Hm, what's the best way to carry off the heat? Some sort of copper heatsink/PCB, or maybe just use the chip for low currents and then add a current gain stage or two which I can heatsink separately?

What do you think of this crazy contraption? I hope there's an easy way to reach the underneath side to screw in the transistor. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-Heatsink-12-5-8-x-9-1-4-x-4-41-Fins-/250878987971?_trksid=p4340.m1374&_trkparms=algo%3DPI.WATCH%26its%3DC%252BS%26itu%3DUCC%26otn%3D15%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D2644790686354610786

That's made for fan cooling. You stick a fan on the end and blow air through the vanes.

You'd tap the holes in the heatsink and screw the transistor onto the heatsink, using insulation as required.

Edited September 14, 201114 yr by wink

You'd tap the holes in the heatsink and screw the transistor onto the heatsink, using insulation as required.

That absolutely won't work. You need a custom PCB this case.

So, I'm looking for a part recommendation. I used to be able to find a certain brand 0.25" QC female connector that had an insulated outside that I could pull off (usually by putting the female part on a male stud and pulling real quick), then I could solder the wire to the connector (not crimp) then put the outside part back on. These days, none of the ones I've found will allow the outside to be as easily removed.

Anyone have a good part they use? Perhaps the better idea is to just heat shrink a bare connector? The connector will be carrying mains voltages, at about 3A.

I usually heatshrink a bare connector. I have yet to find a pre insulated type that allows the insulation to move around. If you use 2 sizes you can usually get it so you can still connect and disconnect freely.

May seem like a stupid question, but what do you guys usually use for LED's (I was hoping for the bright blue variety) as well as bezel's for said LED's (black would be preferrable)... I'm doing a mouser order so part numbers would be most gratefully appreciated.

May seem like a stupid question, but what do you guys usually use for LED's (I was hoping for the bright blue variety) as well as bezel's for said LED's (black would be preferrable)... I'm doing a mouser order so part numbers would be most gratefully appreciated.

vacuum tubes?

vacuum tube is indeed the superior glow-in-the-dark experience.

I have a "Bill" halogen desk lamp made by Tobias Grau that uses a funky transformer box that plugs into the wall. It is about 10 years old and for awhile now only works erratically/sporadically. It turns on fine then usually just goes out after a few minutes. The cord seems fine and it is not movement that turns it off. It will not turn back on anytime soon but I have not done experiments to figure out the timing or pattern.

Anyway, I wondered whether the transformer could be the cause. Does anyone have a thought on that theory?

Assuming it might be the issue, I checked with the place I bought it and of course the lamp us not made that way any longer. The transformer is built in somehow in newer models. They checked with Tobias Grau who quoted $148 for a replacement transformer for my light. I cannot find it on the internets but if you have any leads or sources please let me know. Here are pics:

Thanks!

Heh, looks like something Mikhail would use (output "range" of 5v)?

hmmm

looks like the replacement has changed - hard wired...

http://www.gvp.it/pages/en/view.asp?Rif=5

Thanks for looking, Mikey. That all seems right except for the funky connector missing.

Send me the old one, I'll have a go at fixing it.

Any idea if it could be the bulb?

Somehow I missed those last two comments, but thanks for chiming in.

After telling me that the transformer is $150 to replace, the shop suggested that I contact one of their lamp repair places. Over the phone, the guy said that the transformer is not likely the cause because it is pretty much a working or not working thing, not what I have been experiencing with the light going out after awhile of being on. He guessed that it might be the socket because the contacts get so hot in old halogen lamps that the solder can actually run and after years it can be minimal enough contact that after it heats up again the contact is lost and the light goes out. I will take it in to have him take a look. Can't hurt, and if it is the socket it will be an easy fix.

Anybody have any idea where I can acquire an Elpac WM071-1950-D5 power supply?

Anybody have any idea where I can acquire an Elpac WM071-1950-D5 power supply?

On EBay occasionally.

On EBay occasionally.

Yep, thanks. None on there now but I will keep looking.

Edit: Justin just informed me the Headroom brick PSU will work if the plug is rewired, so I am going to try that. Pfft, who says HeadAmp has shitty customer service.

Edited October 8, 201114 yr by morphsci

Yep, thanks. None on there now but I will keep looking.

Edit: Justin just informed me the Headroom brick PSU will work if the plug is rewired, so I am going to try that. Pfft, who says HeadAmp has shitty customer service.

Cool! If you need help, just ask!

Yeah, was going to ask if Justin still had any. Though it would be a bit low (+/-12V), there is an Elpac WM063 on ebay. Would have to check the pinout.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ELPAC-PLUG-POWER-SUPPLY-WM063-12VDC-5VDC-/270817596062?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3f0dfc929e

Anybody know where I can get ixys10m90s ? (Three terminal current regulators)

I need 13 of them. I'm having trouble even finding a datasheet.

Mouser: http://ca.mouser.com/ProductDetail/IXYS/IXCP10M90S/?qs=AzHdteqROtke4lsM8lUo2w%3D%3D

futureelectronics: http://www.futureelectronics.com/en/technologies/semiconductors/analog/regulators-reference/linear-regulators/Pages/7171499-IXCP10M90S.aspx

Now, I'm not sure where you are, but if you live outside of the US I believe future electronics is the better option, because they do not have export restriction on these devices.

Does anyone have a good 4PDT switch that they use for selecting between RCA and XLR input? I bought this one from mouser http://www.mouser.co...LB5PdkEpw%3d%3d

which will work but it's a lot bigger than I was expecting. I would like something more compact.

I like the TOCOS switches that Percy sells, or have used some smaller PCB mount NKK switches, but cannot seems to find a part number at the moment.

Yep, thanks. None on there now but I will keep looking.

Edit: Justin just informed me the Headroom brick PSU will work if the plug is rewired, so I am going to try that. Pfft, who says HeadAmp has shitty customer service.

But he didn't offer to do it for free and cover shipping both ways and throw in a free BHSE. What a jerk.