Headphone Amplification

The Fidelix Staccato There seems to be a Japanese maker of high-end audio equipment that makes his own Stax driver. Looks very cleanly-made, but I don't know how much of this is a unique build versus knowledge already known in the Western Stax community. I'm particularly interested in hearing the DIY group's thoughts on the simplified schematic he's posted. Is this anything unique/interesting? Or just a rehash of existing designs?

Dear All - What tube improvements can be made to Stax007tA over the stock tubes? Are matched pairs available or is there any change needed to be done to the board? Also any recommendation on exernal PSU to improve SQ? Thank you

Dear All Due to sudden voltage spike last night - my stax vaccume tube amp srm007TA diode burnt out. Can you guide through the process to fix this issue? I have attached the images below for reference. Hopefully the PCB seems to be intact. But i am not a expert and any advise is highly appreciated Thank you

Can you help me with schematic of Stax SRM007tA amplifer please ? (100 V Japan version)

Hello, looking for Info where to find a new trafo for my KGST headphone Projekt. Thanks for Info Bart

Hello all, I have this unit, but it stopped working so I opened it up. It seems that in right channel are shorted mosfets on output stage. But LEDs are not lit on both channel so I need to check it more. I started drawing schematic from the board. Since this is only one sided pcb, it was easy. But there is one thing I don't really understand. It is the cascode pair of 2SA1699. It should be that emitter is connected to the drain of the 2sj109 and output is at collector. But there it is connected differently. Or there is something I don't see. If we look on the board, there is drain of the 2sj109 and it is connected to the base of 2sa1699 according to …

Hi! i would like to share my work with you. I made an dynalo amp powered by grlv power supply and a pcm1794a/cm6631a dac. Everything is totaly made by me. I also designed the pcb nd ordered it from JLCPCB. Amp offset voltage stays at max +-1mV and it is totally silent. Case is DOUK AUDIO. pictures: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1a6cbGFpN6s5EadR8DA_lb21ZFwOwzK4R?usp=sharing

Hi all, I’ve lurked here for a while but am active in the other regular forum. Apologies for the cold post here, but after a trade and drunken bidding on Yahoo Auctions I find myself with both an SRM-T1S and a 006t (both have pro and normal bias outputs). I would like to get the CCS mod done to one of them, likely the 006 which I would then keep. There’s likely no way in hell I would trust myself to do the mod, though I have JimL’s article. So my post is to find someone who could upgrade my 006t with the CCS mod and whatever other upgrades and updates (and voltage change) you feel would be worthwhile. I’m using it to drive (primarily) an L300LE and a NB La…

Hi, Folks! Aren't there a time to try something new? What a headamp would you like to try? Of course, A-Class, of course "No Miller capacitance", of course "Balanced". Do we need new beasts? Aren't there a time to brainstorm or public dispute for the new designs?

Hi, Newbie here. I bought a pair of Stax SR-404 Signature and want to build an energizer/amp myself. I'm not a big tube fan, although I can see the value in using them. Instead, I'd like to build a fairly compact solid-state version. Does anyone have any links or references to interesting designs? Thx D.

Hello all! I'm looking for a decent but cheapish DAC/Amp that has significant negative gain, and was wondering if anyone knew of anything? I'm using it to connect to my digital piano software, with which I use a pair of Etymotic 4XRs. At standard levels and 0dB gain I usually need to attenuate by at least 24dB before I can even get close to half volume with most pots. I'll add that I'm also using it at relatively low output levels because of my messed up ears, so it really would be nice to have some meaningful volume range without having to use massive digital attenuation. Also, using that kind of digital attenuation still leaves the amp itself at a much higher outpu…

Hi, been lurking for a while but finally signed up! Quick background on my gear: I'm in the Stax ecosystem with an L700(Mk1), SR-3, and an SRM-003. I also have a D10 and T1S, the latter of which was on a shelf unused in the original box for 25 years or so and last year I bought it. I'm still planning to recap it and upgrade it with the constant current mod, but that's to come soon. In the meanwhile, I came across a curiosity online, a homemade normal-bias tube amp. No real info provided, but it was a reasonable price so I took the shot in the dark, and I don't have the electronics knowledge to grok what I'm looking at. Can anyone more educated help me?

Hi all, I was advised by some head-fi members to inquire about the technical aspects of this amplifier here. Do let me know if I'm failing to follow any rules; just trying to avoid any catastrophes! Here are the photos of my amp: https://imgur.com/a/sshHA7B The amp is an 8FQ7 SRM-007t rated for 100v 50/60hz outlets. I have a step down transformer (PowerBright) rated for 120v to 100v, and my outlets are, I believe, 120v at 60hz (American). The transformer works fine with my Japanese SRM-252S, but the fuse has blown 3 times now when turning on the 007t (always the 2nd time it turns on; the first time seems to be working). I've tried debugging this for a bit, hence…

Just picked up a DIY Kludge headphone amp. The base circuit came from a Vacuum Tube Valley #11 on page 24 and 25. Here is the link: https://web.archive.org/web/20131122141643if_/http://www.jumpjet.info/Pioneering-Wireless/eMagazines/VTV/VTV11.pdf A few minor mods were made to improve the performance, such as additional power supply filtering, HEXFREDS, DCed all filaments, etc. This amp sounds great. Has NOS Tung-Sol 6080 and 6SL7 tubes. Has plenty of power. Easily drives Abyss 1266 phi.

Has anyone ever tried to measure whether tube-rolling the blue-hawaii or GG for that matter, actually makes an objective difference?.

Hi y'all, Got my entry ticket into the Stax world in the beginning of 2018 with a Lambda Signature SR-407 earspeakers / SRM-T1S energizer combo. Got them from a Japanese seller and therefore I'm having to use a 100V step-down transformer for Japanese electronics here in Brazil (power outlets at home are 127V, 60 Hz). Only recently got the nerve to open the energizer to remove some dust and check the components (a bit scared of touching those big-ass 100 uF caps, but an anti-static brush and a lens cleaning blower sort of did the job). As far as I could see, all components seem original: The tubes are Gold Aero 6CG7's, Stax Signature selection. I understa…

Hello I am pretty new here and am seeing some really impressive knowledge on this site. I looked but did not find anything on changing the voltage from 100 to 117 on an RSM717. I saw a post on the 727 which someone also said was similar. It looked like on that, the leads were cut from the transformer and that did not look like fun to do. I can measure resistance, voltage, etc, but don't have the expertise to do what some of you guys can do. If there are step by step instruction (esp with photos) I can do it. I don't see a lot of posts that are dumbed down to that level though. I also was wondering if there are any mods to be made on a 727 that would make it a b…

In 2011 I bought everything needed for a D.I.Y. T2 ( except the chassis and the 4-gang attenuator or pot for level control) and had every intention of building the thing... but then I became disabled and unable to build it.... though I still fantasized that I would build it- somehow. Well, that clearly is never going to happen, and due to the situation I find myself in, I need to get the money back that I spent on these parts. I offered them to Birgir (Spritzer) but he doesn't need them; he suggested I offer them here. I have attached my T2 Bill of Materials with part numbers, prices and etc. Have a look and if you are interested, make an offer. FYI I will on…

This is a long time coming, but with the corona virus, I've finally got time to do this. This is my review of the KGSSHV Carbon I had commissioned from @joehpj (thanks!). I've purchased a pair of Stax L300 Limited to replace the Stax Lambda Pros I had been using for some 25 years before Hurricane Harvey flooded my house and destroyed my old headphones. I've upgraded the pads on the L300 with L700 pads--these make a noticeable difference for me, as the thicker pads allow me to get a decent seal even when I wear headphones. I've been driving them with a Stax SRM-252s, and it has become apparent to me that the amp was the weak link in the chain. After seeing photos …

I have a stand alone Koss E90 box and a Stax SRD-7 transformer box. I am just curious which one every one prefers and why? iFi has their eESL trans former box, which is as about as universal as one can get, and there is of course used Stax transformer boxes. There is also a plethora of electrostatic amps, stax, Woo, Mjolner and so on. Just curious as to what every one likes for their Stax or other electrostatic headphones.

Info about an upcoming electrostatic amp from Bottlehead. https://forum.bottlehead.com/index.php?topic=12157.0

Made an impulse buy for this intriguing 300B SET, which is turning out to have great resolution and bass definition for a 300B SET, through speakers, headphone amp, AND driving electrostats via Stax transformer! https://www.stereophile.com/content/gramophone-dreams-27-elekit-tu-8600r-amplifier-kit 1126191526a by drjlo2, on Flickr

Two new amps have just been announced: https://stax.co.jp/products/srm-700t/ https://stax.co.jp/products/srm-700s/

I have a 007tA that lost the -350V. Looks like the 150ohm filter resistor between the two HV caps is open. There also seem to be something loading the bias voltage. The voltage before the 4.7M resistor in series with the output socket measure 300V after the resistor but 400V before the resistor with nothing connected. Searching thru the forum seems like there is a 007t schematic available somewhere but all the links in previous posts are no longer valid. It would be most helpful if a schematic is available. Would like to find out what causes the 150ohm resistor to open before replacing it. thanks.

Greetings since I am new to stax world, my current set up is 007Mk2 --- 007TII---chord hugo2 I wonder if buying a good power cable would be beneficial than the cheap one I am using now What is the best price/ performance power cable to buy that will not cause a big dent in the wallet to offer a noticeable sound improvement, and could you please explain what buying a power could would be a benefit for