Do It Yourself

Are the connectors Etymotic uses to attach the cables to the pods of the ER4 custom? I'm thinking of building a cable for them and would hate to splice the original connectors.

Hi guys, Been wanting to build this for some time, and was considering a M3 and σ11 to drive some home made computer speakers. I'm leaning towards a nice 2ch set of full range speakers. Based on the microFonken design. Its been awhile since I've done anything on this scale, as such, it would be much appreciated if I can get some advise/opinions/correction on the attached BOM. Cheers in advance

What is the replacement of the stable pressure pipe? Z4 Anybody know, thank you! STAX SRM-007TA Z3, Z4 Bose sealed diode，

Hi. I want to ask about Raspberry Pi Camera. I am absolute beginner. I want to make a project where Raspberry Pi camera send the image to the Raspberry Pi in greyscale and based on white or black, the stepper motor will rotate forward or backward. I want to ask, is it possible to make this project using Raspberry Pi or do I need to used other microcontroller also?

Could someone post how to do this, or a link?

I just bought some copper tape off ebay. Soooo...what should I tape with it? Biggie.

Corvette

http://www.ebay.com/itm/322416989057?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Looks real in the pic and has a pic of a lockyz output from the curve tracer. Gets good feedback and all. Still no real way for me to tell from the pics. I was hoping to buy a set and ask one of you more experienced users to test them for me to see if they meet original specs.

I've never done this before, but partly due to seeing a pic of an amp that Nate had built, I was thinking of countersinking two screws on the bottom of the l'espressivo torpedo prototype that I am building for my brother. So, a couple of questions: [*]Is a Hammond 1455 case such as what is used thick enough to countersink a 4-40 flat head machine screw in? [*]Countersink bits: do you need one for each size you are doing? I would be most likely to use 4-40 or 6-32. [*]Angle: I see 82

I'd been wanting to build a pair of speakers for a while and finally took the plunge this summer. Right now I've pretty much finished up the bare cabinets and am waiting for a pair of drivers and a couple cross over components to finish them up. So far everything's gone well but I have a couple of questions. With this being my first build, some of my cuts aren't absolutely perfect and so after gluing the panels together, some panels jutted out just a little bit. I ground down the seams which made the surface smooth but now the box isn't perfectly square especially around a couple of corners. You can't really tell by looking but the boxes don't quite sit flat. Woul…

Maybe keeping such things in one place will prove helpful? Maybe not. Anyway, to get the ball rolling, does anyone have a technique for removing a snapped off 4-40 tap from extruded aluminum side rails? Maybe the sort of kit one uses for removing stripped screws would work, but there is no head, essentially. Any other thoughts?

Hey all, I am planning to re-case my Buffalo DAC using a 2U 300mm deep Pesante case from the HiFi2000 case group buy that is going on. For this case I was going to get some custom panels made from Front Panel Express or Cam Expert. Being my first set of custom panels, I am opening my designs up to any and all criticism for the cosmetic aspects...... and if anybody is really bored and has the time, some super-quick checks that I haven't borked any measurements (particularly for the mounting holes) would be greatly appreciated. Firstly, what the design is going to entail...... I will be buying the SPDIF Mux from Twisted Pear. This includes a 4 position switch detailed…

so sorenb really wanted this, so here it is http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/cfaelectrostat.pdf the outputs are 300v darlington transistors just need to find a suitable npn match for the stn9360, and this can be done all surface mount tiny, fully complementary, fully dc coupled, decent input impedance (none of this 75 ohm nonsense) push pull output... edit: PBHV2160ZX looks great for the npn. so you can add one more set of outputs and run up to 500v power supplies balanced input only, and you need 4 of them

So...Black Gate, no more, alas. I noticed in the current issue of AudioXpress that ModWright now has their own line of caps (pdf download). And there were, of course, others -- ClarityCap, Jantzen, Mundorf, Authenticaps (askjanfirst.com?), Auricap (of course). Are any of these any good? Considering how highly ModWright is thought of in the modded source market, I was wondering if anyone has tried their caps yet? I've had vintage gear modified, and happened to have chosen black gates for it, and was quite happy with the results. Were I to do it again (and I probably will), what should be on my short list of caps to try? There is also the old stand-bys -- Panason…

Hey, I was wondering if anyone might know of other attenuation curves, other than the standard log? What I'm thinking of is something that uses multiple logarithmic slopes, but I cannot really expect this to be a novel idea on my part. I have an idea that I'm working out, but was wondering if there was anyone else that has gone down this path? My one requirement is constant input impedance My second question has to do with SMD resistors. I'm looking at the Vishay Dale TNPW and Susumu RG/RGH (due to vanishingly low tempco values), but was wondering if there were other lines out there you guys might be aware of. I'm focusing on thin film resistors at the moment (unless t…

As some of you may know I've got a bit of history with the Millett Hybrid Amplifier. It all started about a year ago when I set out to build a headphone amp for each of the members of my wedding party (all music lovers who use headphones in some manner). Two of these came together rather quickly as they were pretty much bone stock Hybrids. The third of the bunch which was to be built for en480c4 got a bit more complicated. First was the addition of a STEPS power supply for his birthday, next up was a set of diamond buffers for no reason and finally it was finished off with a custom Walnut enclosure because I wanted it to be in a case that no one else had. This weekend wit…

I've been playing around with vinyl rigs again for a while now. Some of you will remember that I was going to build a custom plinth for a Mitsubishi LT-30 a while back, but ended up just overlaying the plinth with Wenge. Well with my greatest resource at hand (luvdunhill) I opted for a completely custom table a while back. I purchased most of the parts earlier, but am just now finding a little free time to build the plinth. I went back and forth on the design several times, and almost ended up using some soapstone slabs. But in the end I decided on wood. Specifically the core of the plinth will be alternating layers of 3/4" MDF and Baltic Birch plywood. 6 layers to …

I'm interested in getting a (relatively) inexpensive USB computer rig at the moment, so I'm looking for advice on what to pick. At the moment, I have three choices in mind, of which I'm considering two: 1) DAC/amp combo at http://www6.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?t=185569 Which seems to be a NOS TDA1543 DAC, maybe similar to the Monica II (?), plus a PINT, in one PCB & enclosure. 2) Alien DAC + Go-Vibe 5 With the Alien DAC being a simple USB PCM2702 DAC, and then the Go-Vibe 5 apparently being a simple LM6172 deal with a DC jack. 3) Total Bithead At the moment I think the others will be a better value. Since while I don't have any electronics sk…

I've been thinking about opening the earcups of the MS1i and dampening the back of the drivers like Grado does with it's higher end cans presumably to eliminate any resonance that might occur in the metal back that houses the magnet. The only thing is that I'm not to sure what material I should use. Does anybody here have any experience with doing anything like this? If not I'll probably just use a little bit of silicon gel.

I ran across a weird problem the other night when using my Dynalo (headamp V2 board). I have an amb e22 DC offset protection circuit on the output, and when I have a set of headphones plugged in (T50rp fostex) and the volume turned all the way down, the protect circuit activates (cycles). Once I turn the volume up a little it stops doing that and works normally. Before I dig into it to try to figure out why, I just thought I'd ask here to see if this might just be normal? EDIT: answered that. My work dynalo does not do this, and it also has an e22 on it. Same phones (not the same pair) as well.

Has anyone played with biasing capacitors that normally only see AC with a small amount of DC? I know some commercial speaker manufacturers have been doing this for a while (Vandersteen, Infinity, JBL, etc. comes to mind) usually using a battery and often accompanied by fancy marketing speak ("Charge-Coupled Linear Definition Dividing Network"). There is a lot of ink spilled on the subject, but what do you say?

That's right. A few upgrades and tweaks for the old gal. On the list will be opamps, wiring reroutes and upgrades, power supply changes. First up, I'm going to remove these JRC4735B opamps (assuming I have correctly identified them) and replace them with...dunno. After reading up a bit it appears that these are part of the problem with this player sounding so dark. I'll have to do some comparisons, but it seems like an OPA2134 could be a candidate, or an AD8610 (or 20). Guesses? I'll have to check the pinouts to be sure.

OK, here's the schematic for my crossovers, including the APOC protection circuit (at the bottom), which is powered by my amp, and is not battery powered: http://www.bwgroup-support.com/downloads/techmanuals/bw/802-TM.pdf Photos of the crossover appear here: http://www.head-case.org/forums/do-yourself/9007-b-w-802-series-80-repair-5.html#post404176 and here: http://www.head-case.org/forums/do-yourself/9007-b-w-802-series-80-repair-3.html#post402352 and here: http://www.head-case.org/forums/do-yourself/9007-b-w-802-series-80-repair-5.html#post404221 I can see which points to connect on the PC board to bypass the relay; that's no big deal. My questi…

I finally stopped dicking around with psud and actually dead bugged this psu I've been mulling over. It's alive, and no parts were killed. Glad we don't have a cat anymore. Loaded it down, and it was pretty close to what psud predicted. Not knowing what the regulation of the transformer was, I adjusted the setting in psud until it matched the output, and it scales properly. Added a small resistor up front to bring the output down a bit, and I think I'm done. No electrolytics, with a shared C-L-C, then it splits into two channels, each having an L-C-R-C string. The output power tap is at the L-C jct, the gain stage tap is at the end. Rectifier is a 5V4GA I had on han…

I have a pair of 2n5457/5458 JFETs on a small board as part of a bias scheme for a 12AX7. The circuit also has a 9v battery. I cannot get the voltage dialed down, so I checked the JFETs. The resistance from gate to source (and gate to drain) read the same in both directions: roughly 1k ohm. These are dead, aren't they?