Leaderboard

The new shop is mostly wired and the big tools all have dedicated 240V circuits. I cleaned up and tried moving some things around to see how the space will work. It feels spacious compared to where we have been working in a chopped up basement space. This is approximately where the table saw, bandsaw and jointer/planer will reside, although the bandsaw will come away from the wall and may change orientation when in use. The blades for the Hammer bandsaw are still being made so it is going to sit in a corner for now, and the garbage rugs used by the tenant for years are now in place for some comfort and grease spot coverage. It's taking a while to get set up but I'm trying to be patient and get things done right. I'm going to enjoy working in this space and it will be much easier when Milo and Otis are in the shop together.

No time to finish the armboard, because it was the time for truth! Will it fit and can I get the arm aligned. Well I think so! The SME setup process is pretty complicated - lots of tiny judgments and adjustments needed but the engineering behind the arm is just wonderful! I am almost at the top of the height adjustment - so probably needed a little more height on the board. I would say it has about 1/8” left of adjustment room - I guess useful for those future 300g releases?

Looking like it’s coming together nicely, Al. M&O will be making wood chips before you know it. I’m still ping ponging away.

Peter Bernstein, Brad Mehldau, Christian McBride & Gregory Hutchinson - Signs Live! Available at many streaming services

Pic from FB friend.....

Better picture.

Sunday morning a cappella metal? sure... (well a cappella with drums)

Back to 1993 I'm not a big fan of this kind of music, but my stepbrother made me like this album when we were still in high school.

I have ... a lot of appreciation ... for Sharon Van Etten.

This post contains a number of references to specific HCers. Just two blokes out for a stroll. Nothing to see here. The largest pizza one can order in the US. Split Apple Rock, New Zealand. Bogans defending their territory from a drone attack, 2020, colorized. Never have I felt so personally attacked. Douglas DC-3 of BOAC at Gibraltar, silhouetted by searchlights on the Rock, WWII. Australian soldiers of the 4th Division field artillery brigade on duckboard track in Château Wood, near Hooge, Ypres salient, 29 October 1917.

With the green beret

Shit, Knucks, that sucks. Options: Cheap(ish) https://www.ebay.com/itm/402883362699?hash=item5dcdb83f8b:g:fQQAAOSwRqtgsruP NOS https://www.ebay.com/itm/334033481088?hash=item4dc5f26d80:g:e5UAAOSwCVlguoUp

Good opportunity if you have never tried it ...

I know about fakes and try to buy all silicon from trusted sources - forum members, bdent etc. Anyway, thanks for the advice! I also would test all the transistors before use them, and not only test for breakdown voltage, but build curves, measure capacitance, etc. I would not allow my NOS transistors to burn 🙂 Why don't I build modern version of T2? Because I already have many rare components and I believe that I could find necessary components or replace them with something similar.

yep and make sure the silicon you have got is not fake.... This is why I chose to build a modern T2 - which I can highly recommend, I have not compared it to an original T2 but at least I know I all the transistors are from mouser with the exception of the 2sk216 and 2SJ79 which I sourced from a reliable forum member. I know members who have built an original T2 had issues and lost hundreds of $ in burnt NOS transistors... for me the modern T2 makes more economic and practical sense.

The pilot that died on the vine.

Looking great Al. Plenty of spots for the Robotron 2084 machine.

Sorry, don't know where to find either, but in general, for any of the designs using old silicon, it is a good idea to source all of the silicon, or at least make sure you can, before investing in PCBs, etc.

Nice work Al! You almost could fit a ping-pong table in all that empty space!

Catching up on the original.

You might start a line of headphone hangers on such design: things like "to Dr Molinaro who gave my wife those wonderful appendages" and things like that. There's some business there if someone doesn't sue you for using wood Very nice holder, Naaman.

Probably not. I can explain that in spite of my comparatively young age by HC standards, I'm one of the more senile members of this site and I could have sworn I posted this in What Did You Do TODAY? Singed, Captain Would Probably Start A Housefire Building A CMoy, Esquire.

Can you explain them to me, too?

Made another one today for one of our Doctors who was SF. Going to have a holder for his green beret.

It fits! Well at least the arm does it slides nicely in the slot. The trick is the table is made for a 10.5” arm and putting a 9” arm on it. That made for some tricky math. I do need to make a change to the right angle DIN connector to make it a more favorable mating angle.. then hope it clears the bottom of the plinth. 🤞 is there some software that you can scan a diagram and and make very precise measurements? I transcribed this with a pair of calipers and a angle finder thing. It would be nicer to do that in the future with a few point and click operations

You only need to watch the first 2 1/2 minute.

Think about it. 95 year old Dick Van Dyke and his kitty. The British airship R33 in its hangar as it prepares for its first-ever flight at an aerodrome in Barlow, Yorkshire. 1919.

RETIRED!!!

I always do smd soldering with fin tip solder iron and after a long time of practicing I feel quite comfortable with that. I’ve tested with hot air station and with proper amount of solder paste on the pads and when using low air flow I managed to solder without components blowing away. And it’s a nice feeling seeing a component nicely aligning up on its pads. But I prefer the soldering iron technique. Me and solder paste don’t mix well. After a while the whole table is a mess and I even have solder paste on my nose. With some practice I’m sure everyone can do smd soldering, but it can be very frustrating initially.

I don't have any spare boards left, and I thought I had posted the gerbers in this thread, but I guess I hadn't. Here are the gerber files for the 2-pot (CP601/CP2500) and 3-pot (CP601/CP2500/Alps RK27) boards. Some place such as seeedstudio.com can run these for pretty cheap. Just give them the entire .zip file. TKD 4CP 2 pot final.zip TKD 4CP 3 pot final.zip

Panang-ish Curry, Take 2

one bridge if you are running a 3 wire transformer, 2 bridges if you are running a 4 wire transformer

Two 24v secondaries will work just fine for the desired 20VDC regulated output. You can go down to 20v since the GR's drop out voltage is quite low. That information is in the thread somewhere. To power the balanced Dynalo you'll need plenty of current so I would recommend at least 1.2A for each secondary and make sure you have enough heatsinks for the pass transistors.

If you can find a Fluke 187 or 189 or equivalent. They range from $200 up to $400. (yikes) If you want a 6.5 digit benchtop model, an Agilent 34401A is about the best you can get for the princely sum of about $400 up.. (tee hee). Don't look for the Agilent 3458A 8.5 digit multimeter.

Having worked in calibrating multimeters, among other things, your problem could be not enough resolution in the meter. Solution: Use the voltage range closest to the voltage being measured without going under the voltage being measured, or get a multimeter with a greater number of digits and the accuracy to match. To measure 15.00V with only 4 digit resolution gives only 2 decimal places. If the voltage is exactly 15.00V, the the reading could be anything from 14.99V to 15.01V depending on the resolution and the tolerance of the meter. With more digits and resolution you could get between 14.99999999V to 15.0000001V and still be 15.0000000V

1) 35V 581-TAP476M020CCS don't have a link for the 10uf 2) does not matter I used these 810-FK28C0G1H470J 3) I used these 505-MKS2-4.7/50/10 which are in stock and 50V, more than enough 4) I used these 505-MKS2.01/63/10

not an error. from the krell power supply, 10 ohm resistors from iec input ground to power suppy ground. not likely that anyone including me is going to use it though.

OOF. Started today by putting my foot through the arc of my prized Senn HD-590s and breaking it. I've had these things for over 15 years at this point and they're one of my favorite cans. While their presentation is deeply flawed, their nutball 3D imaging is one of my favorites for ambient. I've used them to prepare for my radio show for over a decade now. Of course it's my stupid fault for leaving them at the foot of my bed and not putting them on the shelf, but dead is dead. I do have a physically identical pair of HD-570s (which sound awful) and I did investigate taking both pairs apart to find donor parts but looking at the wiring that seems like a nearly impossible job.

Today I explained to my octogenarian mother the concepts of: Steampunk, Lil John, Crunk, Steamcrunk.