Do It Yourself

Has anyone had any experiences with the Furutech FP-682 or FP-681 http://www.thecableco.com/product.php?id=4201 I'm wondering whether the rhodium or gold version of these are any improvement over the Neutrik or Switchcraft alternatives. This is me window shopping connectors for a balanced Beta22.

I've been getting back into guitar lately and think I'll want to put together an amp relatively soon to replace the cheap starter I'm using. Anyone have any ideas on a good one to put together?

Anyone knows a source for Sanyo Oscon capacitors (SMD type) in the US who sells to individuals? So far I found Newark/Farnell (very expensive because of 15$ for shipping from UK) and BD Enterprise (who do not have in stock, what I need). Any other US retailers?

That they might want to sell? I'm about to place an order at Parts Connexion, but they don't carry nylon sheath. I don't want to place an order at Take Five for four feet of braid (I'd probably end up buying a set of WBT plugs or something, too.) I need about 4 feet of 1/2 inch (this stuff: Take Five Audio - Canada's Online Source For High-End Audio, Parts and Accessories - Nylon Expandable Cable Sleeve ) for a half meter pair of interconnects. It doesn't have to black. Some other color or a cool pattern would be fine (or better) If anybody needs something from Parts Connexion that's not worth the shipping, holler and I'll add it to my order.

So I want to print a holder for some supercaps. Anybody here disign in 3d regularly?

Hello, I'm looking to build a gamma2 DAC, but shipping costs from all the different vendors makes it very expensive here in europe. If anyone is getting parts for this soon, would it be possible to order double the parts and ship them to me? I'd be very thankful for this! Regards, Manuel

Just curious if any of our excellent DIY gang are planning on building one of these? I have no immediate plans for one, but I'd love to see the build in progress if anyone is heading down that path.

33 Step 100K Stereo Volume Control tube Preamplifier - eBay (item 150423738955 end time Apr-13-10 19:23:07 PDT) No personal investment, but Craig wanted to know so I thought I'd ask

Has anyone ever reterminated a Cardas Sennheiser cable for the HD650? I'm thinking of buying the Fat Pipe version that HF sells in a 10ft length terminated with 1/4" TRS and then cutting that into a 5ft cable and re-terminating it in a 4 pin XLR. I want to know if the cable is laquered inside and if I have to melt the insulation off of it to solder the wires. Then I would make an extension cable and 4 pin XLR to 1/4" TRS SE adaptor with the rest

Anyone have a LM337T they could pop into an envelope and send to me? Hate to place and order for a $.50 part with $10 shipping.

I need to place an order to Farnell through Newark for some parts I cannot get here in the US (an Euro footprint PCB mount transformer). They have a $20 surcharge for this service. Would anyone else like some parts? I'm going to be ordering in the next day or so, so this will be quick. Some particularly worthwhile gems at Farnell are: LCR Components EXFS/HR box polystyrene caps, Newark part number 73K0558 ROE MKP1837 caps, Newark part number 26M1608 Just let me know here in this thread and we can work payment details out later...

Hey everyone, I was wondering if anyone on here makes wooden grado cups as I have a pair of Turbulence X drivers and am in need of some wooden cups to help complete my Magnums I'm building. I have very positive trader feedback on head-fi if anyone is willing to help me out. Cheers, Erich

Hi All... Anyone up for a group buy of IXCP10M90S ? This place below seems to have 146 of them and is in Florida. I know I need them for a bunch of projects and could wait but I'm thinking this might be good for everyone. Has anyone ordered from this place before? https://store.nacsemi.com/Products/Detail?part=IXCP10M90S&stock=XSJMZ0000019254&Mfr=IXYS&auth=n&utm_campaign=listing&utm_source=findchips&utm_medium=aggregator&utm_content=textlink&instock=y I'll run it like my others in the past. I'd say 7-10 people is all we need. I'm in for 30

Anyone willing to make a Xhadow XLR chassis mount for me ? I am thinking of an aluminium plate (the depth of a gender modules' thread), A threaded tunnel in its? centre to accept the gender module and two or more bolt/screw holes near the edge to allow attachment to a chassis. a disassembled XLR connector is shown http://www.takefiveaudio.com/mall/images/zoom/601_2.jpg the shiny piece with the white core and gold screws in the back of it is a gender module. If anyone spots a design flaw please point it out. I?ve e-mailed Chris Sommovigo at Xhadow and the edited highlights of his reply were : I?d like to get 4 of these mounts so I can have Xhadow XLR c…

I want to shoot the audio out of the USB port on my Apple Express instead of the optical out. You tell me how. And none of this "it can't be done" nonsense. Thank you for your assistance.

I have question about how to hold a rubber sealing ring in place when closing two halves of an electronic component. I'm trying to assemble a backup controller for my ebike. I want to match up the good front from one controller with the good back from another. There is a rubber seal to go between them. The problem I'm having is that the seal won't stay in its groove dry. Would it be ok to use something like a bit of Vaseline to hold the ring in place? Maybe something else?

The left earcup snapped off. You'll see from the pics that there is a sort of ring or collar made of black plastic around a brass/metal part. That black plastic piece snapped. I'm not sure how modular these things are, but it looks like some Krazy Glue might do the trick. I welcome your suggestions.

Hello all!! This is my first post here and was hoping that you DIY'ers can help out a noobie. This will be my first attempt at making a headphone cable and would like to know if this is the way to go about it... Unbalanced cable using a 1/4" TRS plug and 2 mini 4-pin XLR's for the headphone end, left and right. Is this the correct way for wire hookup? See diagram below....

I am not sure if these will live up to the title but it's the name of the speakers so I figured I would go with it. This will just be a down and dirty diary of the cabinet build for my soon to arrive Audio Nirvana Super 10 cast basket drivers. The box is about as simple as it gets. Rectangle with a couple holes cut in it for ports and mounting the drivers. I will be using primarily 3/4" (actually 11/16") Baltic birch and a bit of MDF. Here is all the wood cut up and ready for glue. All clamped up. As you can see I have some cheap ass Harbor Freight clamps that bow under the pressure. But they cost $1.50 so I can't complain.

Didn't see a thread topic relegated specifically to automated machinery specifically so I thought I'd make one. I'm working with another person in starting up a company that offers consulting services to optimize parts and layout production efficiencies, which includes a machine shop of our own. We're starting with conventional subtractive machining, but are looking to expand later with plasma/lasers, casting, plating, PCB layout and fabrication, etc. Currently we have a (cam operated) B&S screw machine with an old Bridgeport CNC coming in soon. We'll be looking to retrofit them both with open source CNC software and the proper motor drive modules pretty soon. Current…

I just happened upon this site, their cases are awesome, and they have a cool power distributor case thing too. http://www.hexateq-av.com/products.html

My parents have an old pair of B&W 802 Series 80 speakers. I've read that these are still considered pretty decent, but I'm concerned about the condition these are in. I'd like to replace parts like the binding posts and maybe parts of the crossovers. How difficult is this type of thing? Could an advanced beginner DIYer do it? The speakers look like this (these aren't the actual speakers):

So a Nugget B22 that I recently bought from penger died at a local meet yesterday - I walked up to the amp while someone else was listening (more likely trying to listen) and noticed that the amp was off, which seemed odd. The power switch did nothing and re-plugging the cord did nothing either. One day later the amp still doesn't power on so it wasn't temporary either. I verified this amp as working before the meet, and it worked when I set it up at the meet too, as I listened to some music for awhile on it. I hear absolutely no internal noises when depressing the power button and have no idea what caused this and no idea how to fix it either. (Edit: the power button …

I recently got a Nugget B22 that had been around so I gave it a good tightening and put it to work. Sounds great no issues there. However I have noticed that like the consumer PC speakers I have at work, it picks up Blackberry traffic and passes it through to the headphone. Has never happened to my KGSS in the four years I've had it. So the question. What causes that and is there any way to fix it?

I happened to be reading the Head-Fi DIY forum today for the first time in probably a month or more and came across a thread that pointed at Par-Metals site. The short of it is there appears to have been a semi-catestrophic fire at Par-Metals office/warehouse at the end of January which has currently halted all production of enclosures. I checked Antec's site (the one I actually care about) and they are very limited in what they have as of 2/4 but are saying that they'll be restocked in one to two months. Anyway, just figured I'd give folks a heads up. I can work around the delay on for my project so it's no big deal.