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Dear all, I’m currently considering to up-dating my STAX-compatible HeadAmp with an extra-option of a variable Polarization Voltage . Reportedly, the SR-007 Mk2 may benefit from such a higher voltage Who has experience with such a feature ? Thanks & Regards Urs
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Daniel Donato at the Caverns in Pelham Tn on Saturday. https://archive.org/details/DanielDonato?query=date%3A2025-04-12*&tab=collection
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from friday: Drivin N Cryin' https://archive.org/details/DrivinNCryin?query=date:2023-10-06* From 10/1 Molly Tuttle https://archive.org/details/mt-20231001.4015gs https://archive.org/details/mt-20231001.kk-14 Phoebe Hunt, the opener: https://archive.org/details/phoebe-hunt-4015gs-mastered Spafford, 9/20: https://archive.org/details/Spafford?query=date:2023-09-20* Rossdafareye, the opener: https://archive.org/details/rossdafareye-knox-bijou-dpa-4015gs Billy Strings, 8/24: https://archive.org/details/billystrings2023-08-24.4017vl Cracker, 7/22 https://archive.org/details/Cracker?query=date:2023-07-22* Ryan Adams and the Cardinals, 6/5 https://archive.org/details/RA230605.4015gs
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$ python -m visa shell Welcome to the VISA shell. Type help or ? to list commands. (visa) list ( 0) GPIB0::16::INSTR ( 1) GPIB0::28::INSTR ( 2) GPIB0::1::INSTR ( 3) ASRL2::INSTR ( 4) ASRL1::INSTR (visa) open 0 GPIB0::16::INSTR has been opened. You can talk to the device using "write", "read" or "query. The default end of message is added to each message (open) query *IDN? Response: KEITHLEY INSTRUMENTS INC.,MODEL 2015,0788786,B09 /A02 (open) close The resource has been closed. (visa) open 2 GPIB0::1::INSTR has been opened. You can talk to the device using "write", "read" or "query. The default end of message is added to each message (open) query *IDN? Response: TEKTRONIX,TDS 3032C,0,CF:91.1CT FV:v4.25 TDS3GV:v1.00 TDS3FFT:v1.00 TDS3TRG:v1.00 (open) close The resource has been closed. (visa) Played around with PyVISA today...
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and now for something completely different part 3
Roger replied to kevin gilmore's topic in Do It Yourself
I have a query in regards to the CFA 2 balanced amp (4 boards build). Will this be suitable to drive low impedance loads around 23 ohms with good current? Thinking about using for a Dan Clark Audio planar. I appreciate any help. -
I was wondering if an amp designer/builder can explain why so many people have problems running the hev70. Most of the are imported from the EU and it seems to be all sorts of problems yet they work fine in the EU. Is there any possible explaination for it?
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There was too much to address in cutestory's query, but: Keeping (or getting) your knives sharp is a combination of metallurgy (alloy, heat treatment, etc.), edge geometry, and consistency. It's easy to wipe out a good factory edge with poor sharpening (I have done it) and harder to improve a poorly-executed edge by skillful re-profiling and sharpening. It's better to start with cheap knives. A harder steel will keep it's edge longer, but an overly-hard heat treatment will mean that it can also be more brittle. Each alloy of steel has an ideal hardness range, depending on your application. Softer steel will get dull more quickly but it may be tougher in abusive situations (e.g., camp work, chopping, swords/axes, etc.). Different sharpener grits for different jobs, just like in wood sanding. Coarse grit to remove lots of metal (unnecessary for most knives), medium grit for a less aggressive re-profiling or sharpening a completely dull knife, and fine to ultra-fine for edge maintenance or a finer, more polished edge. Some people prefer a slightly coarser edge for more biting cuts into tougher material like wood or rope (the microscopic teeth on the edge will be more aggressive) and others like a very smooth edge for sashimi cutting, for example. Some people like to use a leather strop to finish the edge on a knife or razor. Explained here: https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Understanding-Strops-W111.aspx Edge endurance can also depend on the bevel type and angle... having more steel at the edge will make it tougher, but a thinner edge will feel sharper and cut more easily through softer material. You can see in the list of edge geometries at the bottom that the V (flat grind) is the simplest to understand and to sharpen properly, which is why it is the most common. This popped up on YouTube... not a lot of "super-steels" in here: https://youtu.be/MKMG-FdCGtM
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For anyone still interested, the MSI came in yesterday. To Nate's point, I probably did overbuy. But my overall thought was to get something that will last me, as I keep my home PC around 7+ years on average. So I wanted to max-out the stock configuration (processor, RAM, SSD HD) within a reasonable budget, as access to the innards of laptops for future upgrades gets more difficult with each new model. Off-grid battery life is less of a consideration, as this will be pretty stationary in my home office & won't be taken on travels (an old Android tablet and/or my cellphone serve that purpose sufficiently). Legacy ports were important to keep things simple for older peripherals & hardwired network connectivity. Buying through Costco leverages the kickback I get at the end of the membership year, as well as their stellar customer service should anything go awry. Having the MSI go on-sale this month was the tipping point. I fired it up last night & applied the outstanding Windows OS updates. That took much longer than updating my wife's Macbook when she got it a few months back. Now to transfer my files & install applications. TL;DR - seems pretty good for basically a fast Windows PC. #fingerscrossed Thanks again all for your inputs to my query.
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blessingx, Would you share a bit more about your goals / preferences? Obviously you prefer a simple / uncomplicated style...feels a modern take on a military/avaiation watch from my limited experience. I see a round 40mm, that's a bit over 10mm tall, auto, black and white face with hour and minute markers, see through case back, leather and tang buckle, seconds hand but no date at roughly a $750-$1000 price point. Anything to add or correct? I have to say the Sinn is more to my aesthetic than the Flieger. They run a bit large for my wrist unfortunately as I find some of their styles interesting. Perhaps this Oris as an option. Links to Oris site, jomashop one model, and joma several options... https://www.oris.ch/en/watch/oris-55th-reno-air-races-limited-edition/01-752-7698-4194-set-ts https://www.jomashop.com/oris-watch-751-7697-4164bkfs.html https://www.jomashop.com/jomasearch?query=oris big crown pro pilot# HS
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Although the OP does look better with its bracelet, I’ve decided not to have it put back on, instead I’ve enquired about an alligator strap from that place in the UK, however my query isn’t about it in black, it’s what this place calls storm grey which looks a similar colour to the OP Rhodium dial. Getting this strap makes it so the AK end links won’t become obsolete, which I’m happy about. On that strap is a deployment buckle, which is what I’m going for, but in satin finish.
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My query re alternatives to Stax amps is on the amplifier section if you can enlighten me please, I have on that question listed 3 Stax amps am considering but am aware that there are alternatives just dont know what they are
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This is a bit of topic, as it’s in regards to my BH, but maybe still relevant for KGSSHV builders, and I didn’t want to make a separate thread for my query. My BHs transformers are housed in a separate plastic box. The psu and amp boards reside in separate metal chassis. Earth ground is connected to the amp/psu chassis via its umbilical from the transformer box. I’m upgrading and building a metal box for transformers, so I will need to connect earth ground in this box. Here’s my query... Do I need to also connect earth ground to the amp/psu chassis as well, via the umbilical? I know for a Beta22 2 box build the amp box is not connected the ground earth, but this being high voltage I want to be 100% sure.
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My previous query(ies) may have gotten buried. Given the somewhat religious fervor this topic seems to generate on other forums (without much technical justification for the most part; just assumption), I would like to know people's thoughts on this. My take from other reading seems to be if not shunt then you are a) a dumb ass, or b ) you just don't appreciate the best. I did read a critique/analysis on topic that discussed shunts presenting a more uniform impedance to the load, but then went into a discussion of a push-pull relationship via a shunt, versus a push only relationship with a linear reg. My specific interest is in a Salas shunt vs. GRLV plus for a phono stage, but a general discussion is more than welcome, if for nothing more than my education
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Very nice work bjarnetv. Just to add on to what Craig has correctly pointed out in regards to pin 1, and your query if it’s something that may be audible. In my opinion a correctly implemented (as per rane notes) balanced line is all about “potential”, in other words one scenario may differ greatly from another, influencing environmental factors are all very different. The only way to test whether a certain environment has audible RFI, would be to dissconect pin 1 from the chassis and listen for hum, in a quiet rural country area you may not hear any as opposed to a city area where RFI is obviously greater. And then there’s house hold wiring, appliances and fluorescent lights that all add to that “potential”.
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Well would you look at that. Huh. I should say, if I had anything with a built-in tuner, I'd definitely sell it to you for cheap, but alas, I don't. Besides, I suck at shipping stuff. Which one? I'll take a look-see. EDIT, never mind, found it, try these: Used: http://www.guitarcenter.com/Used/Yamaha/A1R-Acoustic-Electric-Guitar-113921793.gc http://www.guitarcenter.com/Used/Martin/Vintage-1955-D28-Acoustic-Guitar.gc http://www.guitarcenter.com/Used/Takamine/GB7C-Garth-Brooks-Seven-Signature-Acoustic-Electric-Guitar.gc New: http://www.guitarcenter.com/Ibanez/Talman-TCY10-Acoustic-Electric-Guitar.gc (I have a soft spot for Ibanez Talman series of guitars, but they're not for everyone, definitely a good choice trying before buying.) I have a query to my friend who indirectly gave Jeff some good guitar-buying advice, I'll see what he recommends. ...and then buy this one: http://www.guitarcenter.com/Used/Daisy-Rock/Retro-H-Hollow-Body-Electric-Guitar-113659184.gc
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Well, that's an altogether different question. Both Birgir and Dr. Gilmore have documented the shortcomings of the eXstatA design - the solid state version measures worse than the Stax SRM-323, and the hybrid version takes 6S4A tubes, which are excellent output devices, and uses them in an intermediate stage, seemingly for no other reason than to say there are tubes in the design. Let me just add that the output "current source" is based on a circuit topology that Walt Jung, a well known solid state engineer, gave as an example of what NOT to use (AudioXpress issue 4, 2007), because it just isn't a very good current source.. On the other hand, Dr. Gilmore posted in the HEV70 query thread in the amplification section of Head-Case on Mrach 7, 2006, that, "I have 2 of them. Never had a problem with either. They sound like crap but that is a different issue." And in his original article on his all triode direct drive tube amp design he said of the HV60/HEV70, "The solid state drive amplifier is horrible. Headphones themselves are excellent." You might be better off selling the hybrid eXstatA and putting the funds towards a better amp, either a used Stax or one of Dr. Gilmore's designs. If you can buy or build a Stax to Sennheiser cable adapter you can use it to drive your Sennheiser stat phones as well (or, use the SRD-7 pro with a cable adapter for the same purpose).
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The query I made wasn't for my benefit because as I've said, I've no intentions of using my 009's or 003's with any Woo amps, but I'll add that I got my 009's [ from PriceJapan ] in 2011 and they've been driven by the BHSE, KGSSHV, SRM-007t, 717, and I've not had one problem with the SQ.
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Jeff, your query is quite broad. Where do your priorities lie (weight vs. comfort vs. fun toys), what sort of places and conditions are you looking to visit? It all can make a huge difference in gear. I have similar big pack, an Arcteryx Altra 75, but I only use it for winter hikes requiring a lot of gear, or times when I take a full DSLR rig with tripod and full camping gear. I did a 7 day trip in thr Sierra earlier this year out of a 50L REI Flash, which weighs 3.5lb less. And I love my REI Stoke 29 for sub 20lb loads.
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I saw that you posted "Crybaby Wah-wah pedal" in response to Jeff's query, but I didn't watch the video so didn't realize it was an HOUR LONG DOCUMENTARY. So yeah, mah bad. And no, I didn't get one, I just thought it was a cool video that would appeal to guitarists.
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I think you've answered my query. Romantic and warm sounding is a good way of describing what kind of signature I'm definitely looking for. I've heard of Kenwood for sure, but not the other brands you mention, so I guess that's the brand for me to vintage for. Thank you.
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Using the link Dr. Wood provided... http://www.woodcraft.com/search2/search.aspx?query=teak Maybe the Watco? I've never used this one, but did use a Watco linseed oil and liked it. Someone that is an expert should pipe up...
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The Knuckledragger 3rd Memorial Slow Forum Post
Dusty Chalk replied to Knuckledragger's topic in Off Topic
I wanted to add this picture because I thought it was funny that in response to the query, "See anything you like?", he clicked the 'like' button. To wit: 'Yes.' -
The Official Head-Case Photography Thread.
The Expanding Man replied to Knuckledragger's topic in Miscellaneous
Thanks to everyone who responded to my query a couple of pages back about the merits of selling my DX outfit to go micro 4/3. I took the Olympus EP-3 and a panasonic 14-140 zoom out to the zoo yesterday. This was the very first shot I took: -
The Official Head-Case Photography Thread.
nikongod replied to Knuckledragger's topic in Miscellaneous
The F2.8 version will also be nice if (when) little monkey starts doing school plays and shit. Now someone needs to answer my flash query. Edited: Sunpak 411 may be the ticket. Need to check whether it will blow up my GRD IV though. -
There's also a 128GB iPad I didn't know existed. Dinny, get the 15" rMBP if you don't want to use it on a plane or on your own lap for most of the time. For iPad-like use I'd get the 13" or a MBA. Please let us know how ends up the memory issue on your iMac, I'm concerned it's troublesome to boost the memory up to 32GB. No comments about my memory query?
