Do It Yourself

Group buy from PCBNet (same as Carbon and Circlotron Group Buy) for boards > 40. State your interest here A table and a modular graphic for easier overview of the various Golden Reference PSU boards and their function: The color scheme is the same used in the modular picture below. Options, each representing a full PSU everything needed for an amp (in the spreadsheet one can choose either): Option 1: Contains HV+/-, LV+/- and PRO BIAS. Option 2: As Option 1, but “Split” into two separate boards, making mounting more versatile. (Skinny and FAT contains the same, but Skinny is rectangular shape wheres FAT is sqarish) Option 3: Separ…

"Description (Gerbers) copper/pcb thicknes": Everything is one channel, and two will be needed for stereo. As for the KGSShv PSU, only the Single Right Skinny is offered: containing one High Voltage rail and a BIAS supply. Those who needs a full supply will need two of those + the Golden Reference Low Voltage. Überamp (Uber1 + Uber2) 4oz/2mm Unbal2bal (Uber3) 3oz/1.6mm Golden Reference Low Voltage (GoldenReference6) 3oz/1.6mm Transconductance Amp (CurrentSourceAmp2) 1.6mm/3oz KGSShv PSU (kgsshvpssicfetsinglenewright), 1.6mm/3oz KGSShv Carbon Amp (Carbonv6), 1.6mm/3oz Grounded Grid (.........) , 1.6mm/3oz (as requested by JoeHpj …

I've got the permission from Dr Gilmore for a second run of boards, so let's do it again. Linky to the spreadsheet: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/ccc?key=0AoNVeoQi85GgdFVrMmtReVpWNVBsQUo2Sl9iSkItM2c#gid=0 Please take a look at the notes before putting your needed quantity. If you want something extra (like a single PSU or amp), just put a note under Extra Requirement column. The Megatron is not fully-tested so if you really want to try it, do it at your own risk. Silkscreens for the boards: + Megatron: http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5489/9229564952_a344b73826_b.jpg + KGSSHV onboard: http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5340/9224679066_7e0d75ce72_b.jp…

^ the big round one 30mm diameter x 36mm length with M8 thread I'm going to be ordering these but there is a huge min quantity. Maybe there is interest in a group buy? Likely, $1/piece is enough to cover the cost + share of shipping charges from China, and also some hex nuts. If there is interest the minimum would probably be about 16 pieces or shipping would get too crazy for just a couple.

Just a head's up: Fry's has the Hakko 936 in their weekend advert (at least in the Atlanta area) for $50.00. (Can someone please change the title to Hakko 936. Thanks)

Standalone HDCD decoder? digital in and out, nothing fancy. PMD100 chip inside. Any thoughts? Maybe even an upsampler too as another function...

I've decided to create a new division of HeadAmp dedicated to offering DIY parts (both in-house made as well as reselling such as transistors). It's just less stressful and overall more enjoyable dealing with DIYers (of course, this is just in addition to selling the HeadAmp made amps/DACs) I'll have to come up with a list of items. So this is a "Wanted" thread. Current items: - Custom machined Teflon Stax Jacks (pro or normal bias)

Now this is my first time on this forum so hi everyone! Right so the main business is that I've always stuck with Skullcandy for comfort and style, but i always get the same problem over and over again(no matter what skullcandies they are!) and that is the cable goes dodgy up in the speaker can. this happened with 2 pairs of skullcrushers i bought and because i live in the UK their warranty doesn't extend to over here. bottom line is , I've soldered the cables back down in the can but the sound still cuts off regularly, is there a smarter way to reconnect the cables inside? or is it worth completely replacing the cables? only problem being is that the subwoofer is c…

For fun and experience (and because the KSC75 cable is too short), I would like to recable the KSC75 in my Frankenstein HD580/KSC75. I've seen Mogami and Canare minis recommended. I was looking at Mogami W2799 and W2893 since people claim Mogami is more flexible than Canare. Is one of these better than the other for flexibility? Anything else I should consider.

Who know headphones that van been transfered to 3M Peltor Optime 105 H10A/III H540A earmuff, without soldering or using soldering glue. To create ultimate sound isolating headphones. Noticed that Urban Ears Plattan version 1 can been used for this. But i search for another headphone that can been used, without removing wires from drivers.

Toob n00b alert!! Is it detrimental in any significant way to run heaters at 12 and 6V instead of 12.6 and 6.3V? I'm running a 12V 3.75A regulated supply from an old monitor and it works and sounds fine but wanted to know if there was anything I need to be aware of doing this.

Looks like Heath kit will be coming back to business. Source Has anybody played around with heathkit's stuff back in the day?

Hey everyone, To make a long story short, some damage occurred to a b22 that I sold internationally during shipping. I know absolutely nothing about fixing it up, but from the pics he sent me I'm guessing it should be a relatively easy fix. Is there anyone with experience with b22s(it's a 2channel board) in the area of quincy MA (or anyone in general) who would be able to help him fix it (either in person or by talking him through it?). I would be grateful for the help, as the situation is starting to turn sour. Thanks for reading.

First, sincere thanks to everyone who contributed in the forum.I cannot start the project without resources from here. Recently I have finished my KGBH build but it isn't working.The observable problems are the two LEDs connecting 2sa1968 and the one connecting 2sc3675 do not light up as well as those 1968s not heating.Curiously, the amp works for a second every time after i turn the power off,right after the extinguish of the leds connecting the + and - 15v supply. The PSU unit is measured of giving the right voltage. I once thought of giving up the project but before that I try my luck to see anyone who once encounter the same problem or know anything about it. Th…

Anyone want to help this guy out? I'll send him here as well.

Hello, I have a Cavalli CTH amp that I built about 8-9 years ago. During that time I tinkered with it and had to rebuild parts of it once or twice, and then again rewired it and installed a new volume pot. Long story short, I burned out the input ground (IG) connection on the board. I was able to get it to connect to some degree, or so I though, but recently when trying to bring it back to life it came off again. I wanted to ask advice on how I might go about repairing this. The IG seems isolated from rest of the board, so am wondering if I can just install a isolated nylon spacer on the chassis and put a metal screw on it, run IG wire to that. IG currently is connec…

My b22 has felt feet and is in dire need of something, anything better that will provide some lift. Also what version of loctite is safe to use on nuts, bolts, screws, pots inside the amp? Things were pretty loose when I got it and have been tightened but I'd like it to be a one time thing

They used to do it for classrooms, and I have a similar program for 16 listeners. I'm on a small budget and can't afford a headphone amplifier. I want to use an old stereo amplifier of about 5-10 or 20 watts (which is really two amps in one box) on a TV output source. A switch on the panel will unify the stereo to mono left amp, and right amp. I have a Telex model 753 mono passive headphone splitter with 8 each 1/4" mono inputs, for one channel, and parts to make an identical splitter for the other channel. (there's not even so much as a resistor in the box, just wire and phone plugs) Now, with two splitters on Left and Right speaker output channels, I plug in up to 1…

I'm sorry if this isn't exactly the forum for this, but I think my amp is probably REALLY similar to a headphone amp, and I trust Hi-Fi heads more than musicians... I have a 35 year old Alembic F2-B stereo pre-amp for instruments. I play my bass guitar through it, and nothing else sounds as good to me to this day. It is based on the input section of a Fender Showman Guitar Amp. The last few years I've noticed the sound seems to have progressively dulled and lost it's life. The unit also has a little hum, and is pretty noisy. I was wondering if anyone could take a look at a picture or schematic (I have both) and suggest the items I can replace which will restore…

My HD-600 is one of my workhorses and I love them. Lately I have been having trouble with the right channel going in and out. I think it might be a bad contact with the wire but I am not sure. Any suggestions or anyone willing to take a look at them for me?

Hey I've got a seduction phono preamp that's developed a problem. I get a low level: thu, thuk, thuk, thuk sound out of both channels. it's not bad with the stock tubes, but with a pair of amperex bugle boys it interferes with the music. It's a fast rhythmic pulsing that is channel independant (shows up in both). I've tried replacing the caps in the PS and the heater PS since someone on the Bottlehead forum suggested it might be "motorboating" but that didn't work. All voltages check out on the amp except pins 1 and 6 on each tube. Both should measure 70V, but one measures 73 on one tube and the other tube it's 67. Any help would be appreciated. Oh yes, …

Hey everyone, I am in the process of developing a headphone for the Brazilian market, and thought I could use some help of the many knowledgeable people here, especially regarding the acoustics. Some background info on it: it's not going to be a high-end headphone, but one that has style, nicer choice of materials and decent sound quality, compatible with the $150-200 price that we hope to sell it for when it's done. I think something like an M50 but more stylish and with better materials would be a good analogy for what we're trying to achieve. I'm not sure it's possible, but that's our goal. The problem is that we're just a group of 4 people, with no enginee…

Hello! I am building a set of DIY headphones in a headphone shell that has a 50mm mount. I could also add an adapter to accommodate a 40mm driver. I am looking for a nice driver for this shell. I tried two different drivers from Aliexpress and neither were very good. Any suggestions?

the stock cable on my sennheiser HE-60's is starting to fail (intermittent right channel) normally I recable all my headphones with mogami 2534 but I am worried about sending 600V down that cable... so I am wondering what kind of cable would be appropriate? or would the 2534 probably be ok?

Does anybody here have any experience with hot air rework station soldering? Anything to look for or avoid? And, how does this compare to flood and suck or toaster oven soldering? I was looking at this one as being in my price range and having generally good Amazon reviews.