Do It Yourself

My previous query(ies) may have gotten buried. Given the somewhat religious fervor this topic seems to generate on other forums (without much technical justification for the most part; just assumption), I would like to know people's thoughts on this. My take from other reading seems to be if not shunt then you are a) a dumb ass, or b ) you just don't appreciate the best. I did read a critique/analysis on topic that discussed shunts presenting a more uniform impedance to the load, but then went into a discussion of a push-pull relationship via a shunt, versus a push only relationship with a linear reg. My specific interest is in a Salas shunt vs. GRLV plus for a phono…

So after seeing the 60 minutes last week, and already knowing all the liquid nitrogen cooking tricks, the chemist in me idecided to try my hand at the ravioli/caviar things with the sodium alginate. Yesterday's try was a complete disaster, but today came out almost perfect. As with all of this kind of stuff, technique is all important. Its helpful to have a stash of USP grade chemicals to pull this off... So i present mohito caviar, and mohito ravioli http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/mg1.jpg http://gilmore.chem.northwestern.edu/mg2.jpg Maybe we can have birgir show us how to do this...Correctly

Is there a demand for another run of the classic kgss board? Show of hands please. I for one love to build it, with the new sockets coming from Justine soon. Maybe makinging fully ccs. Naming it Kgss+ ??

My apologies if this is in the wrong forum. Years ago I came under the possession of a beat up pair of Realistic Nova Pro headphones at a garage sale for two dollars. Not in the best condition, but serviceable enough for use. For a while now in the absence of speakers and disposable funding, they've served not only as my main choice for computer audio but also the headphones I carry with me to provide personal audio on the go. In the past two months alone, I have opened them up multiple times to replace oxidized connections, resoldering almost every connection in the left can alone, to maintain their functionality. Yeah, even though they're collector's items of sort…

I'm venturing into cable making and I've found sources for everything I need, except good quality copper wire. What should I look for? Thanks in advance! .

Someone at HF posted about this. Check out about 3/4 of the way down the page for chassis with walnut: Hammond Mfg. - Small Enclosure Index

never mind

I'm in the process of putting together an Elenco XP-720K bench power supply kit. The kit has 3 ICs and 1 transistor in T0-220 package format. The instructions have the builder bending the legs 90 degrees and then mounting the devices on the heat sink. This seems normal enough. However, to hook wires up to the devices, the instructions instruct the builder to tin the wire and solder it to the correct leg. The instructions are here: Elenco XP-720K manual To me, this approach seems likely to result in a fragile device. Is this a normal thing to do? I assume that there are connectors I could use. Would it be better to use connectors. Or can you suggest yet anot…

In the past I've liked Neutrik's connectors best for RCA, but I haven't tried anything more boutique, yet. When it comes to binding posts, I'm pretty clueless on what is quality and what isn't. What is everyones' favorites?

Some guys insist MUSES 72320 is better than relay-based vol control, but I highly doubt that. Any tried that? (Let's ignore those CS3310 etc which are not so good, we only talk about that 72320)

ok, so I've been looking on and off for the last few days and I'm wondering what everyone else is using? I've looked at the amphenols, but what confuses me is the price point. I only need 6 connections and metal is not necesarry, but if the price is the same or close to plastic I'd go with that. Any reccomendations that Mouser would stock?

I've been getting back into guitar lately and think I'll want to put together an amp relatively soon to replace the cheap starter I'm using. Anyone have any ideas on a good one to put together?

Thought some of you guys may be interested in these if you had not seen them. http://toolguyd.com/...-storage-boxes/

GROUP BUY CLOSED 13/10-2015 Probing interest for doing GB on EL34(6CA7) NOS tubes. EL34(6CA7) XF2 MINIWATT NOS MADE BY MULLARD BLACKBURN UK Matched QuadsMade in 1966-68, at Mullard, Blackburn UKThe code on the tube is xf2 B7L3 showing this is manufactored by Mullard.Tubes has been tested on an Avo 163, and matched in quads. Price: 147USD/tube (depending on the exchange rate) ....we may obtain a small discount if reaching 40 in total The supplier guarantee that the tubes are original and is able to exchange a tube that turns out to be bad with a similar xf2 Mullard as he have several in stock. Show your interest in the GB sheet: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d…

Hasy anyone used the silver plated copper wire from navships on ebay? I just picked up 10 ft of shielded 3 conductor 24 AWG stranded SPC. I'm going to use it as hookup wire and maybe balanced interconnects. Has anyone had any experiences with it?

I was working on a project this weekend and realized that I had my camera downstairs in my DIY dungeon. It seemed like a good time to take a picture and start a thread like this, I figure no one should be ashamed of what their space looks like after they see mine. That's my nightmare, what's yours?

I ran across a weird problem the other night when using my Dynalo (headamp V2 board). I have an amb e22 DC offset protection circuit on the output, and when I have a set of headphones plugged in (T50rp fostex) and the volume turned all the way down, the protect circuit activates (cycles). Once I turn the volume up a little it stops doing that and works normally. Before I dig into it to try to figure out why, I just thought I'd ask here to see if this might just be normal? EDIT: answered that. My work dynalo does not do this, and it also has an e22 on it. Same phones (not the same pair) as well.

Hi all, I'm wanting to try building a cost effective ss amp but with opamps I can change out. Something with a small footprint. Is there any sort of Diy in the range of say $200?? THX

After almost ten years of loyal service, my KGST is starting to show signs of malfunction. Since last week I have a loud hum in the left amplifier channel. I replaced the tubes with another pair and readjusted the balance and offset. No hum could be heard and I could enjoy the music undisturbed again. The next day the hum unfortunately returned. Readjust everything and the hum was gone. After switching the amplifier off and on again, the hum returned. I have swapped the filaments, but that didn't solve the problem. I also left the gyro turned off, but that doesn't make any difference either. Hopefully someone has a good tip to try.

Anybody know the part number for the LEMO connector used in the stock Qualia 010 cable? Thanks.

I have the boards from Justin (KGSS and BH power supply). I'm having some trouble locating a BOM for both, a circuit diagram and a parts overlay image. So far, all I can find is this: http://gilmore2.chem.northwestern.edu/projects/showfile.php?file=gilmore2_prj.htm Any kind souls care to point me in the right direction?

Hi STAX guys, first of all greetings from Munich, Germany. Within the last weeks i read a lot in your huge STAX Threads and learned a lot about the moddings that can be done throughout the hole STAX product line. But to be honest I lost control about the information I got. That is the reason why I opened a new thread. I own a STAX SRM-1 MK2 (early A-Serie) (my father bought it in 1983 when I was born 😊 ) and it has the very early number A5327. In the PDF you can see the wiring diagram which is for units beginning with number A5494 (so different from mine). The unit was not in use within the last 20 years and I already replaced the electrolytic caps (Nichicon LKX…

I had the fuse in my Klipsch iFi subwoofer blow. It's a 2A 125V slow blow fuse. Went to a couple Radioshacks and they only carry a 2A 250V fuse. Is it okay use that as a replacement? At the first the lady said, "Probably, but I wouldn't bet my life on it." Second store guy said "You only have to worry about over-wattage." My concern is that if something hits say... 200V and the fuse doesn't blow, will I end up damaging other components downstream?

Cases and heatsinks are a problem for DIY builds. Front panels of thick alloy need machining and tapping as do heatsinks. These items are hard to get machined or the sizes the builder wants are not available. I devised a way of making cases, which eliminated these problems and made for easier case design, lower costs and quicker builds. Cases Made from sheet aluminium alloy of preferably 3mm so only single sheet of material needed. I get the parts laser cut by a company which will also supply the material. The case parts need holes to be countersunk where necessary and are then taken for surface finishing, (bead blasting and anodising in my cas…

i just found out there's a lot of similarities between this expensive amp and my 32 dollar headamp kits i built recently my question is: who copy who or it's just a Coincident ?