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i'm on a roll... the kgsshv

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why not? How else would astronauts appreciate hifi in space? :D

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  • After 5 years from the time I acquired the PCBs and parts, I finally took advantage of the free time created by the pandemic and completed my KGSSHV.  This is the offboard version with +/-500V supply.

  • Not sure if we have a KGSS thread but I'll just post this here.  So last year it dawned on me that I built my first KGSS amp 15 years ago and something had to be done to celebrate that.  It started of

Posted Images

Ha-Haaa!

KGSSHV goes to the moon.

Looks like it may have sustained some high altitude damage.kitty.jpg

BTW, are those resistors in backward?laugh.png

Well he specifically said they weren't allowed to warn him off doing it, so they must've been real big dhiks to do it anyways.

Hey, keep my company out of this!

Hey, keep my company out of this!

I'm onto you now. You used your shills to shut him down because you could see his obvious talent and didn't want him to get in the biz!

That's right! He's not the only guy Fitz and I have seen push his way in with a big Dhik.

nlEwq.jpg

I’m gonna need a bigger iron.

Nah, just get a proper one. grin.gif Oki PS-800e has no trouble with those sinks even with a small cone tip. Pretty cheap too given how good it is...

The Oki PS-800e is discontinued, so it will be difficult to buy.

Birgir thanks for the recommendation. My current 40 watter was just competent enough for β22 pcbs, would the KGSSHV boards be comparable for the amount of power and heat needed? I’ve had a bit of a poke around and have seen the PS-900 station for $220aud locally, which is very tempting.

"I can resist everything except temptation" - Oscar Wilde

Be like Oscar. evil.gif

"I can resist everything except temptation" - Oscar Wilde

Be like Oscar. evil.gif

“Beware the hobby that eats.” - Benjamin Frankilin

I’m more a Benjamin cool.png

I had no problem with the KGSSHV boards with the Hakko 936, which I think is 50 watts. I did crank the heat way higher when doing the heatsink pins than I usually use though, I think I was up around 800 degrees F versus 650-700 that I typically use.

You can also heat the PCB (and the heat sink) up with a heat gun. That will help a lot. But the key is as big a tip as you got and a bit of flux.

http://www.amazon.co...ASIN=B000ARU9PO

Pretty good price for the WES51d, which is more or less equivalent to the 936. I use the non digital version all the time at work and it does great, although I'm not typically using it to solder heatsinks there.

Edited by cobra_kai

That's the one I have and I like it a lot.

650-700 is more than I used, did most of my T2 and KGSSHV at 580.

http://www.amazon.co...ASIN=B000ARU9PO

Pretty good price for the WES51d, which is more or less equivalent to the 936. I use the non digital version all the time at work and it does great, although I'm not typically using it to solder heatsinks there.

Thanks for that, picked it up. My first non-radio shack iron. Now I only have EVERYTHING else to get. Spritzer suggested the PS-900 but $250 vs $100 is a lot...

That's the one I have and I like it a lot.

650-700 is more than I used, did most of my T2 and KGSSHV at 580.

What solder did you use? I have recently been using Kester 44 and Kester recommends a 600-700 F temp for it. I took the halfway point of 650 and it seems to be fine. I haven't tried to solder a heatsink yet.

Wasn't Ben talking about Animal Husbandry?

I honestly don't know, I just took it literally, it seems Oscar did get the better of me, I have a PS 900 shipping my way.

I use tin-lead solder with 2% silver. The lead-free solders all have too high a melting point for my liking, and make a dry-looking solder joint. Plus they are susceptible to tin whisker formation - particularly in high voltage gradients.

I notice that Cardas reckon that they have a lead-free solder that is eutectic, which implies that it should solidify without the dull grainy finish of regular lead-free solders - but I haven't tried the stuff.

  • Author

I have no trouble soldering the heatsinks with my weller, but i'm using 50+

year old eutectic solder. And plan on doing so forever, or until my 30+ lbs

of stock runs out.

I use kester 44. 63/37 rosin core .031 diameter. Haven't seen any reason to change solder.

http://www.amazon.co...ASIN=B000ARU9PO Pretty good price for the WES51d, which is more or less equivalent to the 936. I use the non digital version all the time at work and it does great, although I'm not typically using it to solder heatsinks there.

Yup, the WES51 is my iron of choice as well. When I upgraded from my 936 I wanted something with an auto-off function. I've never had any issues with the '51 not being able to provide enough heat.

Thanks for that, picked it up. My first non-radio shack iron. Now I only have EVERYTHING else to get. Spritzer suggested the PS-900 but $250 vs $100 is a lot...

Yeah that is quite a difference but it really is worth it. I do use my PS-800 more though but that's only because I'm too lazy to install a smaller tip on the 900... :)

I use kester 44. 63/37 rosin core .031 diameter. Haven't seen any reason to change solder.

That's what I use too.

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