Do It Yourself

This thread is a follow on to the original SRX Revisited thread and the SRX-Plus Group Buy thread. As of 2024, I count at least 12 members with working SRX-Plus Amplifiers: JimL congo5 MLA Sorrodje mwl168 luca jose blueman2 Juggernaut1101 tomislavkufrin simmconn oldie ============================================================= Here is an initial Bill of Materials for the Amp. Please provide input on errors and omissions and I will update. This is my first ever electronics build, so bear with me as I learn the ropes. I am initially building a KGBH psu, so do not have the BOM fo…

Hey- Roundabouts how much would a balanced b22 cost to have built (by someone else, not me)? just a range, thanks.

I'm looking to get an inexpensive bench power supply, hopefully for less than $50. Can anybody recommend one. If not, please recommend the least expensive ps that will do the job. Thanks.

I will be ordering some front a back panels for a gamma 2, if anyone wants a pair, let me know, I can order and if we get to 5 there's 10% from FPE. The panels are for no digital outputs on the front panel, neither to have a mini out on the front panel for the y1 output. I can also share the FPE files for double checking or if you wish to order them yourself(if you're in the US, it might be cheaper) Here's a picture: ps: mods, if there is any problem with this, please remove it and let me know

So birgir asked for this one, but truth be told, i have been working on it for quite a while, and i have a working prototype. Specs: DC to 200khz +0, -.2 db Slew Rate >350 volts per microsecond Thd < .01% Voltage Peak to Peak, Stator to Stator 2950 http://gilmore.chem....n.edu/togte.pdf This is not for the faint of heart. The amp actually can go higher in voltage by a bit, but anything over +/-750 for the power supply gets to be Very difficult to regulate well. The +/-250 is actually resistor dividers off the +/-750 Its the only push pull fully dc coupled electrostatic amp that i know of Since this schematic i have replaced the 2s3840 with…

LOW cost way to enhance/upgrade your Grado's...never understood why plastic is used on the stock ones. http://www.ebay.com/itm/322220921728?ssPageName=STRK:MESINDXX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1436.l2649 I also wish Grado's earpads and headband were more comfy. Oh well, I DO love the Grado house sound!!

finally. higher signal to noise ratio, more than 110db. takes signals up to 20 volts peak to peak unbalanced, 40v peak to peak balanced. no input attenuator that adds noise for those stupidly high voltage dacs. ( requires 30v power supplies) (volume control in the middle) thd about .005% no feedback. work in progress 4 layer board. preamp2025f.PDF

I'm interested in getting a (relatively) inexpensive USB computer rig at the moment, so I'm looking for advice on what to pick. At the moment, I have three choices in mind, of which I'm considering two: 1) DAC/amp combo at http://www6.head-fi.org/forums/showthread.php?t=185569 Which seems to be a NOS TDA1543 DAC, maybe similar to the Monica II (?), plus a PINT, in one PCB & enclosure. 2) Alien DAC + Go-Vibe 5 With the Alien DAC being a simple USB PCM2702 DAC, and then the Go-Vibe 5 apparently being a simple LM6172 deal with a DC jack. 3) Total Bithead At the moment I think the others will be a better value. Since while I don't have any electronics sk…

I normally use FMs in most cases, but I see that they have come out with the FR series which are supposedly lower ESR, higher ripple current and longer life? Anyone use these, or are FM good enough? Or other? Use for now would be in PSU filtering for an I/V stage.

Just been auditioning the Asus Xonar Essence One, and they sent me some of these Muses 8820 op-amps to replace the stock 5532s. My, this amp/DAC sounds pretty damn good for $599, and with the Muses ($899 is the price with these installed) it sounds very nice. Articulate, punchy, smooove! I likey. Anyone used these parts? Linky

Looks like a DIY ESL? Best regards Moray James.

Ill be making a balanced ckkIII with usb opus dac in one chassis: ati 737-u I have drills and tools but can only do so much. The aluminum front panel is very thick and I won't be able to make indents for the two volume knobs, or even drill two basic holes for the neutrik combos. If anyone has tools to do this stuff, I would be willing to ship the case over. Ill discuss the actual details and sizes etc and the work to be done by aim or whatever. Besides the aluminum, I will have an acrylic sheet of similar thickness and two pieces of carbon fiber sandwitched together. Whatever is drilled on the aluminum will be done the same on the acrylic. The reason is, f…

Hi everyone, I really admire Dr. Gilmore's work, and ready to build the Krell Klone. I'm preparing for nearly a month. But my son (who is studying Shakespeare in the college), after Googling, told me, we can't just "see" the PCB and make a clone of it. (Cos the PCB has many layers, ususlly 2-4, diffrent layers has totally circuit, those copper layers are very well designed. And then he doubts Mr. Gilmore's Klone PCB image-files was drawn up on the computer after "eyeseeing".) In order to make a clone, we must destroy the PCB completely. He again told me: we have to remove all the components first and drop the PCB in a machine (can't remeber its name) and boil off the…

My beloved KGSSHV died, one channel went up in smoke. Tried to fix it but I cannot find the fault. Would you be willing to help troubleshoot? I’ll gladly pay for any help, want to get my amp back to work.

Well, I'm looking at finalizing a project board that is currently 6.17" x 7.3". The 6.17" needs to be the width of the case, and the 7.3" needs to be the depth. I've looked at a few vendors, as I'm trying to find a width that will accommodate a few of the Hammond 1455 type cases. The Hammond unfortunately is too shallow. I looked at Context Engineering and notice they have one that supports a 6" card width, that might be able to work, with a 8.5" standard depth. I poked around a bit at Teko as well. Anyways, I know a few of you have gone through this and was wondering if you might have a few suggestions? The main deal is I need to finalize the size of the board…

Hello, I'm looking to build a gamma2 DAC, but shipping costs from all the different vendors makes it very expensive here in europe. If anyone is getting parts for this soon, would it be possible to order double the parts and ship them to me? I'd be very thankful for this! Regards, Manuel

Hello Guys, I'm organizing a group buy for mini3 kits for europe. If you're anywhere else in the globe you're welcome too! Here's a link for the thread at HF:Mini3 group buy Manuel

A few of us over at another thread started by Blueman2 are contemplating getting SRX Plus PCBs fabricated. See this thread: http://www.head-case.org/forums/topic/12445-plan-to-build-srx-where-to-find-bom-boards/ Discussion of the SRX Plus design can be found here: http://www.head-case.org/forums/topic/11996-srx-revisited/ I've checked with PCBNET and we can get the cost the amp board to $25 if we order at least 15 boards. The board will be 2mm thick with 3 oz copper, the board size is 9.35" x 6.85" ( 2 channels on one board ). Kevin has recently updated the board with teardrops enabled. We have not decided on the PS to use yet. The SRX Plus needs a +/- 340VDC a…

The part tested ok and seems to a 15 volt reg mc 7915ctg mc 7815ctg Bottom right is where the reg were Below the vishey 4700uf caps

So...Black Gate, no more, alas. I noticed in the current issue of AudioXpress that ModWright now has their own line of caps (pdf download). And there were, of course, others -- ClarityCap, Jantzen, Mundorf, Authenticaps (askjanfirst.com?), Auricap (of course). Are any of these any good? Considering how highly ModWright is thought of in the modded source market, I was wondering if anyone has tried their caps yet? I've had vintage gear modified, and happened to have chosen black gates for it, and was quite happy with the results. Were I to do it again (and I probably will), what should be on my short list of caps to try? There is also the old stand-bys -- Panason…

This is probably going to seem like a go-to-Head-Fi thread, but I'm in a bit of a DIY and audio equipment rut, and I really trust Head-Case a whole lot more to get me out of it...... I've built myself DACs for home (Buffalo) and office (y2). I've got an M3 at the office with Audio Technica ESW9's and AD900's, I have the Exstata with SR-Lambdas at home, and I've built and sold a couple of Millett Hybrids. I'm pretty chuffed with all of this equipment, but feel that I'm still a long distance from my audio end-game and really want to keep doing more DIY. So where do I go now? I'd really like to challenge myself with something new to further my electronics skills, and keep…

My original Dynahi built in 2008 is still going strong and sounds just a good as they day I finished it. I replaced the 50K volume pot with a 10K as it should've been years ago. I believe KG said 50 was to high. With the 10K the amp sounds perfect but I think I've lost the use of the full range of the volume control. I only use the first 25% now where I used to use up to 50% or more with the 50K. Do you think it would be ok to switch to a 25K volume pot?

Hey everyone, I am in the process of developing a headphone for the Brazilian market, and thought I could use some help of the many knowledgeable people here, especially regarding the acoustics. Some background info on it: it's not going to be a high-end headphone, but one that has style, nicer choice of materials and decent sound quality, compatible with the $150-200 price that we hope to sell it for when it's done. I think something like an M50 but more stylish and with better materials would be a good analogy for what we're trying to achieve. I'm not sure it's possible, but that's our goal. The problem is that we're just a group of 4 people, with no enginee…

kgsshv-carbon with the sic-fets turned into 6ca7 was going to be next year

I got a set Sony ECR-500 Electrets from Fungi recently and decided to have a play Insides of ECR. Stripped and cleaned. Getting ready to whittle Whittled! Testing for fit. Parts for assembly. Cable in and felt lining. All assembled. Last shot. Fun little project for the weekend and sounds great.