Pars Posted July 13, 2008 Report Share Posted July 13, 2008 Damnit, I really have to learn to solder, at least to a point where I can make my own cables. Not much to soldering... just heat both parts up and apply solder. When you do it right, the solder will just kinda suck into the joint and you can see it. I think alot of people make it into a bigger deal than it really is. Just do it yeah, it was definitely weird. the high temp setting, which gets pretty damn hot, shrunk it about 25%. the candle got it the rest of the way to half size, but it took a while. That is some weird heatshrink! I have one of the crappy Harbor Freight heatguns, and like Nate, I would be afraid to use the high setting on it. I actually unsoldered a connection to a pot or something on the low setting. I'd bitch to Markertek about that shrink. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ingwe Posted July 13, 2008 Report Share Posted July 13, 2008 Here's my first stab at an Apogee Duet line-out cable. Plain old canare star-quad, neutrik rca's and radioshack D-15HD. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grawk Posted July 13, 2008 Report Share Posted July 13, 2008 Did you grind down the shell so it'll lock up tight? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ingwe Posted July 13, 2008 Report Share Posted July 13, 2008 (edited) ^^^ I did; but I think a bit too much. It could be tighter: there's some fore-aft play in the connector. Luckily hoods are cheap. Edited July 13, 2008 by ingwe OCD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n_maher Posted July 13, 2008 Report Share Posted July 13, 2008 Nice! I prefer the other shell that Radio Shack offers, it seems to work better. Specifically it has better screw projection causing fewer problems with attachment to the duet. If you have any issues just remove the washers from the back side of the connection, they aren't strictly necessary. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ingwe Posted July 13, 2008 Report Share Posted July 13, 2008 (edited) Nice! I prefer the other shell that Radio Shack offers, it seems to work better. Specifically it has better screw projection causing fewer problems with attachment to the duet. If you have any issues just remove the washers from the back side of the connection, they aren't strictly necessary. Thanks! Coming from you greatly appreciated. What other wire would you recommend other than Canare star-quad? That is if I'm not asking for a trade secret. Edit: The only other RS hood I saw was plastic. Is that the one? Edited July 13, 2008 by ingwe OCD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n_maher Posted July 13, 2008 Report Share Posted July 13, 2008 Hmmm, I thought that the one you were showing was the metalized plastic one. The one that I'm talking about is this one: That's part #276-1508 And not to worry, no trade secrets here. I prefer Mogami's mic cable to the canare and if you want to go more exotic than that you could try some HGA solid silver or Neotech UPOCC copper. I've done duet cables with both. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ingwe Posted July 13, 2008 Report Share Posted July 13, 2008 Hmmm, I thought that the one you were showing was the metalized plastic one. The one that I'm talking about is this one: That's part #276-1508 And not to worry, no trade secrets here. I prefer Mogami's mic cable to the canare and if you want to go more exotic than that you could try some HGA solid silver or Neotech UPOCC copper. I've done duet cables with both. Okay, my "shielded" hood is metalized plastic. That explains a great deal. :/ I got the Duet primarily to transfer my vinyl. Looks like much experimentation is in order before I come up with a work-flow with the right materials. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvdunhill Posted July 15, 2008 Report Share Posted July 15, 2008 while no pics yet, I finished up my first Senn cable using the new Cardas connectors. It is an 8 conductor cable, with 3 different gauges of wire. I was wondering, do you use the larger pin on the connector for ground, or signal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n_maher Posted July 15, 2008 Report Share Posted July 15, 2008 large pin = ground Do you not have a stock cable to ohm out? I always have to double check but since I was working on one tonight it's fresh in the memory. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvdunhill Posted July 15, 2008 Report Share Posted July 15, 2008 large pin = ground Do you not have a stock cable to ohm out? I always have to double check but since I was working on one tonight it's fresh in the memory. well.. I have a stock cable that I converted to balanced... anyways, a fine looking cable... however, I do have to say that the lower end Furutech stuff is crap in my opinion (XLR chassis connectors, IEC inlet, 0.25" TRS plug, etc.). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ingwe Posted July 15, 2008 Report Share Posted July 15, 2008 I finished up my first Senn cable using the new Cardas connectors. It is an 8 conductor cable, with 3 different ga How were the new connectors to work with? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvdunhill Posted July 15, 2008 Report Share Posted July 15, 2008 How were the new connectors to work with? no bad at all, considering I had so much cable to work with (four conductors in each side). On another cable related issue, I have a Neutrik cable that I've made a mistake and am trying to use too thick of a cable. The bottom part barely fits and then I can hook up the section that takes the wire and then place the third part over this section and screw it onto the first... problem is, I cannot get the strain relief section that usually goes on second to fit. As a result it's not working so well..... any way to rig this up somehow, or is this not even coherent... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pars Posted July 15, 2008 Report Share Posted July 15, 2008 sometimes their (Neutrik) strain reliefs have a piece or section you can remove for thicker cable. Its usually not clear at all in their instructions... what particular connector? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvdunhill Posted July 15, 2008 Report Share Posted July 15, 2008 sometimes their (Neutrik) strain reliefs have a piece or section you can remove for thicker cable. Its usually not clear at all in their instructions... what particular connector? PowerCon... Interesting idea... I'll look in the morning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spritzer Posted July 15, 2008 Report Share Posted July 15, 2008 PowerCon... Interesting idea... I'll look in the morning. You can try to remove one of the plastic "fins" in the strain relief and see if it helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n_maher Posted July 15, 2008 Report Share Posted July 15, 2008 You can try to remove one of the plastic "fins" in the strain relief and see if it helps. I generally have to trim all 4 fins when using larger diameter wire. Seems to work fine provided you don't cut it all too short since the strain relief sometimes serves a dual purpose of holding the connector in the right position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spritzer Posted July 15, 2008 Report Share Posted July 15, 2008 I generally have to trim all 4 fins when using larger diameter wire. Seems to work fine provided you don't cut it all too short since the strain relief sometimes serves a dual purpose of holding the connector in the right position. It's a similar deal with the Fischer connectors so ease up on the cutting Marc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
luvdunhill Posted July 15, 2008 Report Share Posted July 15, 2008 I generally have to trim all 4 fins when using larger diameter wire. Seems to work fine provided you don't cut it all too short since the strain relief sometimes serves a dual purpose of holding the connector in the right position. exactly what it does in this case... ok, I'll give it a go. Thanks guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n_maher Posted July 20, 2008 Report Share Posted July 20, 2008 The Devil's Duet Cable Wire is 24ga UPOCC, connectors are Vampire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dusty Chalk Posted July 20, 2008 Report Share Posted July 20, 2008 Hott. :drool:...er, I mean... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n_maher Posted July 20, 2008 Report Share Posted July 20, 2008 Thanks Jacob. It was partly born out of laziness but with the different lengths and the size of the cable it would have been very hard to sleeve the cable well. In other UPOCC news I finished a pair of rather expensive speaker cables this weekend too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n_maher Posted July 20, 2008 Report Share Posted July 20, 2008 The wire is $15/ft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
n_maher Posted July 20, 2008 Report Share Posted July 20, 2008 It's Neotech NES3004 - 8 strands of their purest copper wrapped in a very attractive blue shell. I should be working on a pair of cables soon using some Furutech speaker wire which isn't quite as pretty but is a much more reasonable step up from the basic Canare/Belden type wire in terms of cost. Still waiting on a few parts for those so I'm not sure when I'll get back to them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Salt Peanuts Posted July 20, 2008 Report Share Posted July 20, 2008 hmm, probably more than i want to spend at the moment, since i'm happy with my Blue Jeans Belden. what is the model number and brand? it just looks so nice... I'm pretty sure it's Neotech NES-3004, but I'm guessing from Nate's earlier post and cable color. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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