Do It Yourself

Here a video guide I made on how to make a LOD, hope it will be of some help to some.

Wasn't sure about putting this in the DIY or speaker forum, I suspect that nobody much minds anyway. I'm keen to put together a pair of big silly horns to go with my big silly stats. The obvious go-to options are the J-Low and the Kleinhorn, but tragically the Kleinhorn is a couple of inches too tall to fit in my room (and nothing like as simple to glue together). The standard J-Low is *small* enough to be built and then moved into the room through the door in one piece. But! I'm tempted by the notion of scaling the build up bigger and assembling it in the room (full height of an MDF sheet is 8 feet and my ceiling is about 9.5). Back of the envelope maths tells me that…

I had the fuse in my Klipsch iFi subwoofer blow. It's a 2A 125V slow blow fuse. Went to a couple Radioshacks and they only carry a 2A 250V fuse. Is it okay use that as a replacement? At the first the lady said, "Probably, but I wouldn't bet my life on it." Second store guy said "You only have to worry about over-wattage." My concern is that if something hits say... 200V and the fuse doesn't blow, will I end up damaging other components downstream?

Now this is my first time on this forum so hi everyone! Right so the main business is that I've always stuck with Skullcandy for comfort and style, but i always get the same problem over and over again(no matter what skullcandies they are!) and that is the cable goes dodgy up in the speaker can. this happened with 2 pairs of skullcrushers i bought and because i live in the UK their warranty doesn't extend to over here. bottom line is , I've soldered the cables back down in the can but the sound still cuts off regularly, is there a smarter way to reconnect the cables inside? or is it worth completely replacing the cables? only problem being is that the subwoofer is c…

So I have done a couple of soldering projects and both of them have not turned out so great. Just wondering if there is a good online guide or some place I can look to get some decent tips. I know a lot of it just has to do with practice, but I feel as though I am missing out on a lot of the subtle little things that will make soldering in general a lot easier on me. Any help is greatly appreciated.

OK, here's the schematic for my crossovers, including the APOC protection circuit (at the bottom), which is powered by my amp, and is not battery powered: http://www.bwgroup-support.com/downloads/techmanuals/bw/802-TM.pdf Photos of the crossover appear here: http://www.head-case.org/forums/do-yourself/9007-b-w-802-series-80-repair-5.html#post404176 and here: http://www.head-case.org/forums/do-yourself/9007-b-w-802-series-80-repair-3.html#post402352 and here: http://www.head-case.org/forums/do-yourself/9007-b-w-802-series-80-repair-5.html#post404221 I can see which points to connect on the PC board to bypass the relay; that's no big deal. My questi…

What is the replacement of the stable pressure pipe? Z4 Anybody know, thank you! STAX SRM-007TA Z3, Z4 Bose sealed diode，

Hi all, Im planning to build a blue hawaiii using the version 6s bipolar amp boards (kgbhver6sbipolar.zip) and the kgsshv dual 2 new power supply, (kgsshvpssicfetdual2new.zip) Gerber files are in https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B_iJFfZStuVhSE5nOHBVdTByR1k Has anyone tried this combination? will the psu provide sufficent current (the voltages are fine +-400V -+15V and 580V) Does anyone know what ratings I need for the transformer Im guessing for the secondaries 2x 6.3 5A (el34s draw about 1.5A each plus I want plenty of headroom) 2x 360V 230mA 18-0-18V 200mA Does the kgsshvpssicfetdual2new offer delayed start for…

I'm trying to make a Super Symmetry Dynahi (not dynalo) the best possible way. (without getting in the ridiculous). Anyone could direct me to the up to date gerber files, a BOM, any other resources are also appreciated. Also if any of you previous builders have recommendation on best practices and what to avoid while making the susy please share ! Thanks

I know that AMB has his Arduino-based system in the works, but I'm at a point in my EE education where I want to design something myself. I'm thinking of the following high-level scheme for a 4-input, 4-output audio switchbox. TI MSP430 microcontroller LCD display pushbuttons ADG1604 analog muxes My question to the other EEs on Head-Case is this: most all of the electronic switchers I've seen so far in the DIY realm use relays. Is there any major downside to using analog muxes that I haven't realized yet? Any reason that I shouldn't pursue this technique? I was wanting to try something that I haven't seen already, and this seems like a very do-able project for m…

Has anyone played with biasing capacitors that normally only see AC with a small amount of DC? I know some commercial speaker manufacturers have been doing this for a while (Vandersteen, Infinity, JBL, etc. comes to mind) usually using a battery and often accompanied by fancy marketing speak ("Charge-Coupled Linear Definition Dividing Network"). There is a lot of ink spilled on the subject, but what do you say?

Does anybody have a source? All I see so far is chassis mount.

I spent the better part of last weekend researching amps for a new pair of headphones. Reading other people's reviews and seeing their pics is fun, but figuring out whether the amp outputs enough power or if the damping factor is >= 8, well that's tedious. So what started as a few formulas on paper eventually (over the span of a week) turned into a website that calculates all this for you. It's a tool I built for myself, but I hope you'll find it useful too: www.audiobot9000.com

I built my original Dynahi 8 years ago and I'm going to re-case it to match my other builds and to fix some hum because the transformer is in the same case. I built a stereo version with two one channel boards powered by one PSU. I do not remember how I arrived at the value of the transformer I have now but I think it's 160 VA. The original BOM for the PSU says 250VA. Should I go up to the 250 VA spec'd in the BOM? Or is the 160 VA enough? I was thinking of trying to reduce the size of the transformer because of the hum but now I see I may have undersized it.

Of course it's not an exact clone due to several changes, but I was wondering what opinions of the project might be. Check it out here/. I'm considering taking that and doing some mods to it or taking the Buffalo and building a DAC around that, or maybe even the PCM1794 or PCM1704. I'm just throwing this out here to see what kind of opinion I get.

Or is there a replacement for it now?

I find myself in need of a sub - not room shaking high level bass but responsive low end. I have seen a few really good options about but they are all big cubes which have zero aesthetic acceptance from my better half. I thought of placing a low profile unit below the media rack and found a 3 inch long throw ( xmax still limited at 5.5mm ) and a horn loaded design which in theory should produce decent bass 25-100Hz. Anyone have any experience with subwoofers? My instinct tells me I need max surface area with large excursion to reliably produce decent low end but with the trend of things getting smaller in the modern world, I am open to accept that technology has succ…

I've decided to get serious about learning electronics. Tangent suggests this: The Art of Electronics 2/eby Paul Horowitz and Winfield Hill Cambridge University Press, 1989 1125 pages, hardcover ISBN 0-521-37095-7 Would you agree with this or would you suggest something else? I also plan on getting the Tube Amp text that Birgir recommends. I just need to find it again someplace in the DIY threads. Edit: Would it be "Valve Amplifiers, 4th Ed" by Morgan Jones Birgir? Or maybe "Building Valve Amplifiers" also by Morgan Jones?

Has any one of you done something like this, accommodating a pair of RCAs and a pair of XLRs, with the appropriate switching for these? I know I'll get told to just use the Neutrik or whatever RCA->XLR adapters for this, but I was thinking about doing up a PCB with a pair of something like the Neutrik NC3MAV/FAV and a pair of RCAs. Has anyone ever used the vertical Vampire RCAs (pcb2f/s)? They don't list any dimensions or PCB layout for these, but just wondering height-wise if these could work well? I had thought I would probably use relay switching instead of a mechanical switch, as the 4PDT are a PITA to wire up, but I suppose just going into a board with c…

Just got a chance to pull apart a pair of beyer T1 - a bit scary but pretty straight forward apart from the fact that the cable does not seem to be removable - had to cut it inside the cup to get it out. Here is a vid - may be handy if you are thinking of recabling or just fancy a peek inside Any questions - just ask http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XC72mCFOIWo

Ok don't start.. It's the only place nearby that stocks them. So anyone tried any of their crap? I see they have numerous irons from pistol grip 40W to Pencil 15W and adjustable butane 25-50W. Any recommendations on power/type etc for phone wires and circuit DIY work?

I will be ordering some front a back panels for a gamma 2, if anyone wants a pair, let me know, I can order and if we get to 5 there's 10% from FPE. The panels are for no digital outputs on the front panel, neither to have a mini out on the front panel for the y1 output. I can also share the FPE files for double checking or if you wish to order them yourself(if you're in the US, it might be cheaper) Here's a picture: ps: mods, if there is any problem with this, please remove it and let me know

I'm thinking of having some of the golden reference, dynalo, and alps quad pot boards made. The place I was thinking of using was seeedstudio.com Is there a better place for small runs? Their least expensive option is 1mm thickness, 1oz copper in green. Are those specs good enough?

Folks, I replaced all the electrolytic capacitors in my SRM-600. I can't say for sure if this has happened before, but this (photo) capacitor at 10V 4700uF is heating up. Not very much, around 55C. The headphones aren't plugged in. Can you tell me if this capacitor is in normal operation? Does it have to warm up? My SRM-600 for 230V voltage. First, I supplied a cheap Jamicon TKR472M1AJ26 capacitor. It was heating up.Then I decided to place EEUFR1A472L Panasonic Low ESR capacitor. However, it's warming up, too. I checked the diodes next to it - they're not broke. On the cap about 7V. Any other caps running cold. Only 4700uF/10V run…

I have some gear that I've had a long time and have not fired them up in a long time. 2 Adcom GFA-555s 1 Pair Martin Logan Monoliths They are all around 20+ years old. The amps have spent some time in the garage in South FL. Should I just recap the cross-overs in the spkrs and the amps? I'm afraid to power them up. The woofers need the surrounds rebuilt anyhow. Just worried that firing them up would take out the boards if the caps were bad. I think I know the answer but thought I would ask anyhow.