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I asked ABC to take a picture of the inside of the case back, as I was never able to get the damned thing open. The chrono paperwork shows a test date mid-December, '68, so Rolex was pumping them out as quickly as they were selling to dealers, back then. I thought this crowd might like the picture, especially given that it has marks from when watchmakers still marked case backs.

Looking good @JoaMat Here's the new schematic with the updated servo. It would be very much appreciated if some folks could check Kevin's boards against this schematic. Thanks EDIT: Updated schematic to match transistor values.

welcome back larry, you're looking happy and well.

Before this past Spring Break I hadn't been on a bicycle since fall of 2014, right before the big car accident. With my lung disease I'd go through a C-tank of oxygen within 15 miles of riding my Kona Nunu mtn bike on fairly flat ground with slight hills. Regardless, even with oxygen there was no hope of doing any riding in my hilly neighborhood at 6600 feet elevation, and especially no chance of making the 800 foot climb from the shopping center at the bottom of Cheyenne Mountain back up to my house (about 2.5 miles ride one way, with a grade ranging from 0 to 12% along the way). So we recently bought a pair of Trek eBikes so that I could ride in around our neighborhood whenever feasible, and so that my wife could keep up with me on the steep hills with her own eBike when she has time to ride. I bought the 17.5" Powerfly 7 mountain bike, but the smallest women's mountain bike was much too tall for my wife and she had to get the 14" Neko+ trail/hybrid. I tested the XM700+ and the Dual Sport+ first, but they didn't fit me as well as this one (and the one I got is sweet on single tracks unlike the others). The 29" tires roll over everything, and the Rock Shox Reba RL forks work great in combination with the Suntour NCX suspension seat post. The 203mm hydraulic front disk brakes are very impressive stoppers on fast downhill rides (up to 42.7mph so far), and the 75NM of torque lets me climb up very steep grades and trails. The bikes are class-1 pedal assist-only (no throttle), using torque sensing at the crank to multiply our effort, but with no assist past 20mph. We keep the assist levels as low as possible for the best workout and longest battery range. My bike adds power to the amount that I put into the crank in 4 levels: adds 55% more, 120%, 210%, or 300% more (up to 250W continuous or 500W peak), and my oxygen requirement has been dramatically reduced. My wife's bike does 50%, 100%, and 200%. Because of the mid-drive, the motor can benefit from the gear-set to make climbs easier. But because of the torque sensor, we still have to get some exercise in order to get the motor to help with climbs. On totally flat ground, any setting for assist makes pedaling effortless, which means I can leave my oxygen at home (not really true since my O2 sats drop to 85% just by walking). Range in the lowest assist mode on the easiest terrain is about 15 miles per 1 bar of battery (out of 5), or as much as 75 miles. On the harder rides around our neighborhood it drops 1/5 bars of battery every 6-8 miles, so my range would be closer to 30-40 miles. But I haven't ridden far enough to drain it more than 3 bars. I got an ECOhitch Invisi 1.25" hitch installed on my WRX (totally hidden behind the bumper) so we can take the bikes on a rack for holiday trips. We're going to Glenwood Springs CO this Memorial Day weekend, and we'll be able to ride the bike paths along the river in both directions. In the past we'd rent bikes and catch a shuttle to take us upriver so we could ride back downhill. Some parts would still be slightly uphill, and I'd need my oxygen despite the lower altitude. The plan is to ride out to the drop-off point and back, without needing the shuttle this time. Here's a pic of my wife with both bikes, then me, and the car with rack and her bike. (phone camera lens makes wife look tiny and me look huge because she's farther away behind the bikes and I'm closer and in front). I'd like to upgrade the bike rack to a 1up (or a Kuat NV base) at some point, because it's quite difficult to lift a 43 and 46 pound eBike onto the current rack.

So you don’t think I’m sleeping.

He was too fast for me to get a great cell phone shot, but we had the maiden voyage on the new road bike. He loves it, and I don't blame him. **BRENT**

I only tried to separate the AC heater as far as possible using the empty pins for spaces on the umbilical cord and as far away from other wires as well for the PSU cable wirings, I twisted the AC heater together with ground wire and the other wires twisted in pairs, and cover them in a braided shielding and a sleeve. You can also overkill this by using a huge aquarium hoses and cover these 3 to create spacer away from the rest of the bunch. I don't care for a flexible PsU cables, just as long as it work great. I did not use the hose though The main hum problems should be from the main AC that may get too close to other wires, especially input-output. Just as long as you manage to keep them away from those, you should be safe. That is just my experiences

Any chance to shave just a few more mm off the length of the tube input Carbon boards? Maybe on the left side the zener string has space to be moved and the traces adjusted a little? Then I would be able to squeeze it into this standard size ebay case, which has 300mm internal length: http://www.ebay.com/itm/122099811096

Great, a new version of offset servo. I can’t remember how many versions we have seen so far, but as I remember one of the first was found in Kerry’s KGST (and Stax T2 of course).

http://i.imgur.com/qZP9H7X.gifv

Kerry needs to publish the latest schematic with his servo. posted version does not have enough current to drive the opto. would still work without the servo

Depends on what your measurement requirements are. Do you need the square/triangle/sine capability of a function generator? Or is a low distortion sine more important (a function generator produces an approximate sine)? Manual set frequency and output level, or auto sweep (and hence linear or logarithmic sweep?). Then there are arbitrary waveform generators (AWG's) where you program them to produce any waveform you like. Whether a stand-alone box, or a PC-based generator again depends on what you need it for. Personally, I have a bit of a mix. For ppm level low distortion a Tek SG505. A Tek FG502 function generator. For high output an ancient HP 209A (see http://kenrockwell.com/audio/hp/209a.htm#perf ) and the workhorse is a Gould J3B.

Chicken tacos for lunch, more chicken for dinner, baby! 1st solo win and damn does it feel nice!

Yep, RIP. Great in a lot of roles. Tombstone was another one. I also recall some movie where he was a B52 pilot in a nuclear war, didn't drop his bombs and just flying around waiting for fuel to run out at the end (world destroyed). Dawn's Early Light or something like that? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

not to scale, carbon board is 5.45 x 4.72, tube output board is 5.6 x 5.52 newest versions of the boards

Deep breaths! Did you have a Santoku in each hand? That would have spooked the most hardened home invader!

Every now and then I receive emails where people want free review samples or some stupid shit like that. Now then this gem showed up today: I just like the blatant offer to offer promotion and clearly a glowing review for a measly 45% discount... My reply is below... Kevin told me not to be too harsh... I think it went ok.

You can't have it both ways. If you're writing reviews that are read by "thousands" and you are receiving discounts on the products you review, then that is a material connection to the manufacturer that must be disclosed. And you're not doing this for free. If you receive a discount, then you are in fact being compensated to the tune of the amount of said discount. People may be making buying decisions based on your reviews (for better or for worse). Accordingly, you have a duty to disclose anything that might affect the credibility of your review. Fortunately, this is all rather easily solved by simple, clear, conspicuous disclosure. When people balk at such disclosure, I get very, very suspicious about motives. But who cares what I think. The FTC on the other hand... I recommend familiarizing yourself with the FTC's 2009 guidelines on endorsements (attached hereto) and the recent guidance it disseminated regarding same. The FTC has made it very clear what the rules are and how to comply. I'll get you started. Example 7 concerning Section 255.5 seems particularly apt to me: Example 7 (section 255.5 disclosure of material connections): A college student who has earned a reputation as a video game expert maintains a personal weblog or “blog” where he posts entries about his gaming experiences. Readers of his blog frequently seek his opinions about video game hardware and software. As it has done in the past, the manufacturer of a newly released video game system sends the student a free copy of the system and asks him to write about it on his blog. He tests the new gaming system and writes a favorable review. Because his review is disseminated via a form of consumer-generated media in which his relationship to the advertiser is not inherently obvious, readers are unlikely to know that he has received the video game system free of charge in exchange for his review of the product, and given the value of the video game system, this fact likely would materially affect the credibility they attach to his endorsement. Accordingly, the blogger should clearly and conspicuously disclose that he received the gaming system free of charge. The manufacturer should advise him at the time it provides the gaming system that this connection should bedisclosed, and it should have procedures in place to try to monitor his postings for compliance. I've written reviews in the past. Like you, I also have a day job and do it for "fun." (Though I sometimes get paid cash money by the publication.) So these rules apply to me, as well. I try to disclose as much as possible any material connections; it is always on my mind for the simple reason that I don't enjoy misleading people. And I think I can probably improve on it, as well. Ignore this stuff at your peril. ETA: Also, I'm curious what your policy is regarding the resale of the gear on which you receive a discount. If/when you sell such gear, do you set the price based on retail or the price you paid? In other words, do you try to turn a profit? My personal policy is not to accept more than what I actually paid. However, I guess if it were some sort of collector's item that had an unforeseeable increase in value, I could see reaping the benefit of that. 091005revisedendorsementguides.pdf

I think that spritzer should expose this asshat over there, and he should be perma banned here. We have proof of his unsavory behavior, so why are we waiting to do what should be done? May the hammer of Birgir strike with great vengeance!

Swapped in 6CA7 from Electro harmonic and the sub-bass is better ..... Tubes rolling is fun and GG is amazing ! Thank you Kevin !!!! Can't thanks Kevin enough The LED switch is awesome from Joe and Ang, 2 tones, so white is my warmed up and warmed orange is operational

Shit....I write goodly....where's my discount? Well-played Birgir. Now watch to see if he tries to bad-mouth anything Mjolnir. You'd have a great message to post about it! I would assume he'd be smart enough NOT to do something as stupid as that....but one never knows.

Excellent (Mr. Burns's voice)

Perfection. I hope you posted on HF.

...?

That's understated?

I only have the iPhone and rather shitty light, but hopefully the fine polishing can be appreciated Did I ever post this pic when Jacob asked for it at some other thread? This forum software is kind of weird. I like what Omega is releasing, the 60th anniversary issue of the Speedmaster, Trainmaster and Seamaster looks great too

Alec is 12 today and asked for a "proper bike."

The tice has no problem hardening up..

What's in da baaaahhhhhxxxxx? Some parts. Darker blue than we thought. Happiest kid in the world in this moment. **BRENT**

Finally finished casing my Carbon. Apologize for the quality of the photos, the lighting condition isn't ideal. I went a different route - have the amp and PSU in separate chassis and set up the PSU as an "universal" PSU which I plan to use for the Carbon, the KGSSHV, the Blue Hawaii and, in the hopefully near future, the Grounded Grid. I used two off-the-shelf Antek transformers. The secondaries for the HV and filament are on the same 300VA transformer. The toggle switch acts as my manual HV delay and switches the HV secondaries which also have thermistors in series. The 7-pin connector houses the +/- 400VDC, +/- 18VDC and Bias supply. The 4-pin connector houses two sets of 6.3vac filament supply, each set has a 0.15R/5W resistor in series to lower the filament supply to around 6vac to help preserve the EL34 tube life. The amp chassis is a Mini Dissipante 3U and the PSU is a Galaxy 3U. Both with all aluminum panels.