membership when this years subscription runs out. If i wait too much longer it won’t be worth it

Back home deck brunch (on a Monday?)

Ex:Re Ex:Re with 12 Ensemble

Doing anything else with digital media is nervosa. Streamers? Roon? Pi2AES? FFS.

I had to pause this project for a bit, but I'm picking it back up now. I've had issues with some of the batteries I've been testing. I'm going to try and get a clean set and test with my current 3S balancer as well as a stock (ebay) 3S battery protection circuit.

I think I saw a review of this! Apparently it'll work well if you're using a grinder that produces many fines, and the costs work out in a way such that your initial investment plus this sieve (~50 USD) is less than, say, a Baratza Encore.

So you say there's a chance... HS

The 100K vs 500K trimmer does not effect the adjustment range that much, I have used both but not longer implement the trimmer adjustment in my builds because there are better and cheaper ways to get reasonably high output accuracy. The 1M ohm resistors have a larger effect on the adjustment range then the value of the trimmer. You will get very little adjustment range - just a few mV using 1M resistors. Reducing the 1M resistors to 810K still only gives a few 10s of mv adjustment. This is still typically not enough to correct the inaccuracy in output due to 1% resistors in the voltage set circuit anyway. So unless you go for 0.1% resistors in the voltage set, don't bother implementing the voltage trimming because it will not have enough range. Remember too the larger the adjustment range the lower the temperature stability of the output - almost all trimmers have temperature co efficient that are 10x worse than 0.1% resistors. So the to summarise options are 1. 1% resistors in voltage set + trimmer. disadvantage trimmer not enough adjustment range to connect for 1% resistors plus loss of temperature stability plus good quality trimmers are not cheap. 2. 1% resistors in voltage set + no trimmer, cheapest option with better temperature stability than option 1 and not much worse voltage accuracy 3. 0.1% resistors in voltage set and no trimmer. best temperature stability. Voltage accuracy much better than option 1 or 2 and only slightly more expensive than option 2 4. 0.1% resistors in voltage set and trimmer. better temperature stability than option 1 but highest cost of all the options. Only useful if you really must have an exact output voltage and you have a 5.5 digit volt meter or better to measure it with. A good quality soldering iron is a must especially if you are going to solder high voltage boards or smd. I use the hakko fx888d - which has a terrible user interface but otherwise works well for the builds in these forums and has a wide range of tips available. There are irons with more wattage, faster heating tips etc but for me the 888d was a good compromise between quality and price. I have used jlcpcb for all my pcbs and have never had a track lift when soldering and only had one through hole lift when desoldering and that was me being careless and forceful rather than pcb quality issues. I use a duratool disordering station (because I hate desolder wick) but other members love solderwick. I entirely agree with Pars unleaded solder is garbage, I tried lead free soldering and gave up and went back to lead. Lead free needs higher temperatures which means more joint oxidisation and trip wear which means more flux and more aggressive flux to stop the oxidations which means more tip wear - and the flux fumes are very bad for you all. The smoke during soldering is not vaporising lead its flux fumes and lead free makes this worse. The only time leaded solder is dangerous is if you eat it. The leaded free solder makes poorer joints which crack more easily because the joints are more brittle. When the EU tried to get rid of leaded solder the military, aerospace and other industries requiring high reliability were either exempt or "opted out" because of high failure rates and reliability issues with lead free. Its only really consumer goods that went lead free... There are some good guides to soldering technique and the need for flux on youtube: good luck with the transistors James

You need to get a more suitable solder iron, and I would invest in a solder sucker as well, such as an Edsyn Soldapullt or something like that. I'm not sure where you got your board from, but on any of the HC boards, I've never even come close to lifting a pad. Same with 1oz boards from seeedstudio, etc. Also, if you are using lead-free solder, one word: DON'T

Old Georgetown New Georgetown

Yes! Come on over... Turns out the Plasma Drive module doesn't fit all the way to the right in the Mantis case I got, so I had to move it to the center. It looks ridiculous when you're driving a signal through it with the voltage turned up:

And then

Checked my online banking this morning to find a couple fraudulent charges on my debit card. 😒 Called my bank as soon as customer service hours started, and got a dispute filed and new card issued with a five minute phone call. So at least that part was painless.

They told me to stay away from Eurorack. Probably right. But. This. Is. Head. Case. What's better than overkill? Gigakill. https://www.modulargrid.net/e/racks/view/1656497 https://www.modulargrid.net/e/racks/view/1656633 https://www.modulargrid.net/u/racks/view/1656639 And I'm already out of rack space.

I don’t know, I never weighed him.

^ I don't understand, what does that scale have to do with Patrick 182? 😋

What happened. Did you chicken out?

This looks worthy of a road trip.