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Blue Hawaii Special Edition


pabbi1

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With me having a smaller than average head ???,  and that I've been shaving it for sometime, I never had a problem getting the 007's to fit properly, however with the shape of the inner ear pads reminding me of a half moon, and the cups swivelling, there was a bit of messing about getting the right fit, but once got I was quite happy with the comfort.

As I mentioned though, the comfort of my 009's are a lot more comfortable than the 007's, in fact I also have the HD-600's and I think my 009's are as comfortable as those senn's, even though the HD-600's are quite a bit lighter.

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My biggest issue with the SR-007 comfort is that I have to pull the earcups down pretty far go get them over my ears. So for us "larger headed users" they aren't the most comfortable. The SR-009s however are very comfortable!

 

I was never able to get the fit right either. A lot of headphones just won't fit my noggin. I think my head is more cone like and long than big, causes issues with just about every one size fits all can.

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Have you written any posts on how to adjust the fit for 007s properly? I'm too much of a wuss to bend my pair around with abandon

 

I have in the past but the key thing is to make them comfortable, then the fit is correct.  For the cone people you need to make the arc into an inverse U shape and then adjust the angle above the ears.  One good way to test is to place your hands behind your head and change the angle of the cups relative to the head without breaking the seal.  Ohh and don't obstruct the backwave either as that messes up everything. 

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I have a melon of a head so it can be done. :) Seriously, when I was graduating from the Icelandic equivalent of collage we get these ceremonial caps to wear. Everybody was lined up to be fitted and when it was my turn the lady looked at me in horror and said "you're a special order..." ;D

Then I must have a pumpkin head.

On my recently purchased 009s, over several days I had to bend the fuck out of the arc to get them to do proper bass. They now are sitting very light on my head and ears, especially since I am coming from LCD-3s.

The 009s are playing wonderfully with my KGST now.

post-4504-0-74421700-1415321396_thumb.jp

Edited by Laowei
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While I'm happy with the 3 shelves audio rack I had made from a drawing I did, the only shelf I can put the BHSE's amp section is the top one, and the problem with that is it leaves the tubes open and more susceptible to being caught.

So I did another drawing of an audio rack where the BHSE's amp section will be placed on the second to top shelf which in turn will protect the tubes more.

 

With how I've designed this new audio rack, there'll be plenty of ventilation for the BHSE, and the way I'm rearranging my living room this new audio rack will fit in better than the old one.

I'll still be using the old audio rack, but I'll be having the legs cut below the top shelf, which will be almost splitting the rack in half, I'll then have turned in to two coffee tables.

 

The frame of this new audio rack is made of the same stuff as the old one, mild steel.

 

The new rack is made so I'm now having it powder coated matt black, it also has 5 shelves but with me having them 20" wide, only one unit can be placed on one shelf which is what I wanted, apart from the bottom shelf where I'll be placing the BHSE's PSU and my MacMini. I use the MacMini as a music server to my K-01's DAC.

 

 

 

post-3092-0-54011200-1415352096_thumb.jp   

 

 

This is a photo of my old audio rack which the shelves are wenge wood, the shelves of the new one will be plyboard and covered in carbon fibre wrapping.

 

 

 

 

 

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Thanks morphsci, however I've seen the new audio rack and even though it hasn't been powder coated yet, I prefer it to the one I have.

I also think the lay out of my audio equipment will look better than it is on the one in the photo.

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Another "nice rack" to you Dave R.  I'm taking woodworking classes through adult ed here.  My first solo project is a turntable stand made of white oak.  I was going to modify this design:

 

wood-towel-stand.jpg

 

to be about 40" high with three 30" x 20" shelves, but I think I prefer your design so I'll probably do something like it instead.

 

Your design would be more stable and I wouldn't have to go through the effort of drilling holes, cutting legs and drilling legs and lining everything up on assembly.  Yours also gives more usable space on the shelves.  Of course, it adds the complexity of cutting dados but that's easy enough to do with a table saw.

 

Hope you don't mind if I do use your design.  If so, please let me know.

Edited by guzziguy
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bjSXjnSh.jpg

 

This Blue Hawaii lives again. :)  It will need a new transformer but for that I'm just waiting on Toroidy. 

 

Gone are the dual DACT's in favor of one quad pot and a front mounted, rotary power switch.  I increased the current of the main CCS, changed out a bunch of parts and rebuilt the PSU.  All good now and no hum at all which was the issue before the PSU imploded

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With this being the BHSE thread, I guess I shouldn't really be posting  photos of my audio rack, or mentioning anything about it, but my BHSE is placed on that rack so I thought it would be OK to show it on this thread.

 

While I came up with the idea of having the legs at the outside of the shelves and the frame being made of mild steel and welded, someone else might've done something like this before me, but I've never seen any racks similar to the one I have.

 

I decided to have the frame made of mild steel then welded because my source is around 33kg, and because that rack will hold many times that weight, I'm not worried about it collapsing.

 

You are more than welcome to use the design of my audio rack guzziguy, but you might want to wait until Tuesday when I'll be getting my new audio rack where I'll be posting some photos.

I won't have the plyboard at that time because I need to have the rack to get the exact measurement of the inside of the angled steel.

 

 I'm just waiting for the powder coating to be done but this new rack is a similar shape to the rack you've posted, but the legs are on the outside of the shelves like with the one I have, and the frame again is made of mild steel, the 5 shelves are also a different distance apart.

 

With this new rack though, I've decided to get some 1mm metal sheets which will go under the plyboard shelves, this is just to give extra support.

 

I'll be placing a strip of foam rubber on the inside of the angled steel, then putting the 1mm metal shelves on that foam rubber which might stop any unwanted vibration.

 

 

 

The photos are of my audio rack with and without the wenge shelves, the shelves just fit inside the angled steel.

I took those photos sometime ago so I've had my living room decorated since.

 

post-3092-0-70490000-1415468313_thumb.jp  post-3092-0-06853100-1415469919_thumb.jp

 

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Please post a link here. :)

 

OK I'll do that.

What I'll do is complete the new rack by putting the plyboard shelves in after I've covered them with carbon fibre wrapping, then take one photo of just the rack frame, then with the shelves in, and one with my audio equipment on.

I'll also show a photo of my audio equipment as it is on the audio rack I have now, which will show the difference between the two layouts.

 

While I'm very happy with the wenge wooden shelves, I decided to use carbon fibre wrapping on the shelves for my new rack because my BHSE and Bybee power purifier have silver faceplates with matt black enclosures, and my source and Macmini are all silver.

I also decided to use carbon fibre wrapping on the shelves because that's what I put on the headband I did for my 009's, which I very much like. 

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Thank you for the link, but my new audio rack is made and is being powder coated.

I also prefer this audio rack to any other because it's the exact look and size I wanted, as well as that it's extremely strong.

Regarding the shelves, I'm using plyboard covered with carbon fibre wrapping, but I could use any wood.

I was going to have 1mm metal shelves done to fit under the plyboard, but Mick ( the owner of the place that did the frame of the audio rack ) said there'd be no need because the thickness of the plyboard would be sufficient.

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