nikongod

I love my 24F2.8 AIS. The prophet Ken Rockwell (and yes I'm joking about the prophet thing) assures us that the optics are the same. That being said, I would decide on a FOV~=focal length, and go from there. Its not *really* fair to compare such widely dis-similar focal lengths. Or since this is head-case, just buy them all. Because 24mm. Remembering by Lord Nikon 12, on Flickr Bridge in the fog by Lord Nikon 12, on Flickr

It is just short of 2 years away, but I thought this story may be interesting to the Washington-DC contingent: http://www.washingtonpost.com/news/digger/wp/2015/01/28/rei-to-open-flagship-store-at-uline-arena/ REI opening new flagship store.

Steer far far far away from any TT with automatic anything. Adjustable VTA is nice, but also not I think the audiophile community makes MUCH more of VTA than is necessary because a modern tonearm needs to be designed to be put on who-knows-what TT with who-knows-what height from the plinth to the platter. TT's designed to "just work out of the box" (by engineers {who got payed to do that}) can easily get VTA to within a few MM for any cartridge with a fixed tonearm.

SA5K are also very placement-sensitive*. It sounds weird, but they might just fit your head better than other people. That being said, I can never reallllly get their treble down to what I consider flat (HD800ish). * Most headphones are, actually.

Craigslist - mid 80's to early 90's high quality turntable. Integrated receiver (1970-mid 90's?) with phono input. Will probably have a niceish radio tuner and probably a passable speaker amp if you shop carefully. New cartridge, or at the very least a new stylus if the TT comes with something niceish. Maybe a record and stylus brush to help with the dust bunnies. There is no reason to spend more than $200 all things told, and you can often do MUCH less if you are careful, patient, or already have some of the parts.

I have a Fortis. I like it a lot. Edit: Please excuse the overall lack of quality of this picture. I took it before I figured out how to edit photos.

He shot it with a Canon. That's the whitest they can do. Jk

Much like Whisky comes from Scotland and Whiskey comes from North America Hocky is actually curling, and Hockey is the North American game. While the 2 drinks share some similarities, and the 2 games share some similarities, I'm not sure how anyone could confuse them.

If this is for real (I sooooo hope it is) I move that we start a new thread for the event.

Happy Birthday Mike!

I prefer A. B requires more parts=more part matching.

Circuit B should show 1/2R2=R2*0.5 for each of the "R2" to ground, if it is to give the same attenuation as Circuit A.

Although I am not entirely la-la-loving Fear and loathing in LasVegas (its growing on me...) this: http://petapixel.com/2015/01/19/hunter-s-thompson-problem-focusing-much-technicals-photography/

Happy Birthday Grahame!

Still mucho better than a resistor I would be curious to see what results you get by setting the current purely by varying the value of a resistor between the source and ground, instead of applying a voltage to the gate. I know it should not make any difference, but I think it might. My reasoning is as follows: In the full graphs you can see that the slopes of current vs voltage are different with different Rs. As Rs increases the slope of the current VS voltage line decreases at similar currents*. My thinking is that if Rs was not important, the slopes of the curves closest to 10mA would not change. *Its kind of hard to see whats going on in Rs=0ohm, but comparing the lines closest to 10mA from Rs=0 & 10ohm - 11 to like 19 (8mA) vs 10 to like 13 (3mA) Rs=10ohm VS 24.9ohm @10mA - 3mA(10 ohm as above) VS either 8 to 9mA or 11 to 12.5mA (about 1.25mA) for the 24.9ohm curve. The 49ohm curves dont go to 10mA, but at lower currents they are flatter still than the 24.9ohm curves if you compare at ~5mA.

You can reset the infinity marker on the 14F2.8 It is, I agree, not very sharp at F2.8 If its any help (doubtful I would even listen to my own advice here) I would stick with something in the 18 to 24mm range of primes for travel. The Nikon 24F2.8 is relatively small/light, and optically pretty pretty.

I have a set of closed-back ESP-950 that I bought a few years ago. They are not exactly the suck, but mneh. Bass is WAY lower than anyone would expect with the fully closed back, but mids and highs are pretty nice. Yes, as you guys guessed above, they are fairly "slapped together." Mine had tool-marks where it looked like a badge was removed (there was speculation that they used the cups from whichever the high end(ish) closed studio can was before it was discontinued) and NO damping material in the actual cups. Take them apart, drill a few 1/4" holes in the cups (experiment! plus I don't remember how many holes I have in mine) and they improve significantly.

HAppy Birthday Grahame!

Kinda the same as Dunkin Donuts, in a different way. I kinda prefer Tim Horton. There are a few in NYC.

Happy Birthday Guys

I love stuff like this. Or LaserDisc...

Wait. You can do that?

I too am in the market for a mattress, and the Casper was suggested to me by Facebook who saw that Brent likes them.* Any word on how the Casper mattress does "in the sack" to use the parlance of our times? I will be in the vicinity of their showroom on Thursday so I will get to test the "lying down" performance. *Proof that ad campaigns on facebook do in fact work. FUCCCCK. I am aware that its working, and I still look.