n_maher

Steve, Awesome.

Halt Birthday Jack!

I just took the dimensions shown on one of Tom's pdfs.

Zoe Keating - Into The Trees

You can bet good $$ that I won't be cutting the holes for the motor run caps my 307A will be using! And I think the 100uF/370VAC caps that I used for the outputs on the original Menace were roughly the size of a can of soda.

I have yet to encounter a 5U* that had a rise time anything like a 5AR4 and I'd wager that I used just about all of them. Certainly the GA, GB and plain G did not in the Menace or HA-2. And yes, 68uF is a great target, although still a pretty big can.

The books are pretty entertaining, I'll say that. I keep meaning to revisit the show but haven't gotten around to it.

I'd try to get the capacitance in the last filter stage down a bit if you can, motor runs of that size (100uF) are brutal chassis work. And really, if you're going to tube-rectify the thing it'd be a sin to use electrolytic caps. :evil: EDIT - and I'd go with the 5AR4 over the 5U any day, its semi-soft start is a welcome bonus.

I'll try to call tonight Steve. EDIT: this thread wasn't meant to be locked, not sure why my phone did that...

Steve, With the amp board disco'd from the power supply measure the following: V+ to G V- to G output to ground

Steve, With the amp board disco'd from the power supply measure the following: V+ to G V- to G output to ground

magic smoke ftmfw

Happy Birthday Matt!

Rest in peace Fred, and sorry for your loss Steve. I'm glad you got to be there with him, together to the end seems right.

The funny thing is Marc, I've never had a blown beta22 blow fuses. Even the ones with cooked output stages would still turn on. I can't fathom what non-visible failure of this amp would cause it to draw excessive current at startup. But I'd certainly like to see some pictures before Steve throws another fuse in and hits the button.

Steve, Post the specs of the fuses that you bought please. And a clear internal shot of the amp with the cover off would be great too, if you can.

No wifi at work. Not a common problem, I admit, but a problem for me nonetheless.

Comfortably day-long for me so far but no longer even a concern with the dock on my desk. On heavy use days I was around 20% on the way home.

The screen is fantastic and the phone itself is no larger than my iphone was in the otterbox case. Actually it is much thinner than that phone was and as expected V's network kicks the crap out of att's. It's still not a perfect device but I like it a lot better than the iphone as a total package. Simply being able to download a podcast wihout having to connect to a compy is pure win.

I have audio ADD (and more specifically DIY ADD) as much if not more than the next guy but I honestly wouldn't be all that excited by the Crack. It's an extremely simple project, designed for the newest of newbies, and while it might teach you a little bit about PTP you don't need it to learn and it's a pretty non-awe-inspiring project from where I sit. It's like saying you love to play baseball and then joining a t-ball league. Sure, you'd be really good, but dang it'd get boring quick. For someone like yourself who has built some pretty complex projects (albeit PCB based) I'd think you'd find it much more satisfying to find an interesting schematic and go from there. Make yourself do all of the layout work, figure out what you want the aesthetic to look like, etc. I did this with the first Menace and TC and I simply can't adequately say how rewarding a process that was. I still have fun with PCB based builds since I really do enjoy the chassis fab aspect, but I'm itching to get started on the 307A project and expect it'll take months to build it. Also, don't shy away from a scratch build because the chassis fab might be difficult, the Menace TC top panel was done almost entirely in FPE's software. I could have easily done something like this and used a hammond aluminum chassis for the base.

HAPPY BIRTHDAY!

PM me your # Steve, I'll try to call you tonight.

They looked pretty ok with the drivers installed.

More progress, tried to use the mill to its greatest advantage to cut a slot for the switch instead of a hole. Came out pretty good, oddly enough the ill fitting piece on the front panel was the headphone jack which sat neither square nor flat but was pretty easily adapter to even after the main hole was drilled for it. There's the slightest lip on the slot for the switch which should come off when I apply the brushed finish to the aluminum but as is it looks fine from distances greater than 1'. In case anyone is curious the slot is 7/32" x 1/4".